Lived in this house less than a year. Pool was built around 1999. Has not been well taken care of i think, all the gelcoat is gone, surface feels rough below waterline and smooth above it. But thats another story. I have really high CYA. I tried using Bio-active CYA reducer from my local pool supplier. She suggested using 1/4 of a bag at a time to slowly bring it down as to not bottom it out with a full dose. I used a 1/4 the first day with no results. 1/4 next day with no results, 1/4 bag on the third day moved the needle a little but was barely noticable on test strip. used the last of that bag on the 4th day and was still high but much more noticeable change. waited a few day and CYA was back up so i went and got another bag and said screw it, dumped about half of it in. next day barely noticeable difference, next day dumped other half bag in and finally got it down where i thought it needed to be. 2 day later it was back sky high off the chart. Any idea what could be going on ? Only other issue to my knowledge is the poo leaks but i dont lose any water. There is a place in the shallow end that has been repaired in the past. the pool floor is uneven and feels like its got bubbles of water under it maybe. when you walk around if you kind of work those bubbles towards the repaired area you can see cloudy water shoot into the pool water from where there is an obvious crack. In the deep end of the pool s a place that is bulged out and cracked also. if you push on the sidewall of pool above this area you can see dirty water shoot into the pool water from this crack also. I've obviously got issues but I hardly ever have to add water.
Lowered CYA it came right back up
- Thread starter bssford460
- Start date
The only way to lower cya is to exchange or replace water. I haven't read a post of any successful product to lower it. The only winner is the pool store selling it.
Test strips and pool store tests are notoriously inaccurate. It is hard to tell what your cyc reading really is. I used them too and chased my tail with the wildly varying results. The experts here will only give detailed advice when you have a proper test kit. You can get one at tftestkits.net or buy the k2006C online.
Good luck!
Test strips and pool store tests are notoriously inaccurate. It is hard to tell what your cyc reading really is. I used them too and chased my tail with the wildly varying results. The experts here will only give detailed advice when you have a proper test kit. You can get one at tftestkits.net or buy the k2006C online.
Good luck!
Last edited by a moderator:
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,508
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Welcome to TFP.
You have been pool stored by pool store tests and magic potions. We believe you have to do your own water testing using a reliable test kit. We recommend the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. See Test Kits Compared
The Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer helps make testing easier and more accurate.
Get your test kit, test your water, post the results and we will help you figure out the next steps.
In the meantime you can read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and
www.troublefreepool.com
You have been pool stored by pool store tests and magic potions. We believe you have to do your own water testing using a reliable test kit. We recommend the TF-100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C. See Test Kits Compared
The Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer helps make testing easier and more accurate.
Get your test kit, test your water, post the results and we will help you figure out the next steps.
In the meantime you can read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and
What is TFPC?
We believe any pool owner can achieve and maintain safe, crystal clear pool water, by using the science-based, Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC) methodology.
www.troublefreepool.com
Welcome to the forum! We all at one point in our pool life have been down the road of using chemicals that are not really needed. The CYA reducer really does not work as you can see and the company who manufacturers it should discontinue making the product. As mentioned, water replacement is a must.
One thing to note is that you have not posted any pool test results. You can still manage your pool with higher CYA levels, all you will have to do is keep your FC higher. Eventually, over a 12 month period you will lose some CYA. Please post some results so we can go from there. The HTH 6 way test strips are not reliable. Thank you.
One thing to note is that you have not posted any pool test results. You can still manage your pool with higher CYA levels, all you will have to do is keep your FC higher. Eventually, over a 12 month period you will lose some CYA. Please post some results so we can go from there. The HTH 6 way test strips are not reliable. Thank you.
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This is the crossroads of pool care. What the pool store sold you didn’t work, so their next step is to have you treat phosphates or TDS with some sort of clarifloccushockicide and then do the cya treatment again.
Take the money you were going to give the pool store and buy a nice test kit as suggested above. Taking full control of your pool is very rewarding and surprisingly cheap once to get the proper education.
Take the money you were going to give the pool store and buy a nice test kit as suggested above. Taking full control of your pool is very rewarding and surprisingly cheap once to get the proper education.
I like that word!
I ordered the Taylor kit. I'll post up some results as soon as I can
Well my test kit arrived. Only problem was it wasnt my test kit. It was a pool ladder extension kit. Have to RMA this and they'll send the kit I ordered. Hopefully they can get it to me quickly....
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,508
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
I got my test kit today. I went with the taylor kit "k-2006c". I wish i had gone the tf-100 kit because this kit wasn't filled properly. it came with 2 bottles of r-0007 and did not have a bottle of r-0008. So I was unable to do an alkalinity test. test results below. Bare with me This was my first time and I'm not 100% I did everything right.
53 drops at .2 =10.6 FC
4 drops at .2 = .8 CC
Ph was less than 7.0 took 15 drops to get it to 7.4 I have 1/2 of a 25 lb bucket of PH plus on hand.
was not able to do alkilinity test. but used the strips i had to just see what it was and showed less than 40, maybe less than 20,
11 drops for hardness test =110ppm
and for the CYA which is what what I originally came here for it was off the chart. see picture below.
