Lightning Strike knocks out pool equipment + more inside

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Jimrahbe said:
Get,

The main problem I have is that almost everything is second or third hand. I've been told, or my brother's boss' pool.. etc.

I want to see some proof. Some scientific reasoning as to why it would happen.

I have a rent house pool where we installed flagstone coping but was warned by the contractor not to use saltwater. The pool was a standard tablet fed chlorine pool for about 3 years before I converted it to a saltwater pool. During those 3 years, as a standard chlorine pool, the flagstone continually shed thin layer of sand. You could easily pick out the bad stones from the good stones, often right next to one another. Fast forward to now and things are exactly the same. The flagstone still sheds, the bad stones are still bad, and the good stones are still good. The amount of shedding has not changed at all. The point is that the saltwater has made zero difference. The problem is the quality of the stone.

Really that is the overall problem. How would you or anyone else know the "quality" of their stone. I see your dilemma, as who would want to go with saltwater not knowing for sure that their pool would not be damaged.

Another thing is that saltwater is blamed for almost every owner induced failure, no matter what it is . If it failed, it has to be because of that evil saltwater. It could not possible be me, the owner, it has to that saltwater.

I can only go by my experience, and I have had zero failures on three saltwater pools here in the DFW area. If I built 10 more pools, they would all be saltwater pools.

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Thanks Jim!
 
getalegup said:
should have said pH but apparently there is more to the issue like the type of coping, etc.
Click to expand...
To follow up to @Jimrahbe point, the second or third person may have said PH was the issue, but the issue is still the coping, not the water. Those that will say the coping has fallen apart because of the salt water blame the salt in the water. Not the PH, TA, or anything else, they just say the coping must be failing because it there is such a high concentration of salt in the water. Salt destroys stone they will say, so you can not possibly add the convivence of a SWCG because it will continue to destroy the coping.

Take a regular liquid chlorine pool. When properly maintained, the chemistry in the water is exactly the same as a "salt pool", with the exception of a little less salinity. Probably a couple hundred ppm less over time. That exact same pool water, with the exact same coping will have the exact same result. The flagstone will flake. But how could this be? This is not a salt water pool, so they say it must be the quality of the flagstone.

So we have lower quality stone as the reason for the liquid chlorine pool, and we have the salt water as the reason for the SWCG pool for the flaking flagstone. Maybe a longer rant than needed, but my point is the overall convenience of the SWCG to produce the chlorine you need, will have the same result on your coping as not having one, so why not go with the option that saves you time from lugging jugs of chlorine all the time?
 
ajw22 said:
It can be a long day by two people. But that is effectively 3 man days.

It also depends how clean they do the install. A sloppy install can be thrown on the wall faster.

Takes an hour or so to unbox everything and examine it and make sure there is no damage.

Installing the pump is an hour or two.

All the existing wiring in the Aqualink needs to be figured out and labeled before it is disconnected.

CBs have to be mounted in the IntelliCenter and wired internally.

Wires may not reach the IntelliCenter box locations and need to be spliced.

Once the IntelliCenter is live the setup programming can take an hour or more.

Not having seen your current setup I can't judge if it will be simple or difficult. If the guy looked at it I would think he factored what he saw into his quote.
Click to expand...
The guy said it will be done in about 5 hours.

His quote was confusing vs what he said on the phone. He does installs and answers calls. He was on side when he called me back this AM.

CMP Powerclean Ultra In Line Chlorinator w/ parts instal & labor $373.54

Pentair Intelliflo i2 VS (011060?) w/ parts instal & labor $3,025.22 (vs $1599 on online)

Pentair IntelliCenter I5PS w/o SCG $5,092.00 (vs $? online, I don't know how to price this)

Tax $700.49 (vs no tax or shipping online)

Total $9191.25

Includes: new unions, new wiring,
Not included: new GFCI, surge protection ??
We get the $300 rebate for the pump.
We get the 3 year Pentair warranty.
Half down now and rest upon completion.
We are considering changing from BBB method to in-line chlorinator and have the wrong coping for SCG.

I would post pics of my setup but I get security error?

