Looking for a new pool in Toronto Canada for 2021 season - advice needed

Randy, my turn to not derail this thread, but which model is that you posted with the Ocean Blue G3?

Also, which lid is that with the auto cover? Looks like a tan one from one of the pictures.
 
The pool is an Olympia. The tan you see in the picture is tan fabric color, if you look closer you can see the grey of the lid too. This was actually our first pool with the zero reveal and needless to say, there was a learning process when it came to how the deck interface was handled. It can be difficult to make the concrete decking match up to the lid look nice AND be strong, as to prevent chipping.
 
  • Like
Reactions: gingrbredman
We have an Ultimate 35 with a cover that was installed a few years ago. I second the idea of either stone or tiles on the spa edge. Our builder required us to put something there if we wanted a cover, otherwise the wet cover tends to stick to the fiberglass there and puts excess strain when opening or closing. I would think smaller tile or stone would help reduce this as well. Some other issues to consider is to make sure the edges and especially the corners are somewhat rounded and not sharp. Unless you have a cover pump on the spa, water will collect here and put extra stress on those portions. I make an effort to be sure to get water off the spa quickly and never open the cover with water sitting in the spa area. Not sure if you plan on using yours as a winter cover, but I made a PVC structure to help keep the spa area raised and minimize water pooling during the winter. I still go out regularly to clear it, but it does help. I have also been experimenting with something to put on the corners during the winter to help protect the cover. I have been trying different baby proofing items, but have not found anything that last all winter and is still removable in the summer. You can see my last attempt in the picture.

We love our cover and would not have a pool without one. I would never consider leaving it partially open though as this would be more of a hazard than not having a cover at all. It would be too easy to get under the cover and not be able to come up.

As for the water feature, I am not sure about the specific one you are asking about, but we do have a fountain. You just have to be sure that it does not run when the cover is closed (I think the newer automation may even have a way to interlock them). We do drain the fountain after every use or rain so that the water in it does not get funky since it does not circulate unless it is on.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0230.jpg
    IMG_0230.jpg
    640.9 KB · Views: 13
  • IMG_1876.JPG
    IMG_1876.JPG
    327.5 KB · Views: 13
Last edited:
Our current light does not work... thinking of goign LED because a house we rented had an LED color changing light in it and it was fun and cool. but $500.... insane.

and the whole "oh it's the cord that costs the money" is total BS. copper isn't that costly. it's just pool monopoly.
 
I just repair my light at the beginning of the year. The transformer was bad and also the bulb was burned out. Both are easily replaceable and are not hideously expensive. I thought about replacing the incandescent bulb with a LED but when the cheap way.
 
We just bought new pool
And spa lights. Directly from the pool contractor supply store so no extra mark up from pool builder. $1200 for the pair. Crazy but I love them. I can watch the colors change all night...
 
Hi,

I'm in Ontario Canada and getting my Leisure Pool Ultimate 35 installed this April.

I was going to put in a fiberglass tanning ledge but pandemic made everything out of stock so I'm looking to custom build one using cinderblock, basecrete concrete sealer, and epoxy pool paint.

Everything is straight forward except the foundation:

You see that tanning ledge has a spillover option I need the edge close to or almost at the edge of pool.

My custom design calls for a 6" concrete foundation pad. However, to get the spillover to work, the wall block has to sit on top where the pool coping goes.

I was advised by my custom tanning ledge guy not to put the concrete block on pool coping.

Few questions

1. pour the concrete pad all the way to paver coping edge. For the section that has the tanning ledge, no coping. Is this ugly? I see most tanning ledge design still has coping underneath for uniform look.
2. The concern is frost heave. If I place 6 concrete sonotube beyond frost depth pillar underneath concrete pad, will this prevent heaving?
3. Any idea on how is these spill over typically built?
 

Attachments

  • 1.PNG
    1.PNG
    109.7 KB · Views: 11
  • 2.PNG
    2.PNG
    37.8 KB · Views: 11
  • 3.PNG
    3.PNG
    57.8 KB · Views: 12
  • viking-pools-tanning-ledges-semicircle-3.jpg
    viking-pools-tanning-ledges-semicircle-3.jpg
    60.8 KB · Views: 12
  • the-mercury-tanning-ledge-by-the-pool-doctor-003.jpg
    the-mercury-tanning-ledge-by-the-pool-doctor-003.jpg
    210.8 KB · Views: 12
You don't want to put any weight on the fiberglass pool edge or tie your spa wall to the pool. You need to come up with a more sophisticated design that cantilevers the spa ledge over the pool wall.

The fiberglass pools with raised spas I have seen have a minimal rise that lets the spillover sit right over the pool wall.

Look at the pics here...

