Jandy Aqualink RS with 8124a and Pentair Intelliflo....will these work or does the PCB need upgrading?

kl4444

Member
Oct 3, 2021
7
Cupertino, Ca
Hi all,
I am new to the community but thrilled to see all the info herein.

I have a Jandy Aqualink RS with a 8124 Power Control Center version board. My old pump died and we replaced it with a new Pentair Intelliflo unit. I have seen some YouTube's should how the RS-485 can be connected to the Aqualink, but I wanted to see if folks know if the 8124a version has the firmware in it to tale to the Intelliflo?....or do I did to update the PCB?

If so, what version of PCB is recommended?
thx!
 
I am not familiar with that revision number. Do you have a 4 wire red comm connector on the board? See picture. That is where the RS485 wire connects.
Also, how to you access the system? Do you have a indoor wall mount unit or a PDA or via your PC or phone app?
If you try to access the menu and look at pump set up, see if there is an option for VS pump.
I had an old 2012 timeframe board with a PDA which did control a Pentair VSF pump.
Maybe post a picture of your PCB.
EC654AD7-DED3-4D28-8550-EB13B0E6A4AD.jpeg
 
I found a picture of my old PDA board that did have a 4 digit number.
Just as a reminder, the PCB was used with the original PDA system that was bought around 2012.
Maybe post a picture of your PCB.
831CCEFC-E82C-49BA-B274-9D95D2AA3796.jpeg
 
thx....the number was on the PCB board. in the pic below.
Yes, it has the 4 connectors. I also included a pic of the control panel in the house. Says RS4. I noted that the board actually supports 6 AUX items but the install only included 4 Relays and thus the RS4 in the house.
See additional pictures.

When I looked through the Menu options, I didn't see an Intelliflo option. See attachments.
I assume this one is too old?
Is there a way to fake it or do I need to upgrade it?
thx!!
 

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You are correct that it is a RS-4 in the outside cabinet as you have only 4 high voltage relays - filter pump + aux 1-3.
The menu provided in your screen shot does not indicate any function to set up a pump therefore it is not capable even if you would connect the RS-485 cable. As noted by the wiki in the AquaLink given in post #2 there is a list of revision numbers - you can find it by going under diagnostics on menu.

I recently upgraded from a PDA (per my picture in post #4) to the new iAquaLink which uses PC and phone app. I purchased the iQ30-RS for about $1600 which included labor for local service tech to install (as Jandy does not offer online sales). This included a new PCB and an antenna. It was the latest revision T.2. You can also keep the inside panel as it will still connect to that red 4 pin connector however I am not sure if it will give you all the options (maybe someone else knows that). I removed my inside panel when I upgraded to the PDA system back in 2012.

Here is a picture of the menu that shows how to select a pump on the new software. So you can see that your menu system does not offer this. BTW - my menu on the PDA did offer this, so I was able to control my VS pump even with the PDA - however, recently I wanted to access via PC so I did the upgrade to the iQ30-RS
Pump Setup for ver T2 menu.PNG
 
You need to determine the REV level of your firmware.

If you have the Aqualink All-Button Panel then MENU -> SYSTEM SETUP(press ENTER) -> DIAGNOSTICS(press ENTER)

If you have the Aqualink OneTouch Panel then MENU/SELECT(press SELECT) -> SELECT (for HELP) -> DIAGNOSTICS (press SELECT).

You need REV O or greater for VS pump support.
 
You are correct that it is a RS-4 in the outside cabinet as you have only 4 high voltage relays - filter pump + aux 1-3.
The menu provided in your screen shot does not indicate any function to set up a pump therefore it is not capable even if you would connect the RS-485 cable. As noted by the wiki in the AquaLink given in post #2 there is a list of revision numbers - you can find it by going under diagnostics on menu.

I recently upgraded from a PDA (per my picture in post #4) to the new iAquaLink which uses PC and phone app. I purchased the iQ30-RS for about $1600 which included labor for local service tech to install (as Jandy does not offer online sales). This included a new PCB and an antenna. It was the latest revision T.2. You can also keep the inside panel as it will still connect to that red 4 pin connector however I am not sure if it will give you all the options (maybe someone else knows that). I removed my inside panel when I upgraded to the PDA system back in 2012.

Here is a picture of the menu that shows how to select a pump on the new software. So you can see that your menu system does not offer this. BTW - my menu on the PDA did offer this, so I was able to control my VS pump even with the PDA - however, recently I wanted to access via PC so I did the upgrade to the iQ30-RS
View attachment 375684
Thank you...makes sense and thanks for adding the model numbers!
 
You need to determine the REV level of your firmware.

If you have the Aqualink All-Button Panel then MENU -> SYSTEM SETUP(press ENTER) -> DIAGNOSTICS(press ENTER)

If you have the Aqualink OneTouch Panel then MENU/SELECT(press SELECT) -> SELECT (for HELP) -> DIAGNOSTICS (press SELECT).

You need REV O or greater for VS pump support.
Thank you!...will check.
 
ok...just wanted to get back to folks and say THANK YOU!
Ok, I am looking to upgrade my system to the new Jandy version that supports the new variable speed pump and wifi.

That said, was wondering if there is an opinion around the Jandy iQ vs the Pentair Easytouch?
Since I have a Jandy already, the cheapest is for me to upgrade the PCB with the version that has the wifi feature and reuse the installed enclosure and relays already there.

My setup is a pool/spa combo (one pump) with a spillover, heater, Polaris 360 pool sweep. Pretty basic.
It would be about a $1000-$1200 more to convert to the Pentair with all the duplicate parts (box, relays, inside touch pad, etc.) labor and changes.
I don't see any vast differences and can't see a reason to switch for that cost delta.
Any opinions?... is my directional thinking ok?
 

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I recommend you just upgrade your Aqualink to iAQualink 3.0.

I would not get an EasyTouch today. It is 20 year old technology. And you will need to add Screenlogic to it. IntelliCenter is what I would do if I wanted Pentair.
 
ok...just wanted to get back to folks and say THANK YOU!
Ok, I am looking to upgrade my system to the new Jandy version that supports the new variable speed pump and wifi.

That said, was wondering if there is an opinion around the Jandy iQ vs the Pentair Easytouch?
Since I have a Jandy already, the cheapest is for me to upgrade the PCB with the version that has the wifi feature and reuse the installed enclosure and relays already there.

My setup is a pool/spa combo (one pump) with a spillover, heater, Polaris 360 pool sweep. Pretty basic.
It would be about a $1000-$1200 more to convert to the Pentair with all the duplicate parts (box, relays, inside touch pad, etc.) labor and changes.
I don't see any vast differences and can't see a reason to switch for that cost delta.
Any opinions?... is my directional thinking ok?
I just went through that rational also. However I was not the original owner to build the pool so I was looking keeping what was there vs tearing it all out and restart. I debated to upgrade to IntelliCenter as EasyTouch is older technology and if I was going to spend the money it was going to be to the latest version. Both the EasyTouch and obviously the IntelliCenter was going to be significantly higher cost then upgrading to the new iAquaLink (iQ30-RS). I would have also had to change the outside panel and redo all the electrical. Like you, I have pretty basic pool with 1 water feature (separate single speed pump), a pressure side cleaner, old technology lights, and 1 new Pentair VS pump and also a relatively new Pentair heater. The upgrade was $1600 and I got everything I needed to control the Pentair VSP, wireless control to both PC and phone app.

I would stay with the upgrade to the iQ30-RS (this includes the newest antenna and the latest PCB with vers. T.2.)
It does everything I need to do and could handle more such as LED changing lights.
 
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