Las Vegas Build - It's like butter

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Florida?? Seriously? There was nothing closer? Does Florida even have stones? It's highest point is like 50ft above sea level. It's mostly a sand bar...

You could have come here. We've got like a bazillion rocks in AZ and a big hole in the ground that everyone likes to go visit...
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Florida?? Seriously? There was nothing closer? Does Florida even have stones? It's highest point is like 50ft above sea level. It's mostly a sand bar...

You could have come here. We've got like a bazillion rocks in AZ and a big hole in the ground that everyone likes to go visit...
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Ha! right?! but alas... Coral Stone, or Shell Stone... it comes from various parts of the world that like to ship in to Florida... It's not a west coast item. Ironically, it is best suited for our temperate area... it does not get hot and looks way cool. Coquina Stone PTrading
 
daddymack said:
Ha! right?! but alas... Coral Stone, or Shell Stone... it comes from various parts of the world that like to ship in to Florida... It's not a west coast item. Ironically, it is best suited for our temperate area... it does not get hot and looks way cool. Coquina Stone PTrading
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Very nice. Which product did you go with? (Sorry if you've already mentioned it somewhere)
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Very nice. Which product did you go with? (Sorry if you've already mentioned it somewhere)
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Calypso Coral for the Coping - Just doing 16x24 pavers... cheaper than the coping. I will just have the corners rounded off. It works better with my raised beam.

The balance of the decking is Calypso Coral Select White....

The Calypso Coral is a tan color... so the coping and topping on the raised beam will be a bit darker than the balance of the decking.

They do have versions that are smoother and less rustic, and a version that is very rustic... this falls in between. These are naturally non-slip, even with being sealed (they recommend Dry-Treat)

 
Slick (in a non-slip sense of the word)! Dry-Treat 40sk is a great product; someday I will likely use it to seal my flagstone. Sealing by dip coating before installation is more thorough than after sealing but my understanding is it lengthens the install process (someone has to dip coat every piece of stone and let them dry. Either way, it'll look fabulous.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Slick (in a non-slip sense of the word)! Dry-Treat 40sk is a great product; someday I will likely use it to seal my flagstone. Sealing by dip coating before installation is more thorough than after sealing but my understanding is it lengthens the install process (someone has to dip coat every piece of stone and let them dry. Either way, it'll look fabulous.
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The nice part about the coral stone is that it really doesn't need to be sealed. It is unaffected by salt water, as it is literally born in a salt water environment. The sealing is really recommended in more humid environments (like Florida) to keep the stone from developing algae, etc. The one thing you cannot do, however, is powerwash. You will open up the holes and pores... so they recommend light brushing.. soap and water.
 
New Update...

Stone (and coping) for backyard was shipped Monday and I will have it on Friday! Also, my glass tile came in, and I have all the ledger stone and a mosaic I decided to do... (no mermaids, although I had friends rally for them). In any event the tile guys have started.. and should be ready to plaster by Thursday or Friday of next week. So, water by next weekend possibly. I was going to fill by hoses, but I think it will be faster to have it filled by a company that comes and hooks up to the hydrant in front of my property. The good thing about this too is that I will get an accurate number for gallons, since it is metered. The cost for the water is $150 (or less depending on miles) to come out, and 1 cent a gallon. I estimate my pool to be around 14K Gallons... so the total fill should be less than $300.00. Well worth it to know exact size of pool and for it to be filled pronto! I just have to give them a days notice if possible.

I broke ground on July 24, so I believe I am five weeks in... not bad considering unexpected delays with inspection due to power feed to my house and tile manufacturer not sending out the glass tile from Florida until we kindly reminded them.... and my own delays, trying to get best shipping quote from Florida for the Stone (took a week to get a decent quote - roughly 2K for the shipping but I am getting it in 4 days total shipping).

In any event, I have my conditional final to plaster and fill (final when the power feed line is moved sometime in the future) and the tile is being set... a couple pics of starting tile from one of my cameras set up to watch when I am not there :)

[URL=http://s81.photobucket.com/user/daddymacklv/media/Pool%20-%202016/IMG_0349.png.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s81.photobucket.com/user/daddymacklv/media/Pool%20-%202016/IMG_0350.png.html][/URL]
 
Who's responsible for water balance after plaster? Are you doing the plaster startup or the plastering company?

There are different methods for starting plaster but the one recommended by TFP is the bicarbonate startup process. It's more involved than traditional startup methods but it does yield a higher quality finish.

Pool School has articles on it.
 
JoyfulNoise said:
Who's responsible for water balance after plaster? Are you doing the plaster startup or the plastering company?

There are different methods for starting plaster but the one recommended by TFP is the bicarbonate startup process. It's more involved than traditional startup methods but it does yield a higher quality finish.

Pool School has articles on it.
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That would be me, I had asked what startup would be best, never really got an answer. As to the plaster I am willing not to do acid wash of plaster, assuming that eventually the shiny stuff in the Quartscape Reflections will eventually come out and be less streaky...

As to the Bicarb startup.. Our water naturally meets the requirements in the Sticky... Our TA is above 200 and our PH is well below 8.3... So do I need to prep the water at all, it looks like my water alone with the addition of liquid Chlorine may be all I need to do?

FC 1.0 (basic test kit 1.2)
CC 0
TC 1.0
TA 290
PH 7.2 (basic test kit)
CH 325
 

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Perhaps others more skilled in plaster startups than I can chime in but...

If you do the bicarbonate start you are going to have to follow the TA and pH very closely because the pH is going to want to rise very quickly with a fresh plaster surface. I believe others have done the bicarbonate startup with a gradual reduction in TA over time as well as close control over pH. The chemistry of the water you put in your pool will change day to day (and even by the hour) so you'll need to monitor it closely.

My guess is you're going to need a lot of acid and chlorinating liquid on hand to keep everything balanced.
 
daddymack said:
Me too!! thank you! I should have tiles next week and pavers week after (coming from Florida)... so in the meantime, I just wait... I called for the final electrical and pre-plaster inspection today... I have plenty of time to fix anything that may be wrong.. if it passes, bonus! lol

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That's pretty cool stuff.. and looks great! I am still debating... I have until the pavers arrive...lol
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Start a new thread on the bicarbonate startup if you want some help. Jaime's thread was so long and detailed, I can't imagine there are any questions you can think of that weren't addressed in hers. I think I still have blisters from the typing.

Your water is close to ideal. Fill the pool up, get the pumps running and post some numbers; we'll go from there. I no longer recommend chemical additions while the pool is filling... Not that you would need to anyway since your water already meets the criteria.

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I'm a huge advocate of using trichlor during the startup. It takes the whole FC/CYA levels out of the equation, provides consistent pH lowering, introduces chlorine and CYA slowly and allows you to focus on the pH and TA without getting overwhelmed with everything else.
 
bdavis466 said:
Start a new thread on the bicarbonate startup if you want some help. Jaime's thread was so long and detailed, I can't imagine there are any questions you can think of that weren't addressed in hers. I think I still have blisters from the typing.

Your water is close to ideal. Fill the pool up, get the pumps running and post some numbers; we'll go from there. I no longer recommend chemical additions while the pool is filling... Not that you would need to anyway since your water already meets the criteria.

- - - Updated - - -

I'm a huge advocate of using trichlor during the startup. It takes the whole FC/CYA levels out of the equation, provides consistent pH lowering, introduces chlorine and CYA slowly and allows you to focus on the pH and TA without getting overwhelmed with everything else.
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Thanks!! I will ... Hopefully a week from Saturday! thank you.
 

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