Low pH Issue

[cheapjack]

Hello,
I am brand new pool owner and this is my first pool. Thank you all for your help.

So I bought a house and did not get to the pool till after a month without any pool service. I checked the chemistry and found the pH to be very low (6.8). I added 15 lbs. of soda ash in one go and have not seen the needle move on the pH. The soda ash has not completely dissolved after 5 days. I keep brushing the pool to stir it up and it is dissolving with every passing day. But the fact is that the pH is not rising. What am I doing wrong?

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35,000 gallons In Ground w/ Plaster Lining
Filters: 2 x Jandy CV580 Cartridge Filters (one each for main pump and waterfall)
Pumps: 1 x Jandy VSSHP270AUT 2.7HP Variable Speed Pump (main filter), 1 x Jandy FHPM2.0 2HP Single Speed Pump (waterfall filter)
Pool Vacuum: Polaris Vac-Sweep + AOSmith Century 3/4HP Pump, Chlorinator: Nature2 Fusion InGround Chlorinator

 

[Texas Splash]

Good morning and welcome! I suppose our first question should be ... how are you testing the water? Do you have a TF-100 or Taylor K-2006C test kit? Test Kits Compared After that, post a full set of water results. Wed like to see everything to get a good idea of what's happening. We'll be able to help you more from there. Signature looks good, thanks!
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
FC/CYA Levels

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

Confirm you have your pump running for how long a day?

Turn on your waterfall. The aeration should raise your pH.

Like Splash said we need a complete set of test results. Especially TA for this problem.

I suggest you review ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

 

[cheapjack]

Thank you for your prompt request.
I am currently using 5-in-1 test strips simply because I don't want to invest in a $100 test kit until I can convince myself that "I got this!". Hope you understand.
I'm currently running only the main 2.7HP VSD pump @ 1750 RPM for 8 hrs/day. Not running waterfall.
My test strip results are as follows:
Total Hardness: 250
TC: 1
FC: 1
pH: 6.8
TA: 120
Stabilizer: 0
I believe I need to balance pH before working on the FC and Stabilizer. That's why I haven't touched them yet.

Thanks again for your inputs.

 

[mknauss]

As we do not recognize test strip data as accurate and reliable, we will not provide specific guidance based on them.

If you wish to use the test strip data, your pH needs to come up to 7.2 using aeration or a small amount of borax. Your pool needs chlorine to get to 3 ppm FC, and your CYA needs to come up to 30 ppm to start.

 

[JamesW]

The chemistry readings are probably not accurate. You should not make adjustments based on those results.

 

[Texas Splash]

I don't want to invest in a $100 test kit until I can convince myself that "I got this!".

We've all been there. But the test strips and free store testing will only leave you more frustrated and wondering if you can test water. The answer - you CAN! The TF-100 is extremely easy to use, reliable, and YOU will know for sure what your numbers are. Unlike other household repairs that we can't do on our own and wonder if we're getting quality service, this one you can do. Do a quick YouTube for TF-100 testing and you can see the videos for yourself. With that kit, the rest is much more clear & easy.

 

[ajw22]

Thank you for your prompt request.
I am currently using 5-in-1 test strips simply because I don't want to invest in a $100 test kit until I can convince myself that "I got this!". Hope you understand.

You will not ever "get this" if you are not using the right tools.

You are trying to learn to do a professional job with a toy kit. Get the TF-100 Test Kits with the Speedstir Magnetic Stirrer A job is so much easier to do with the right tools. Hope you understand.

I'm currently running only the main 2.7HP VSD pump @ 1750 RPM for 8 hrs/day. Not running waterfall.

When you are trying to get chemicals dissolved keep your pump running 24/7 until they are completely mixed.

Running your waterfall will help raise your pH due to aeration. Read the section on Raising pH in Recommended Pool Chemicals - Trouble Free Pool

I believe I need to balance pH before working on the FC and Stabilizer. That's why I haven't touched them yet.

Your belief is incorrect. Please read ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Pool School - Trouble Free Pool

pH, FC and CYA can all be worked on at the same time. You can't get reliable pH readings if FC is above 10 but that is not your situation.

 

[borjis]

The Taylor K2006C will also work and I think it costs a bit less.
But again, as others have said, to make your pool balanced, you have to know where it's at.
"Guess Strips" - as we call them, are not be capable of accurate reading.

 

[mknauss]

The Taylor K2006C will also work and I think it costs a bit less.

The C version is normally ~$100. The TF100 is $70.

 

[ajw22]

The Taylor K2006C will also work and I think it costs a bit less.

The Taylor K-2006 costs less then the TF-100. That is not the "C" model and contains a small amount of reagents that you use up quickly and then spend more moeny buying refills.

The TF-100 is a better value then the K2006 or the K-2006C. See Test Kits Compared

 

[borjis]

oh oops. Thought the 2006C was a bit less. my bad.

 

[cheapjack]

Alright... I'll put my trust in your guys and order the kit. May God (and you all) be with me!

 

[borjis]

You won't regret it.