Jandy Controller and Raypak Heater Wiring

Jun 18, 2012
25
Suwanee, GA
I just acquired a home with a pool and a spa. The prior owner manually controlled everything and I wanted to convert to remote operation. I'm able to switch between pool and spa modes on the Jandy RS controller as desired, no porblem there. The issue I'm having is either the capability of the Jandy unit or how it's been connected to the Raypak heater. The instructions on the Raypak allow for a 2-wire remote control (for a single function, heating of a Pool OR Spa) or a 3-Wire control (for the heating of a Pool AND Spa). My logic tells me that the control I need is the 3-wire since I want to independently control the temp of both the Pool and the Spa. However, the Jandy unit only has a 2-wire connection for the heater. The Jandy manual provides instructions for a 2-wire connection, but doesn't mention 3-wire at all.

Can this Jandy controller control both pool and spa heating or is it limited to one function? If it can control the heating of both the pool AND the Spa, how do you correctly setup the unit? Two pics for your info, first is of the Raypak control board and the second is for the Jandy. Both illustrate the actual connections/wiring.

image1 (3).jpg

image2 (1).jpg

Here you see the the following wiring:
Raypak Blue (24vAC) to Green and Yellow on Jandy 9 connector
Raypak Black/Orange (Pool Common) to Red and Black on Jandy 10 connector
Raypak Orange/Black (Spa Common) to Nothing.

What do I need to do to make this work?

Many thanks in advance.

Alex

Note: this is not same the system that's described inn my signature.
 
You only need two wires to come from the Jandy to the heater to control it. As long as you have a temp sensor installed, the automation should have it, you can control you temperature for the pool or spa. You would use a three wire setup if your automation system didn't have the temp sensor installed. You would then set pool temp on the heater and a spa temp on the heater. Then when the automation system makes a call for heat to the pool, the heater turns on and heats to the heaters set temp. Same for the spa. Nobody I know does it this way anymore. Well anyone with a good automation system.

Does the spa have it's own pump that is used when the system is in spa mode? I ask because some older setups had two pumps and the heater might only be connected to the spa pump so that would mean the heater is really only used for the spa.

The way the system is wired now is correct.
 
Paul, many thanks for your response!

I have a temp sensor, two actually: one for water temp and the other for air temp. I only have one pump. The Jandy controller turns the valves to the appropriate positions when asked with respect to Pool and Spa Modes. Also, thank you for confirming that the the system is wired correctly.

So now I'm really at a loss as to why I do not seem to be getting the appropriate response with respect to a call for heat.:confused:

It seems that the heater does not recognize which mode the system is in. I have my desired temps (on the Jandy) set to 82oF for the pool and 102oF for the spa. With a water temp reading of 83oF (as read by the Jandy), I get a "No Demand" reading at the heater controller while in Spa Mode. Jets are running, bubbles are bubbling, but no heat. There have also been times when I've found my pool at 88oF (as read by the Jandy), in Pool Mode, with the heater heating the water. In those instances I think the system was trying to achieve the desired spa temp even though it was Pool Mode.

Can it be a bad Jandy or Raypak control board? Also, Can you tell me more about the alternative hookup that you mentioned in your post? If there is any other information you desire to make a more informed response with respect to my issue please let me know and I'll provided it. Is there a documented procedure that I can follow to determine if the boards are working correctly? At this point I'm willing to try anything to get this working correctly.

Thanks in advance...

Alex
 
It is in your Jandy system that you tell it to turn the heater on. When you go into spa mode you probably have to turn the heater on via your remote. Do you have a hand held wireless remote or a wired wall mount system?

Sounds like maybe you might have made some accidental changes to the controller and thus heating when you don't need/want to be.


You don't need to hook the heater up any different than you have it. It is hooked up correctly.
 
You should find a red looped wire on the Raypak board, should be labeled fireman. You should run two wire's from jandy board and cut and connect to the red wire. Set the heater to pool or spa and set to 104 degrees. Then activate from Jandy control
 
You should find a red looped wire on the Raypak board, should be labeled fireman. You should run two wire's from jandy board and cut and connect to the red wire. Set the heater to pool or spa and set to 104 degrees. Then activate from Jandy control

The way the unit is wired to the Jandy is the recommended set up.

- - - Updated - - -

Yes, I have a Jandy PDA, a wireless remote. I also have the Jandy iAqualink system. No wall mount system. What other changes could have been made?

With the PDA, when you want the spa, you would push the button for spa, the valves would turn to isolate the water in the spa, and then you touch the heater button. You would then be heating the spa only.

To heat the pool, when in pool mode you would push the heater button if you want to heat the pool.

The way the heater is wired to the Jandy is correct and there is no reason to change it.
 
Paul, I understand that's the way it should work. But it's not working like that.

The PDA is able to put the valves in the correct positions to achieve Pool and Spa modes. Yes, by simply pressing the buttons. However, either the Jandy unit is not sending the call for heat when it's needed (with the PDA or maintenance) or the Raypak unit is not receiving the call.
 
OK try this, go to the heater and make sure the power switch is on. Does the display on the heater say "REM ON" ? If not, then the heater is not configured correctly. The press and hold the two temp up/down buttons simultaneously until you see the word REM ON. Now that means the heater is being remotely controlled via the Jandy.

Here is the manual for the heater. Page 36 talks about remote mode for the heater. Not sure if you have this book or not.

https://www.parts4heating.com/v/vspfiles/images/pdfs/RP2100Digital.pdf

There is also a possibility that the wire between the Jandy and the heater has an issue and you might need to replace it. You can test it for continuity if you have a meter.
 
Thank for the link. I have the manual.

Placed it in Remote mode. That's when it doesn't work, so I'm currently working in regular mode. Note however in the manual that you provided there's a bit of a difference in how to set the heater in Remote mode. Page 36 states that you need to press all three buttons, page 40 says you only need to press two (up and down). The latter, as you pointed out, is the correct procedure as far as I can tell.

I'd like to test the signal from the Jandy to the Raypak using a multimeter. Anything I should be aware of in trying this?
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
The older units you had to push all three buttons and the newer units it was only two buttons to put it in remote mode.

To test the wiring, you disconnect from the Jandy and the heater. Once you have that done, you can twist the wires together at either end, not both, and then on the end that you did not twist, use a multi meter and put it into continuity test setting and touch one lead to one wire and the other wire to the other lead. It should then beep to tell you that you have continuity.

BTW, does your PDA have a soft key for heater?
 
The controller in the heater was faulty. Had it replaced and it's all working flawlessly. Well almost, it appears I need to calibrate the temp sensors. Water is actually warmer than the sensors are reading.

Thank you Paul for all the valuable input. The diagnosis you outlined helped tremendously.

Alex
 
Thread Status
Hello , This thread has been inactive for over 60 days. New postings here are unlikely to be seen or responded to by other members. For better visibility, consider Starting A New Thread.