Is SWG worth it?

How does 1.5 pounds of chlorine output translate to ounces of liquid chlorine? If I use 48 ounces per day in summer, a 1.4# unit for 13k gallon pool should be plenty.

Trying to decide between Edge or SJ series.
 
Go into pool math and set FC to SWG. The eyeglass / search icon pulls up all the models for their outputs. Play on the FC page or go over to the upper left hamburger menu for effects of adding.
I use 48 ounces per day in summer, a 1.4# unit for 13k gallon pool should be plenty.
Yeah, you don't need alot. Still, bigger wouldnt hurt. It costs less to upgrade than the lifespan gained. Going 20k to 40k costs about 20% more but doubles its life (100%). The bulk of the cost is getting into the game in the first place.
 
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I think the SJ series may need a higher salt level than the others. Personally I'd lean towards the Edge or an RJ30+.
With an 11k pool, look for minimum 25k SWG - especially for your Austin summer heat.

Look in PoolMath - effects ofadding. Set it for SWG, input the lbs, set percent and run time. It will show how much will be generated per day at those parameters.

I just ordered an RJ45+ for my 12,300 gallon pool. I'm in AZ. With our intense summer sun and heat I should be able to have a multitude of run options.... long pump run time/low SWG percent to shortpump run time/high SWG percentage. Having options is good.
 
Also, you should consider that the SJ H has four discrete power output settings (25% increments) whereas the Edge has eight (12.5% increments). With the SJ you may need to adjust pump run times along with the power settings to dial it in.
 
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So FC going from 1 to 4 (typical need during summer), pool math shows 50 oz. bleach. 5.2 oz chlorine gas (does 16 oz = 1# with gas?). So a 1.4# SWG would need to run about 6 hours, right? Do you just shorten run time in winter (pool never gets below 55, and pump runs every day.
I think the SJ series may need a higher salt level than the others. Personally I'd lean towards the Edge or an RJ30+.
With an 11k pool, look for minimum 25k SWG - especially for your Austin summer heat.

Look in PoolMath - effects ofadding. Set it for SWG, input the lbs, set percent and run time. It will show how much will be generated per day at those parameters.

I just ordered an RJ45+ for my 12,300 gallon pool. I'm in AZ. With our intense summer sun and heat I should be able to have a multitude of run options.... long pump run time/low SWG percent to shortpump run time/high SWG percentage. Having options is good.
Wonder why the RJ series shows a lifespan of 15,000 hrs, but the Edge doesn't, both with 7 yr warranty.
 

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pool math shows 50 oz. bleach. 5.2 oz chlorine gas (does 16 oz = 1# with gas?).
No it's volume with gas instead of weight. I guess technically it's a pint. :ROFLMAO:

Do you just shorten run time in winter (pool never gets
Yes. Depending on your models % output options, you may need to shorten runtime. I was too lazy to fuss with the pump and let mine overproduce at times. If I hit a teen of FC, I turned it off for a couple days. If you are going to make too much or not enough, always make too much.
Wonder why the RJ series shows a lifespan of 15,000 hrs, but the Edge doesn't, both with 7 yr warranty
I personally do not like alot of Circupools claims. They have alot of fishy manufacturer tricks that are TOTALLY not needed as they have a beast of a product. But manufacturers gonna be like they do, so take it all with a grain of salt.
 
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Also i like to figure cell life on 10k hrs no matter what they claim. Every hr of life after is gravy on the biscuit so to speak.
You need to know how many days you will operate your swg to determine how long 10k hrs will be for u. This is easy for me to figure as I close my pool for the winter & usually open & close around the same times each year. Then i just multiply that by how many hrs/day @100% I would run the swg in question.
If you don’t actually close your pool you will need to estimate the weather/temps as a swg generally won’t operate @ water temps below 50/55 f.
All the circupool warranties are prorated at some point - the info can be found in the manual for each unit.
 
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What does the raise salt by 4.8 mean, and can it be ignored? I assume the control will let you know when to add some salt. So running at 50% for 10 hours is the likely recommendation on your example. I'm leaning towards the Edge-40.
 
Tcat - i read in some posting a long time ago that one pound of chlorine in an swg spec is roughly equal to one gallon 12% Liquid Chlorine. I used that equivalence when determining my own needs for swg capacity and it seemed to be fairly consistent with the “gallons rating” that they advertise for swgs
 

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Also i like to figure cell life on 10k hrs no matter what they claim. Every hr of life after is gravy on the biscuit so to speak.
You need to know how many days you will operate your swg to determine how long 10k hrs will be for u. This is easy for me to figure as I close my pool for the winter & usually open & close around the same times each year. Then i just multiply that by how many hrs/day @100% I would run the swg in question.
If you don’t actually close your pool you will need to estimate the weather/temps as a swg generally won’t operate @ water temps below 50/55 f.
All the circupool warranties are prorated at some point - the info can be found in the manual for each unit.
Odd, I just looked at the SJ, RJ, and Edge manuals. Warranty for Edge is best, RJ is worst.
 
it means bleach adds salt🧂 w/ every addition - as does trichlor, dichlor, & cal hypo
This is why we tell everyone to check your current salt level with k1766 BEFORE adding salt when converting. You may already have more salt than u think
 
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Odd, I just looked at the SJ, RJ, and Edge manuals. Warranty for Edge is best, RJ is worst.

You may be best served by calling DSP and talking with them. Or use their online chat system and request a call back. When you talk on the phone with them, ask for a quote for the systems you are interested in. Also, ask about salt levels, warranties, etc.
 
You may be best served by calling DSP and talking with them. Or use their online chat system and request a call back. When you talk on the phone with them, ask for a quote for the systems you are interested in. Also, ask about salt levels, warranties, etc.
I chatted and got nowhere, so I replied to email with warranty questions. From the manuals: (makes no sense since both are advertised as 7 year)

EDGE:
Year One - No charge for parts.
Year Two - No charge for parts.
Year Three - Parts supplied at 40% of base.
Year Four - Parts supplied at 60% of base.
Year Five - Parts supplied at 80% of base.
Year Six - Parts supplied at 80% of base.
Year Seven - Parts supplied at 80% of base.

RJ:
Year One- No charge for parts.
Year Two- Parts supplied at 20% of base.
Year Three- Parts supplied at 40% of base.
Year Four - Parts supplied at 60% of base.
Year Five - Parts supplied at 80% of base.
 
Any reason not to put SWG in the 2" line feeding a heat pump? Isn't the salt concentration going to be similar no matter where you put it? See my picture a page back, the 2" line would be an ideal place, in case the 1.5" line below it doesn't have enough flow.
 
Concentrated chlorine is not corrosive.

It is the acid in the Trichlor pucks that causes heater corrosion and why only tablet chlorinators need CV between the heater.
 
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Well, that's 2 opposite answers. The cell only produces a little chlorine at a time, even less so than me feeding 48 ounces in 3 hours with a Stenner. How can this possibly harm the heat pump?
 
How can this possibly harm the heat pump?
It can’t.

And heat pump heat exchangers are not made of copper and are not as susceptible to corrosion of any type. Gas heaters are where the corrosion from acids used in the pool is a concern.
 
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* i'm retracting my statement above due to brain flatulence. Apologies for the confusion.
 

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