Jacuzzi 280 - Green, cloudy, smelly

[antplaysdrums]

We’ve had the tub (Jacuzzi 280) for just about a month (we only wear certain bathing suits for the hot tub). I’ve followed all their steps in preparing the water and what it takes on a weekly basis.

Opened it with Spa Boss spa shock, spa boss chlor aid, spa boss spa marvel and spa marvel alka rise. Every week I would add a half cup of spa shock as indicated. They also gave me a 3-1 water strip kit for free chlorine, alkalinity and pH.

We’ve got the clear ray system and I was told by the service department that chlorine is essentially unnecessary except if the water is cloudy. I added choline. Still cloudy.

Over the weekend, I took the water to a local pool place to get a thorough check. Now I’ve been told I have to address the water hardness and the pH.

Yesterday, I speak to the service department at the spa place and explain to them the dilemma. They ask me how the other levels are in the pool are and that I should add more sanitizer.

How much chlorine should I add to try and eliminate the cloud? Package says 1tsp per 100g.

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum.

Looks like you need to start over, get a good test kit, purge the tub with Ahhsomme, and follow the TFP process.

Start with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry and Test Kits Compared and How do I use Chlorine in my Spa (or pool)?

Let’s call in @Mdragger88 for assistance.

 

[Newdude]

Hey Ant and Welcome !!! This is the best learning experience you could have had. In a way it sucks but now you are one and done and will never repeat it.

If you use unreliable test strips, or a pool store with questionable intentions/ testing at best, you'll have nasty water and an empty wallet 3 weeks later.

There are no magical mystery potions that work. You NEED to know where your levels are to know what to do about it. We will send you to the grocery store / Walmart to buy the same chemicals without expensive labels on them at massive savings.

Get a reliable test kit. See Test Kits Compared. The K-2006C is a great kit but the tf-100 (tftestkits.net) is better portioned with more of what you'll need often, and less of what you won't.

Armed with those results we can walk anyone through the ropes, anywhere in the world.

It will most likely be cheaper to start over than to try and fix what's going on. Far less work also.

Hang tight for Misty's thoughts.

 

[RDspaguy]

Ok. Your pure ray system will burn off the chlorine, both cc and fc. It does not mean you don't need chlorine. It is a low chlorine system because it destroys chlorine. You still must add chlorine after each use. Too much is better than too little, as the pure ray will get rid of it either way.
I do not recommend non-chlorine shock.
If using chlorine granules you need to test cya (stabilizer) and switch to liquid (bleach) after you reach 30 ppm, or drain and refill at 50ppm or so.
Test strips are very accurate, until you open the package. After that they are more hinderance than help. Get a good test kit.
With the pure ray you will have trouble keeping an fc residual in the water, so don't try. Shock levels after use are fine. You will be close to 0 by the next day.
Balance ph, let alk land where it wants. Let us know if that's below 50.
Keep air control valves closed when not in use, as aeration raises ph.
You should not smell chlorine or musty odors when opening your cover, and your water should always be clear.
We revommend ahhsome spa purge for all new-to-you spas. You would be shocked at the nasties that grow in pipes.