Jandy JXI400N - Trouble Air

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BTW I would LOVE to take out the stupid useless worthless POS plastic pads and put a proper poured concrete pad instead. I might do that one day.
 
Does anyone know if I can just dry out the insulation that goes in the burner tub and use it again? It looks to be in good shape other than being wet.

This is the part #12 on the diagram (all 4 pieces). -> https://app.redpepperdigital.net/a10/publications/2022-product-catalog-no-price/146-147

Also the heat exchanger looks great. I don't really see a problem with it. Not sure how to test it other than pressurize it which I am unable to do. Maybe I could fill it with water and hang it to see if there is a leak.

No scale was present anywhere that I could see.

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PoolGate said:
No one knows if I can buy the Cupro-Nickel exchanger? It is only $50 more.
Click to expand...

In the Pentair MasterTemp the HD model with the cupro nickel heat exchanger has a bronze manifold and a different Water Pressure Switch.

I don't know about the JXI.
 
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Hmmm..... I wonder if nothing is wrong with the heat exchanger at all and it was just a leaking gasket.

Look at the rust area around the edge where the gasket goes. Maybe I should cancel the exchanger and just put the old one back in and see if it works once properly tightened.
 

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PoolGate said:
Hmmm..... I wonder if nothing is wrong with the heat exchanger at all and it was just a leaking gasket.

Look at the rust area around the edge where the gasket goes. Maybe I should cancel the exchanger and just put the old one back in and see if it works once properly tightened.
Click to expand...

I am not sure how it all fits together but I would have thought the gasket area is outside the burner pot.

If the gasket are is outside the burner pot and leaking how did the pot fill with water?
 

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If it was loose enough it would leak around those rubber seals on each of the 12 tubes around the heat exchanger input/output. That idiotic plastic pad sags a lot and maybe caused some stress in those areas.
 
Put the manifold on and unions and go grab a bladder. I would test without gluing onto the unions (dry fit) first but you can probably reduce the return side or run pvc vertical to do a low psi test. Or just set the exchanger vertical with pipe and coupling on both sides and fill with water.
 
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I went ahead and hooked back up the gas lines and placed the unit so I could cut the 2nd set of unions. Now I don't have to do it later.

Once it was all hooked up and the unions were glued, I removed the top so I could watch if it filled or not. I put the new exchanger on hold until I run this test. Just waiting 30 minutes for the glue to dry and I'll run it at 3450 RPMs and see if it leaks.

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I'm running the test now and so far no leaks. Dry as a bone. I'll leave it for awhile and see if it holds. I wiggled it around to try to cause a leak and nothing so far. Meaning all I really needed to do was tighten the screws and drain the tank.
 
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I saw some water in the bottom of the tub as I was leaving. Now I don't know if I started with the tub still wet - I did hose it out. Ah well. I'll leave it run for an hour and come back and see if there is any significant water.

I added a new movie of it all running to this album. -> Heater Issue Jandy JXI400N
 
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