 
  • Like
Reactions: johnkim2020
All your pics are concrete pools. In order to use concrete for the tanning ledge it would be self supporting structure like a stress deck application much smaller scale. There isnt an option for a shell with a built on shelf? Last thing I would do is use epoxy pool paint. Couple years at best and its toast especially in shallow water
 
  • Like
Reactions: johnkim2020

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
All your pics are concrete pools. In order to use concrete for the tanning ledge it would be self supporting structure like a stress deck application much smaller scale. There isnt an option for a shell with a built on shelf? Last thing I would do is use epoxy pool paint. Couple years at best and its toast especially in shallow water


You don't want to put any weight on the fiberglass pool edge or tie your spa wall to the pool. You need to come up with a more sophisticated design that cantilevers the spa ledge over the pool wall.

The fiberglass pools with raised spas I have seen have a minimal rise that lets the spillover sit right over the pool wall.

Look at the pics here...



Thanks Jimmythegreek and ajw22! I've attached 3 photos of the fiberglass tanning ledge of Leisure pool from The Topaz - Rectangle Tanning Ledge - Leisure Pools USA


They're able to sit at at the pool edge. Is it because it is fiberglass shell?

If concrete version doesn't work, How feasible if I build the tanning ledge using a vinyl liner?
 

Attachments

  • leisure1.jpg
    leisure1.jpg
    140.8 KB · Views: 13
  • leisure2.jpg
    leisure2.jpg
    123.3 KB · Views: 13
  • leisure3.jpg
    leisure3.jpg
    158.2 KB · Views: 14
Would this work:

1. Make a 16" faux wall extension that is not structural to the tanning ledge. This faux wall will sit on top of coping and pool edge. The red part is the faux wall
2. The real weight bearing tanning ledge will be 16" from the pool edge (white wall).
3. Water will spillover for a longer distance
 

Attachments

  • faux1.PNG
    faux1.PNG
    92.1 KB · Views: 5
  • faux2.PNG
    faux2.PNG
    85.1 KB · Views: 5
  • faux3.PNG
    faux3.PNG
    43.6 KB · Views: 5
How far back ordered is a fiberglass unit? Realistically even an april start is going to take 2 months overall that part can be last on the list. Remember different areas call for different build design. Pics from online usually are non freeze areas with palm trees they just slap them on. I have 42" frost here and and use a very deep base of 3/4 DGA, usually 24"+ and I add concrete piers against pool panel area because of the disturbed virgin ground in my overdig.
 
  • Like
Reactions: johnkim2020
How far back ordered is a fiberglass unit? Realistically even an april start is going to take 2 months overall that part can be last on the list. Remember different areas call for different build design. Pics from online usually are non freeze areas with palm trees they just slap them on. I have 42" frost here and and use a very deep base of 3/4 DGA, usually 24"+ and I add concrete piers against pool panel area because of the disturbed virgin ground in my overdig.
Hi Jimmy,

Thanks.

The backorder is until August but I'm not counting on it. Everything is delayed it seems. My pool was suppose to be in Nov 2020 but got delayed until April 2021...

If you don't mind, can you comment on my updated design at Post #5 Need help with Custom Tanning ledge for fiberglass pool
 
Anything you build really should be shotcrete and monolithically poured. I personally would never do cinderblock and paint. Not having the walls and floor tied together will eventually lead to separation even slightly that will crack a painted finish. It's fine to put some weight behind the shell you just need to reinforce it with piers then have a front sitting on the collar. The collar just needs sized and support above standard. You can make anything you can draw up if the structure and footings are appropriate. You mentioned a tanning ledge guy. Do you have a PB or who is building this?
 
Last edited:
Hi,

I have a leisure pool ultimate 35' coming soon.

I wanted some water feature and asked the builder to add two 1.5" supply line and two 1.5" suction line.

He asked for $2800. Is this reasonable? It seems ridiculously high just run some PVC pipes.
 
Hi,

I have a new Leisure pool ultimate 35' being installed soon. I got a quote from my pool builder for Cover Star Eclipse automatic pool cover $18000 installed.


Is this reasonable or too high? Does my pool installed have to install the cover or I can get other builders to do it ?
 
My new pool will have Jandy equipment and automation costs $3800 quoted.

How hard is it to install automation equipment myself? I'm pretty handy with electrical and familiar with basic plumbing.

Or I should just bite the bullet and get it installed when the pool is built?
 
Just my opinion... I am also handy with electrical & familiar with basic plumbing, and I wouldn't try it. It's not basic, and if you haven't done it before, it could be challenging.
 
  • Like
Reactions: johnkim2020
You want the suction lines connected to skimmers cut into the shell? You want the return lines connected to fittings cut into the shell? Do trenches need to be dug for the pipes to be buried? Do the pipes need to be connected to valves at the equipment pad?

What is the full scope of work you have asked for?
 
  • Like
Reactions: johnkim2020

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.