Jandy Truclear Help!

drewthat

Member
Jun 14, 2024
13
new Jersey
Pool Size
17500
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Jandy Truclear / Ei
I have 1 year old 17500k IGP with sand filter, heat pump and Jandy truclear SWG. I recently experienced white calcium flakes at the bottom of return jets. I’ve seen tons of posts and pretty much narrowed it down to high calcium hadness. Last reading was 255ppm with PH @ 7.8. That is not my concern though. I was reading that the swg should shut off maybe 20 min prior before pump shuts off to cool it down. They are both on same timer so I was going to just drop my VSP pump low so the generator reads no flow. Well I had shut it to 0% and the generator was still generating chlorine and it started boiling in the salt cell. I immediately shut of the generator. It should give me the “no flow” error code but I was afraid to let it go more than 10 seconds. There is no external flow switch on the truclear. Could that mean the board is bad? It is my second board and the pool is only 15 months old.
 
What is your TA?

Your problem is not high CH. 255ppm is not high.

What VSP do you have?

Nowhere does it say a SWG needs any cool down before the pump stops. That is for a gas heater.

If you have a Jandy VS pump you should be wired for flow monitoring.

The Jandy TruClear chlorination system with Firmware Revision F or later, can monitor the state of the Jandy Variable Speed Pump so that the TruClear does not operate if the Jandy Variable Speed Pump is not running.

A four wire RS-485 cable is connected between the TruClear Power Pack and the Jandy VS Pump to ensure that the chlorinator only operates when the pool pump is running. With this connection no timer for the TruClear is required.

Once connection has been made, the TruClear User Interface (UI) should display “Standby #”.

The Jandy TruClear uses a gas sensor to shutdown the cell when there is inadequate water flow instead of a flow switch. The gas sensor uses a conductivity sensor through the water that gas accumulation breaks.

 
What is your TA?

Your problem is not high CH. 255ppm is not high.

What VSP do you have?

Nowhere does it say a SWG needs any cool down before the pump stops. That is for a gas heater.

If you have a Jandy VS pump you should be wired for flow monitoring.

The Jandy TruClear chlorination system with Firmware Revision F or later, can monitor the state of the Jandy Variable Speed Pump so that the TruClear does not operate if the Jandy Variable Speed Pump is not running.

A four wire RS-485 cable is connected between the TruClear Power Pack and the Jandy VS Pump to ensure that the chlorinator only operates when the pool pump is running. With this connection no timer for the TruClear is required.

Once connection has been made, the TruClear User Interface (UI) should display “Standby #”.

The Jandy TruClear uses a gas sensor to shutdown the cell when there is inadequate water flow instead of a flow switch. The gas sensor uses a conductivity sensor through the water that gas accumulation breaks.

I have a Hayward xe pump. My TA is 100. So when it builds with gas it will shut off? I only waited like 10 seconds and kind of got nervous and turned the pump back on.
 
My TA is 100.

Lower the TA to 50-70 and the it should stop scaling.


So when it builds with gas it will shut off? I only waited like 10 seconds and kind of got nervous and turned the pump back on.

It should but there is no reason to stress the SWG with a no flow state.

Always turn off the pump and SWG at the timer. Do not reduce the pump flow.
 
Lower the TA to 50-70 and the it should stop scaling.




It should but there is no reason to stress the SWG with a no flow state.

Always turn off the pump and SWG at the timer. Do not reduce the pump flow.
I was going to put another timer on the swg. Not necessary then? It’s been like that since day one. And dry acid is ok to bring alkalinity down? Vinyl liner.
 
I was going to put another timer on the swg. Not necessary then?

Not necessary. Just turn them on and off at the same time always.

And dry acid is ok to bring alkalinity down? Vinyl liner.

No, use Muriatic Acid.


Problems sulfates can cause include:
  • Sulfates can damage concrete & plaster
  • Excess sulfates in water increases the likelihood of corrosion on metal parts
  • Excess sulfates in splash out water leads to degradation of any concrete surfaces
  • Sulfates degrade the coatings on SWG plates
  • At high enough concentrations, sulfates can react with calcium to form spindly, needle-like crystals of calcium sulfate (gypsum)
  • While sulfates in vinyl pools is typically not as problematic as in plaster pools, scaling of gypsum crystals can increase the risk of liner puncture.
 
Not necessary. Just turn them on and off at the same time always.



No, use Muriatic Acid.


Problems sulfates can cause include:
  • Sulfates can damage concrete & plaster
  • Excess sulfates in water increases the likelihood of corrosion on metal parts
  • Excess sulfates in splash out water leads to degradation of any concrete surfaces
  • Sulfates degrade the coatings on SWG plates
  • At high enough concentrations, sulfates can react with calcium to form spindly, needle-like crystals of calcium sulfate (gypsum)
  • While sulfates in vinyl pools is typically not as problematic as in plaster pools, scaling of gypsum crystals can increase the risk of liner puncture.
Should I vacuum daily then until the flaking stops? Is it going to harm the liner
 
Should I vacuum daily then until the flaking stops? Is it going to harm the liner

The calcium flakes will not harm the liner. But if you let them sit on the liner they may stick to the liner and be more difficult to get off. Eventually the flakes should melt and the calcium go back into the water.
 
