Hi pool experts,
I'd like to ask for some advice on whether I'm all set with my remedy, or there's more to do? Here's the story...
Today I went to open my pool. SWG display showed strange characters, and at some point all diagnostic LEDs were on. Not consistent between power cycles. This did not happen the previous two years I've owned this pool/house at opening time.
Reading here that the display PCB connectors are a common failure point, I opened the enclosure and reseated it (cleaned the pins too). Here's where I found an automotive style fuse between the transformer and rectifier. All burned up.
Reseating the display PCB seemed to get the display working. Somehow this toasted fuse monstrosity was still passing current. I cut the burned ends of the yellow/orange wire and replaced it with a new fuse holder and connectors (15amp). I don't know what fuse value was there on the old one as it disintegrated as I tried to pry off the cap - it must have been cooking for a long time.
At this point the system would end up in Check Salt + Inspect Cell state. To get out of that, per the Hayward troubleshooting guide someone linked on this site, I cycled between the cell types (T-3 -> T-15) and ended back to T-3 which is where it was (I don't know what the cell type is for sure as it's an aftermarket one with about 7 plates). That didn't do it and I also had to reset the average salt level - again per the guide. That got me to steady green Power + Generating LEDs.
But the default display showed a small decimal like in in the picture for the SALT LEVEL. I haven't seen before (usually shows PPM like 3100, etc). So I thought maybe the salt level is very low and added a whole bunch of salt. Pool store tested it at 3800 (oops a bit high). Only later did I read that this is "metric" mode and I had to change it to US standard. Now the display shows the salt level in the expected format (and the temp in the diagnostic menu is in F not C). Live and learn.
So here are my questions:
Does it seem plausible that the system somehow got totally reset to where it ended up in metric mode?
Any idea what could have caused those wires/fuse to burn up? Interestingly the fuse didn't cleanly pop as it was still powering the board (to some extent - I did measure about 28v DC to the board out of the rectifiers).
Should this fuse even be here? I didn't see it in the picture or referenced in this wiki: Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
Are there any other recommendation on what to do in terms of settings or physical wiring for this thing beyond what I already did?
Thanks for reading that long post!
I'd like to ask for some advice on whether I'm all set with my remedy, or there's more to do? Here's the story...
Today I went to open my pool. SWG display showed strange characters, and at some point all diagnostic LEDs were on. Not consistent between power cycles. This did not happen the previous two years I've owned this pool/house at opening time.
Reading here that the display PCB connectors are a common failure point, I opened the enclosure and reseated it (cleaned the pins too). Here's where I found an automotive style fuse between the transformer and rectifier. All burned up.
Reseating the display PCB seemed to get the display working. Somehow this toasted fuse monstrosity was still passing current. I cut the burned ends of the yellow/orange wire and replaced it with a new fuse holder and connectors (15amp). I don't know what fuse value was there on the old one as it disintegrated as I tried to pry off the cap - it must have been cooking for a long time.
At this point the system would end up in Check Salt + Inspect Cell state. To get out of that, per the Hayward troubleshooting guide someone linked on this site, I cycled between the cell types (T-3 -> T-15) and ended back to T-3 which is where it was (I don't know what the cell type is for sure as it's an aftermarket one with about 7 plates). That didn't do it and I also had to reset the average salt level - again per the guide. That got me to steady green Power + Generating LEDs.
But the default display showed a small decimal like in in the picture for the SALT LEVEL. I haven't seen before (usually shows PPM like 3100, etc). So I thought maybe the salt level is very low and added a whole bunch of salt. Pool store tested it at 3800 (oops a bit high). Only later did I read that this is "metric" mode and I had to change it to US standard. Now the display shows the salt level in the expected format (and the temp in the diagnostic menu is in F not C). Live and learn.
So here are my questions:
Does it seem plausible that the system somehow got totally reset to where it ended up in metric mode?
Any idea what could have caused those wires/fuse to burn up? Interestingly the fuse didn't cleanly pop as it was still powering the board (to some extent - I did measure about 28v DC to the board out of the rectifiers).
Should this fuse even be here? I didn't see it in the picture or referenced in this wiki: Hayward Aquarite SWG - Further Reading
Are there any other recommendation on what to do in terms of settings or physical wiring for this thing beyond what I already did?
Thanks for reading that long post!