Disclaimer. This is probably the most out of whack my chemicals have been this season. I've been working 12 hours the last 2 weeks and havent done anything with it other than run the polaris cleaner in anticipation of getting this kit and getting on the right track.
My biggest concern right now is being told to drain 1/2 the pool and replace the water to lower the CYA as much as it needs to be lowerd and then turn around in 2 weeks have the CYA back off the charts. That is a concern because when i drained the pool last winter to winderize it I really drained it farther than i meant to and had to add alot of water this spring to get it back full. and it doesnt seem like doing that had any effect on the CYA at the time.
53 drops at .2 =10.6 FC
4 drops at .2 = .8 CC
Ph was less than 7.0 took 15 drops to get it to 7.4 I have 1/2 of a 25 lb bucket of PH plus on hand.
was not able to do alkilinity test. but used the strips i had to just see what it was and showed less than 40, maybe less than 20,
11 drops for hardness test =110ppm
and for the CYA which is what what I originally came here for it was off the chart. see picture below.
Disclaimer. This is probably the most out of whack my chemicals have been this season. I've been working 12 hours the last 2 weeks and havent done anything with it other than run the polaris cleaner in anticipation of getting this kit and getting on the right track.
My biggest concern right now is being told to drain 1/2 the pool and replace the water to lower the CYA as much as it needs to be lowerd and then turn around in 2 weeks have the CYA back off the charts. That is a concern because when i drained the pool last winter to winderize it I really drained it farther than i meant to and had to add alot of water this spring to get it back full. and it doesnt seem like doing that had any effect on the CYA at the time.
Also. They are sending me a bottle of the r-0008 for free to replace what wasnt included in the kit.
If you replace the water to lower the CYA as needed, and then don't add any products that add CYA, the CYA will NOT go back up.
Given the very low pH and TA and the high CYA, I can only assume you are using trichlor tablets and/or dichlor shock powder to add your FC. That is a no-no
Stick with liquid chlorine (or cal-hypo if your CH is low) to add FC after your CYA is in range
Given the very low pH and TA and the high CYA, I can only assume you are using trichlor tablets and/or dichlor shock powder to add your FC. That is a no-no
Stick with liquid chlorine (or cal-hypo if your CH is low) to add FC after your CYA is in range
Oh, and use 10ml of water for the FAS-DPD chlorine test so that each drop is 0.5ppm. That is precise enough and will save you a lot of reagent and counting
Where did you order the test kit that you were missing reagents. I would contact the manufacturer and if from Amazon, file a complaint and return it. Order the TF-100 kit as it is a better kit to work with. Thanks!
So can someone lay out a step by step plan to get me back on the right track. As far as what to buy, where to buy it from and how much to use. I'm assuming the consensus is to stop using the chlorine tablet thing now that takes the 3 inch pucks? There is an Aqua Rite chlorine generator back there that used to be used. the the turbo cell (t-cell-15) looks to have struck by lightening. Is there a way i can test the control box with out buying a new cell to see if it works and possibly just replace the cell?
Correct. No more pucks because your CYA is already too high.
@JamesW, do you know of a way to test the Aquarite control box?
Are you keeping the K-2006C? If so, there is nothing else you need to buy right now. The SpeedStir helps with the testing and if you get the SWG going again, then you will want the K-1766 Taylor salt test kit.
@JamesW, do you know of a way to test the Aquarite control box?
Are you keeping the K-2006C? If so, there is nothing else you need to buy right now. The SpeedStir helps with the testing and if you get the SWG going again, then you will want the K-1766 Taylor salt test kit.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,508
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
How do you stabilize your pool ...
1. Chlorinate your pool using liquid chlorine. Find a source for 10% chlorine or plain bleach with no additives. Not Clorox, not splash-less, no fragrances. Add liquid chlorine daily to maintain your FC following the FC/CYA Levels
2. Stop using all tablets. They are adding to your CYA problem and pH problems.
3. Figure out what your CYA is. Follow the directions below including step 8 if your CYA is 90 or above.
www.troublefreepool.com
4. Begin using PoolMath to log all tests and chemical additions. Set it to share your logs.
Do those 4 steps and let us see your tests for a few days and we can figure out the next steps.
For your lighting struck SWG I would open up the control panel and examine the boards. If show any signs of burning or over heatinsg - black or brown marks - then best for yout o get an entire new SWG setup.
1. Chlorinate your pool using liquid chlorine. Find a source for 10% chlorine or plain bleach with no additives. Not Clorox, not splash-less, no fragrances. Add liquid chlorine daily to maintain your FC following the FC/CYA Levels
2. Stop using all tablets. They are adding to your CYA problem and pH problems.
3. Figure out what your CYA is. Follow the directions below including step 8 if your CYA is 90 or above.
CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test
Cyanuric Acid (CYA) is the chemical name for what is commonly referred to as Stabilizer … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com
4. Begin using PoolMath to log all tests and chemical additions. Set it to share your logs.
Do those 4 steps and let us see your tests for a few days and we can figure out the next steps.
For your lighting struck SWG I would open up the control panel and examine the boards. If show any signs of burning or over heatinsg - black or brown marks - then best for yout o get an entire new SWG setup.