Here's my previous post which has all the pics:

Lightning Strike knocks out pool equipment + more inside

I've just lost use of my pool equipment after a lightning strike. No lights will come on my control panel. The pump won't come on. My indoor control panel has no power. The poolside remote has not power. I have done a little sleuthing with the help of some computer engineer friends. We've...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

I wondering if buying online myself and paying for installation to earn the better warranty would work. I could upgrade more components.

It seems the IntelliCenter i5PS is newer and more future proof and more reliable than ScreenLogic.
I'm not sure the differences in the i2 VS vs a newer pump.
 
www.pentair.com

IntelliFlo® i1 and i2 Variable Speed and Pool Pump

The IntelliFlo i1 & i2 pumps move water more efficiently at lower speeds. They provide increased energy savings versus conventional pumps. Shop here!
www.pentair.com www.pentair.com

IntelliFlo i2 Variable Speed Pool pump is hydraulically engineered to provide maximum performance on a 15-amp breaker. It has a maximum rating of 11.8 amps, which makes retrofits easier in applications that are limited by existing wire gauge size.

What is the voltage and amps of your pump CB?
 
Looking at the pics of your Aqualink in your other thread I see you do not have a Load Center with CBs. That greatly simplifies the install.
 
ajw22 said:
www.pentair.com

IntelliFlo® i1 and i2 Variable Speed and Pool Pump

The IntelliFlo i1 & i2 pumps move water more efficiently at lower speeds. They provide increased energy savings versus conventional pumps. Shop here!
www.pentair.com www.pentair.com

IntelliFlo i2 Variable Speed Pool pump is hydraulically engineered to provide maximum performance on a 15-amp breaker. It has a maximum rating of 11.8 amps, which makes retrofits easier in applications that are limited by existing wire gauge size.

What is the voltage and amps of your pump CB?
Click to expand...
220V and 60 Amp

I can take better pics and try uploading from my phone
 
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getalegup said:
What

What is a load center with circuit breaker?
Click to expand...
Compare the bottom of my Aqualink that has a Load Center with circuit breakers…

full


to yours that only has relays…

img_2454-jpeg.453582
 

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ajw22 said:
Compare the bottom of my Aqualink that has a Load Center with circuit breakers…

full


to yours that only has relays…

img_2454-jpeg.453582
Click to expand...
I get it. Is there some advantage to onboard CBs? My main power panel with all my pool CBs are about 5 feet away. Is it possible I don't need them on a newer controller?

Any advice on the order we install everything? If I am waiting for my insurance money, could I install pump first and send only 120V to it? The pump could be programmed to go on and off at the pump, right?
 
Last edited:
getalegup said:
I get it. Is there some advantage to onboard CBs?
Click to expand...

Simplifies the electrical wiring.

Makes it easier to trace an electrical problem with it all in one cabinet.

getalegup said:
My main power panel with all my pool CBs are about 5 feet away. Is it possible I don't need them on a newer controller?
Click to expand...

The installer is probably leaving the CBs as is which reduces his install time.

Find out which IntelliCenter enclosure you will get:
522043 - Common Load Center w/ IntelliCenter wiring Label), without IntelliChlor Transformer. Includes 5 relays.

522044 - Common Power Center w/ IntelliCenter wiring Label), without IntelliChlor Transformer. Includes 5 relays.

The 522044 Power Center is like your Aqualink box.

getalegup said:
Any advice on the order we install everything? If I am waiting for my insurance money, could I install pump first and send only 120V to it? The pump could be programmed to go on and off at the pump, right?
Click to expand...

Post #46 you said...
getalegup said:
220V and 60 Amp
Click to expand...

Do you have 120V for your pump or 240V?

The IntelliFlo pumps can be controlled by their own control panel until you have the IntelliCenter installed.
 
Get,

i1 and i2 were designed for be used in places that have no 240 volts or low current 240 volts.

There is no great difference between VS or VSF IntelliFlo pumps.

The IntelliFlo3 is new. It has a larger basket and larger input and output plumbing. It also can be controlled by WiFi as well as RS-485. It has no (standard) display, but does have the ability to accept a special relay card that can be used to control other things. Most of these things are not needed if you have an IntelliCenter.

You can get anything you want, as it is your pool, but I suggest that you not get the i1 or 2.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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