Leak in Pool, Will be away for Six Weeks, What to Do?

Jump to latest Follow Reply
L

Liquid

Silver Supporter
May 11, 2023
22
Jacksonville, FL
Pool Size
4240
Surface
Fiberglass
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Aquapure 700
I just had a leak detection company out and found that one of the returns is leaking. It seems to be about 3/4 inch a day. Another problem is that upon startup of the pump in the morning it sucks in air, which I relieve from the filter on a daily basis. I'm having difficulty finding someone to take on a fiberglass pool leak repair job and am certain I won't find someone to do it in the next three weeks before I leave for a month and a half.

I would normally have a weekly pool service when I'm away and I could probably convince a neighbor to come over once a week to add water, but what do I do? I'm concerned that the pump may end up running dry so thought about just leaving the pump off until I return and have the pool service manage chlorine, but they didn't recommend it. Anyone have any suggestions on what to do while away?
 
You could add a top off/float temporarily or even leave a hose on a trickle while you're gone? Set pump to run only a couple hours per day maybe?
 
If pool is only 4000 gallons and water is cheap where you're at...just drain it down and leave it till you get back
 
What is your CYA level?

Raise FC up to 50% of CYA level, shut off the pump, and enjoy your trip. Deal with the pool and the leak when you return.
 
uraceulose said:
If pool is only 4000 gallons and water is cheap where you're at...just drain it down and leave it till you get back
Click to expand...
You do not drain down a fiberglass pool, ever. Especially in Florida.
 
I did not know that rule. When whoever repairs his leak in the return...should it be drained down or is it best bet to repair with the pool full or drain down below the return fitting?
 
uraceulose said:
I did not know that rule. When whoever repairs his leak in the return...should it be drained down or is it best bet to repair with the pool full or drain down below the return fitting?
Click to expand...

The one repair company who did speak to me said they would have to brace the entire inside of the pool and potentially open up a relief hole in the bottom of the pool so it doesn't pop up. I probably need a new gel coat too, so not sure how that would work.
 
ajw22 said:
Raise FC up to 50% of CYA level, shut off the pump, and enjoy your trip. Deal with the pool and the leak when you return.
Click to expand...

So I understand, with my CYA at 70 I should bring the chlorine up to 7.5? I will have a maintenance company come weekly, I'm assuming that's what I should have them target for chlorine.

Anything else I should consider, with the pump going to be off for six weeks?
 

Attachments

  • CYA.png
    CYA.png
    6.5 KB · Views: 2
You can probably plug the return line - is there a valve you can turn to remove that line from service (shut off a valve so it isn't open to the system)? Maybe add a pool plug to help isolate it?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
TFP is a registered 501(c)3 non-profit that is maintained by user donations.

All of our content is free of advertisements.

Please consider donating at:

www.troublefreepool.com

Become a TFP Supporter

Help Support TFP Trouble Free Pool is run by a dedicated group of volunteers that … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Liquid said:
So I understand, with my CYA at 70 I should bring the chlorine up to 7.5?
Click to expand...

50% of 70 is 35.

Liquid said:
I will have a maintenance company come weekly, I'm assuming that's what I should have them target for chlorine.
Click to expand...

If the maintenance company follows instructions, leave the pump off, and have them raise the FC back to 30 with liquid chlorine and stir it in with a pool brush.

Liquid said:
Anything else I should consider, with the pump going to be off for six weeks?
Click to expand...
Enjoy your tip and plan to deal with your pool problems when you return.
 
I thought that chlorine high might damage the gel coat, but either way I think I need a new one regardless. I didn't know if leaving stagnant water in the pump, etc. would grow algae or cause some other harm that I'm not aware of.
 
Liquid said:
I thought that chlorine high might damage the gel coat, but either way I think I need a new one regardless. I didn't know if leaving stagnant water in the pump, etc. would grow algae or cause some other harm that I'm not aware of.
Click to expand...
That level of FC and CYA will not damage anything.

You may end up with algae when you return and need to follow the SLAM Process
 
^^^ What Marty said. I got rid of my two main drains and don't miss them at all. Closing off that drain would be much simpler than a leak repair, and maybe that is something you could get done before you leave. There are lots of SCUBA divers in Florida!

For now, here's an alternative... are you comfortable with tech? Do you have a WiFi network? You could install a WiFi pool cam and a WiFi valve and keep an eye on the pool yourself while away. Open and close the valve from your cell phone, watch your pool level on your phone, too. These are conveniences that you'll use in the future, too. So for about $100 you'll have an immediate solution, and then a nice convenience from now on. I have both on my pool, and they work great.

Then set the pump to run at low-ish speed (just enough to keep the SWG happy) for 24 hours a day, so it never shuts off, and solve the air-in-the-pump problem until your return. Many here run their pump 24/7 for various reasons. It's quite common.

WiFi gizmos are not 100% reliable, so if you can task your neighbor to be "on call" just in case your system fails for some reason, then that would be an added safeguard, but wouldn't require anything of him unless something goes kerflooey. Set the outlet hose/pipe of the WiFi valve above your water level, in view of your camera, and you can verify visually that it turns on and off. Should the system fail, you'll see it immediately, or if the cam goes dark, or whatever, then it's neighbor to the rescue. Set up a schedule with him when he is most likely to be home, and top off your pool during those times.

As long as your SWG is reliable (and you'll need to turn it down to run 24/7), you stand a good chance of coming home to a perfectly sound, clean, clear pool...

Here's an example of a WiFi valve:
 
Last edited:
PS. In case it wasn't clear, regarding Allen's comment about not draining a fiberglass pool, or the contractor's bit about the shoring... The water is part of the structure of a fiberglass pool (any pool). If the level gets to low, you'd be missing the part of your pool's structure that is holding the surrounding soil at bay (especially when that soil is saturated). With the water too low, the pool could collapse. James' comment about the sump tube is another, different but related danger. With the water too low, and the surrounding water table in the soil too high, the pool could act like a boat and just float right out of the ground. That can even happen with concrete pools. You don't empty any pool unless you're willing to accept those risks, and know how to mitigate them properly. (It's why the contractor wanted to drill a hole in the bottom of your pool. A boat with a hole in it won't float!)

Family’s pool pops out of ground after it’s drained


The Policy wording stipulates what is Covered and Not covered under Buildings Cover | Insurance Chat
 
Last edited:
  • Wow
Reactions: JamesW

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
You must log in or register to reply here.
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.
Top Bottom
Back
Jump to latest Follow Reply