Low GPM to SPA after some changes in piping.

[ajw22]

The diverter valve can be reused by using 2” pipe which slips on the outside. The 1 1/2” pipe can be cut flush and most of the inside reamed out with a hubsaver. Read PVC Repair - Further Reading

I would plumb that section from the diverter into the ground with 2” pipe.

 

[mas985]

I will check the valve in AM.

What’s the best way to flush the jets? I opened them and ran the SPA but I did not see any improvements. GPM stayed at 28-30

Did you remove the jet nozzles with a socket wrench?

Can the glued parts can be undone?

Not very easily.

 

[MadRed]

Did you remove the jet nozzles with a socket wrench?


Not very easily.

I removed the plastic ring that holds the semi-circular plastic nozzle. That is all there to remove. 3 jets feel like they have pressure and 1 has very little to no pressure.

Another thing is that the air valve on top of the spa acts weird with a set of jets that has one working and one not working. When I block the working jet with my hand, instead of more water coming out the other jet, the water comes out of the the air intake valve on the top.

 

[mas985]

I removed the plastic ring that holds the semi-circular plastic nozzle. That is all there to remove. 3 jets feel like they have pressure and 1 has very little to no pressure.

That is the eyeball, not the nozzle. The nozzle is deep within the spa wall and can only be removed with a long 9/16" socket wrench.

Another thing is that the air valve on top of the spa acts weird with a set of jets that has one working and one not working. When I block the working jet with my hand, instead of more water coming out the other jet, the water comes out of the the air intake valve on the top.

That is consistent with an object blocking the water path. Remove the nozzles and flush.

 

[MadRed]

That is the eyeball, not the nozzle. The nozzle is deep within the spa wall and can only be removed with a long 9/16" socket wrench.

View attachment 579444


That is consistent with an object blocking the water path. Remove the nozzles and flush.

How tricky is it to perform this task? How hard is it to remove the nozzle and then put it back. Is there a chance for a mistake? Like dropping it.

Also, how to I drain the spa and keep it drained?

 

[mas985]

It isn't too bad. If the fitting drops off the socket wrench, that is not an issue because when you turn the pump on, it will blow the nozzles out of the tube.

To drain the spa, you want the spa/pool suction valve to be set to spa only and the return valve to pool only.

If you have actuators on those valves, you can use the switches on the bottom of the actuator to set the valve positions.

When you run the pump, water will drain out of the spa into the pool.

When the water has drained out of the spa, set the suction valve back to pool only.

This should prevent water from backfilling into the spa.

 

[MadRed]

Thank a lot. I will try that tomorrow.

 

[RDspaguy]

These guys seem to be covering the bases pretty well. I will add that blocking a jet on a 4 jet system can pressurize the air intake even if no other jet is blocked, so while this points to an obstruction it is not certain in every case.
Inground spas, especially older ones, are often plumbed with "butterfly" jets that are in series, so each jet gets less pressure than the one before. If looped this is lessened but not eliminated. So less pressure at a given jet does not always indicate a problem, though in this case is highly suspicious.
That is a poor plumbing job for sure, but is nothing compared to the backpressure of the filter. You should not even notice a difference from that.
The check valve lid is clear so you can see it open with flow. Is it opening completely? A drip of glue can mess those up alot.
And why do you have a check valve there? Is the equipment below water level?

 

[MadRed]

These guys seem to be covering the bases pretty well. I will add that blocking a jet on a 4 jet system can pressurize the air intake even if no other jet is blocked, so while this points to an obstruction it is not certain in every case.
Inground spas, especially older ones, are often plumbed with "butterfly" jets that are in series, so each jet gets less pressure than the one before. If looped this is lessened but not eliminated. So less pressure at a given jet does not always indicate a problem, though in this case is highly suspicious.
That is a poor plumbing job for sure, but is nothing compared to the backpressure of the filter. You should not even notice a difference from that.
The check valve lid is clear so you can see it open with flow. Is it opening completely? A drip of glue can mess those up alot.
And why do you have a check valve there? Is the equipment below water level?

No equipment after check valve, just jets.

They re-piped it by making straight pipe down. Still with check valve. The flow improved by 10-15%. Then we did find a piece of plastic stuck in one of the jets. Now, with both items corrected everything seems to work.

I’m still puzzled by the fact that this awesome 3hp pump has to run close to full speed to push 35 GMP while in space mode. The power and pressure seem to be low to normal so not sure I can process it in my mind how it all works.