Not necessary. Just turn them on and off at the same time always.



No, use Muriatic Acid.


Problems sulfates can cause include:
  • Sulfates can damage concrete & plaster
  • Excess sulfates in water increases the likelihood of corrosion on metal parts
  • Excess sulfates in splash out water leads to degradation of any concrete surfaces
  • Sulfates degrade the coatings on SWG plates
  • At high enough concentrations, sulfates can react with calcium to form spindly, needle-like crystals of calcium sulfate (gypsum)
  • While sulfates in vinyl pools is typically not as problematic as in plaster pools, scaling of gypsum crystals can increase the risk of liner puncture.
Why does Leslie’s say muriatic acid shouldn’t be used with vinyl liners? I was just reading about lowering TA and it said dry acid shouldn’t be used in swg. I added maybe 6 lbs (not at once) and shut the swg off when I did it. Did I harm the cell? Is there a certain muriatic acid I should use. And does it matter how much water I dilute it with?
 
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Why does Leslie’s say muriatic acid shouldn’t be used with vinyl liners?
They recommend dry acid (sodium bisulfate).

However, you will need to ask them why they recommend dry acid over hydrochloric acid.

We cannot explain why they recommend what they recommend.

When you get an answer, let us know and we will do this.

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:


1722566700031.png

Total Alkalinity.

Start by addressing adjustments to Total Alkalinity (TA) as it directly affects pH levels.

If your TA is below 80 ppm, add Leslie’s Alkalinity Up or Leslie’s Soda Ash depending on the pH level.

Conversely, if the TA exceeds 120 ppm, use Leslie’s Dry Acid or muriatic acid to bring the levels down.

For fiberglass, vinyl liner, or painted pools, we recommend using Dry Acid.
 
They recommend dry acid (sodium bisulfate).

However, you will need to ask them why they recommend dry acid over hydrochloric acid.

We cannot explain why they recommend what they recommend.

When you get an answer, let us know and we will do this.

:ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:


View attachment 601368
I just read up on "acid further reading thread" and I see why dry acid shouldnt be used in a plaster pool or pool with SWG. Since ive had this pool, probably a total of 8 lbs of dry acid has been added between last summer and this summer. How much did I risk by adding this? Should I be worried about my cell, heat pump, concrete from splash out? Last end of July i experienced those white flakes in the pool, and at the end of July now again im dealing with it. I been draining down to skimmer and refilling about 4x because I thought the CH needed to be lowered.
 
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I just read up on "acid further reading thread" and I see why dry acid shouldnt be used in a plaster pool or pool with SWG. Since ive had this pool, probably a total of 8 lbs of dry acid has been added between last summer and this summer. How much did I risk by adding this? Should I be worried about my cell, heat pump, concrete from splash out? Last July i experienced those white flakes in the pool, and at the now again im dealing with it. I been draining down to skimmer and refilling for past two days. I thought the CH needed to be lowered.
What is done, is done.

You should not be worrying about sulfates. Just stop using dry acid.
 
Sodium bisulfate (Sodium hydrogen sulfate) Molar mass: 120.06 g/mol

sulfate = 96.06g/mol

Sulfate = 80% by mass.

That is 6.4 lbs of sulfate or 45 ppm sulfate.

Sulfate in drinking water currently has a secondary maximum contaminant level (SMCL) of 250 milligrams per liter (mg/L), based on aesthetic effects (i.e., taste and odor).

Sulfate levels above 250 mg/L may make the water taste bitter or like medicine. High sulfate levels may also corrode plumbing, particularly copper piping. In areas with high sulfate levels, plumbing materials more resistant to corrosion, such as plastic pipe, are commonly used.

Test for sulfates in the pool water. If it is over 200 ppm, the only practical corrective action is to partially drain and refill the pool.



1722570041062.png

Problems sulfates can cause include:
  • Sulfates can damage concrete & plaster
  • Excess sulfates in water increases the likelihood of corrosion on metal parts
  • Excess sulfates in splash out water leads to degradation of any concrete surfaces
  • Sulfates degrade the coatings on SWG plates
  • At high enough concentrations, sulfates can react with calcium to form spindly, needle-like crystals of calcium sulfate (gypsum)
  • While sulfates in vinyl pools is typically not as problematic as in plaster pools, scaling of gypsum crystals can increase the risk of liner puncture.

Pentair specifically says on page 9 in the IntelliChlor SWG Manual - CAUTION: The use of dry acid (sodium bisulfate) to adjust pool pH is discouraged especially in arid regions where pool water is subject to excessive evaporation and is not commonly diluted with fresh water. Dry acid can cause a buildup of by-products that can damage your chlorinator cell.
 
So I shouldn’t worry about my pvc crumbling or concrete getting destroyed if 6.4 lbs is 45 ppm. Could this explain the white flakes?
 

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