Iron well filled please help

Cburkett

Gold Supporter
May 27, 2019
103
Punxsutawney, Pa
Hello. I'm in very rural area. When initial install water brought via milk truck. The guy no longer in business. Not aware of any other services. Pool was installed company out of city 2 hrs away. Local pool supply didnt know how to service system. They recommended replacing with chlorinator and replace water. Which I did this spring. Lesson learned. I should have used rain water by pumping off of cover. I've spent min $700 now with this. I started search yesterday and found you. When I put remover in it clears instantly. They then had me putting tons of shock and chlorine. Instantly returns. I dont understand pool care at all but trying. I was so desperate yesterday I made homemade polyfill. I ordered your recommendation test kit k-2006c will arrive Thursday. Our town only has 1 pool store and a Walmart. Until I learn here what to order online I need help on what to get today from pool supply to get started. THANK YOU SO MUCH
 

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Welcome! :wave: When your Taylor kit arrives, please post a full set of numbers. For now, simply understand that besides the amount of iron in the water, two things make it worse - a high FC and pH. For now, try to keep algae away because if you get algae, you'll have to treat that first before any iron staining. Don't add anything to the water except regular bleach to increase the FC level. Tabs (pucks) increase CYA too much overtime and are only designed for short-term use. I'll give you a few links below to start reading before your kit arrives.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
FC/CYA Levels
 
Welcome! :wave: When your Taylor kit arrives, please post a full set of numbers. For now, simply understand that besides the amount of iron in the water, two things make it worse - a high FC and pH. For now, try to keep algae away because if you get algae, you'll have to treat that first before any iron staining. Don't add anything to the water except regular bleach to increase the FC level. Tabs (pucks) increase CYA too much overtime and are only designed for short-term use. I'll give you a few links below to start reading before your kit arrives.
ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
FC/CYA Levels
Thank you. I'll get the algaecide ordered and asorbic acid. Will respond as soon as test kit arrives. When they told me to buy the chlorinator I purchased additional pucks. I have about 60 lbs left. Am I going to be able to use those before removing chlorinator. I'm so overwhelmed.
 
Am I going to be able to use those before removing chlorinator. I'm so overwhelmed.
I would simply save the unused pucks in their orignal container. They should last a long time and you will be able to use them again at some point once you test your CYA to ensure it's not too high. The test kit will make everything much more clear to you. Along with those links above, you should also read/save the Vital Links below in my signature. They will help keep you on track. We'll help you through this initial learning process. :)
 
Also is it better to have pool covered or uncovered.
That varies. For places with extreme heat like AZ, CA, etc, the cover helps slow evaporation to reduce refilling with hard water. In your case, a cover may help wtih surface debris. The water needs a little bit of sunlight each day or two so that the sun oxidize what the chlorine has killed & processed.
 
Good morning. I recieved my k-2006c kit. I dont understand how to use it. Once my husband home I'll get results. Do you need everything tested that the kit has. Thank you on the cover I didn't know that. I kept it covered all the time. We typically only use on weekends. The absobic acid and metal magic will arrive today and tomorrow. I did put other metal products in. The pool has no current rust and is crystal clear. We've been getting a lot of rain and I haven't put any chlorine in. I cant wait to get you these test results. Thank you for the help. I also put brand new filters in this morning
 

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Great! New results. Your CYA is quite high. I'm sure that due to the inline chlorinator and pucks. No more of those for a while. Stick to regular bleach. The big question now since we know you have iron in the water ..... do you have algae? Is the water cloudy or showing any signs of algae-related issues? If so, a SLAM Process will be the first order of business. If you're not sure, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. But without a doubt get that FC up right away to at least 7-9 ppm. With no chlorine showing and such a high CYA, you are an easy target fro algae. See the FC/CYA Levels.
 
I have a dollar general close by. Is there a particular brand of bleach I have to use. I can run there now. I'm SO AFRAID to put the chlorine back in. The chlorine I think is what is putting the iron back onto the fiberglass when it happens. Do you have specific instructions on how much bleach how often. Also I have over a case of shock. I'm assuming it's the same as pucks just broken up? I've printed everything you've sent so far. I'm embarrassed to stay I'm not absorbing the information. I'll have time to study it over the weekend. Thank you
 
In addition to the bleach questions. I'm assuming I should continue to let rain water dilute the pool water. We're getting a lot of rain. I covered the pool last night after testing. And is it best to continue to leave the pool heater off. I'm just seeing that I should be replying directly to your comments.
Great! New results. Your CYA is quite high. I'm sure that due to the inline chlorinator and pucks. No more of those for a while. Stick to regular bleach. The big question now since we know you have iron in the water ..... do you have algae? Is the water cloudy or showing any signs of algae-related issues? If so, a SLAM Process will be the first order of business. If you're not sure, do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. But without a doubt get that FC up right away to at least 7-9 ppm. With no chlorine showing and such a high CYA, you are an easy target fro algae. See the FC/CYA Levels.
 
You can use any bleach as long as it is regular. Use no Clorox brand bleach or any bleach that says splashless or scented. Just regular. Always pour slowly near the return jet(s). Only add enough bleach to increase the FC as required for yoru current CYA so you stay in the target zone as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. If the iron reacts to that much FC, your iron content is too high anyways.

You don't want to keep using algaeicdes becasue most of them add copper, and then you'll have two types of metals to deal with. Keep your K-2006 tets kit close at hand and test the FC each day and monitor. Let us know how things go.
 
I'm assuming I should continue to let rain water dilute the pool water. We're getting a lot of rain.
The rain can work in your favor if you know it's coming. If you can trust your weatheman, lower the water level in the pool in advance then let Mother Nature give you some iron-free water. That can certainly help. Just make sure to re-test your chemicals levels afterwards. Removing water removes CYA and FC (and CH), so just be aware of that.
 
Didnt know that about the algaecide ? I wont put any more chemicals in without your approval. Thank you. Will be in touch
You can use any bleach as long as it is regular. Use no Clorox brand bleach or any bleach that says splashless or scented. Just regular. Always pour slowly near the return jet(s). Only add enough bleach to increase the FC as required for yoru current CYA so you stay in the target zone as noted on the FC/CYA Levels. If the iron reacts to that much FC, your iron content is too high anyways.

You don't want to keep using algaeicdes becasue most of them add copper, and then you'll have two types of metals to deal with. Keep your K-2006 tets kit close at hand and test the FC each day and monitor. Let us know how things go.
 

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