the white connector on the front connect to the buttons (yes?)
the black pins on the front side (attached picture = back side of the main control board .. text = dutch) look like the are directly connected to the chip .. (rx/tx ? or is this connected to something else ?



1619723736936.png
 
Has anyone figured this out. I want to directly wire the motor to a plug and just control it with a wifi outlet. Can you bypass the entire control board and just use a plug connected to the motor?
Yes you can bypass the controller/circuit board. The unit uses an induction motor with a start capacitor (quite common). I'm not an electrician; however, being a bit of a tinkerer/researcher I was able to familiarize myself with the basics. All that being said, I don't take any responsibility for anyone else attempting this and this is for education purposes only. There may be alternative ways of wiring, but this is how I have my unit wired.
 

Attachments

  • Slide1.jpg
    Slide1.jpg
    20.9 KB · Views: 272
  • Intex SF80110-2 Circuit Board Bypass Real.jpg
    Intex SF80110-2 Circuit Board Bypass Real.jpg
    295.7 KB · Views: 287
  • Like
Reactions: denwood and dvsjay
I have SF70220-2 and I managed to bypass pressing on/off button to start pump by following procedure:
* disconnect power cord
* press and hold on/off button
* connect power supply cord to mains power (pump beeps)
* disconnect power supply cord
* connect power supply cord - this time (and all next) pump will start without need to press on/off button

For deactivation of autostart behaviour repeat above procedure again.
 
  • Like
Reactions: bjmsam
I have SF70220-2 and I managed to bypass pressing on/off button to start pump by following procedure:
* disconnect power cord
* press and hold on/off button
* connect power supply cord to mains power (pump beeps)
* disconnect power supply cord
* connect power supply cord - this time (and all next) pump will start without need to press on/off button

For deactivation of autostart behaviour repeat above procedure again.
Not sure what model I have but I'm going to try this when I get home. I'd love to have 3 hrs in the morning and 3 in the evening, without having to modify the pump itself. If this works then a simple timer rated for a 1/2 HP pump will give me flexibility like this.
 
This does not work for my pump. Also I’m reminded that shutting off the power trips the GFCI on the plug, preventing a timer outlet from working even if the pump would auto-start
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support
I have SF70220-2 and I managed to bypass pressing on/off button to start pump by following procedure:
* disconnect power cord
* press and hold on/off button
* connect power supply cord to mains power (pump beeps)
* disconnect power supply cord
* connect power supply cord - this time (and all next) pump will start without need to press on/off button

For deactivation of autostart behaviour repeat above procedure again.
I tried this with an SF60110-2 and it did not work. It was not clear when the power (on/off) button should be released after pressing and holding it in the second step. I tried releasing the power button at different times, but still was unable to have the pump automatically start when the power turned on to the pump.
 
Hi All!

I recently bought an Intex pump SF60110-2 and it failed after only 2 days, it just beeps and shows a period on the display screen. Found this thread while searching for fixes. Intex is sending out a new pump, but I also wanted to get this one working.

I was able to get it running by bypassing the control circuit board and display board. This is what it looked like before I removed all the wires. I wasn’t sure if the capacitor is polarized so I put blue tape on one lead so I knew which one was connected to the corner of the circuit board. You can see the display board is hanging down as well after being removed from the housing cover.
IMG_7810 - Copy.jpg

After disconnecting the wires and removing the control board this is what you are left with, 3 wires to from the motor, 2 wires from the start capacitor, and 3 wires from the power cord, not shown.
IMG_7812 - Copy.jpg

Here is a close up of the control board with labels of what was connected. Sorry for my terrible handwriting.
IMG_7816 - Copy.jpg

Close up of the rear of the control board. Its just flipped up, the bottom right corner in the top pic is now the top right corner.
IMG_7815 - Copy.jpg

Shot of the start capacitor, at least I assume it’s a start capacitor. In case the photo links get removed or archived the specs for the capacitor are:
CBB60
40 uF +/-5% SH
250 VAC DB C
50/60 Hz So
40/70/21
IMG_7821 - Copy.jpg

This is what I came up with for wiring to bypass the control board. I’m not sure its correct but it turns on when I apply power. I think the control board controls the on/off of the start capacitor and this wiring has it on all the time. If anyone has other ideas please share.
IMG_7824 - Copy.jpg

Using some 14 awg stranded wire I had with some ¼” male quick connects I made 3 connectors to connect the motor, capacitor, and power cord together.
IMG_7825 - Copy.jpg


All wired up. Again, I’m not sure if this is correct but the pump does turn on and wired like this the GFCI plug doesn’t rest every time you turn power off/on.
IMG_7822 - Copy.jpg
 
Yes you can bypass the controller/circuit board. The unit uses an induction motor with a start capacitor (quite common). I'm not an electrician; however, being a bit of a tinkerer/researcher I was able to familiarize myself with the basics. All that being said, I don't take any responsibility for anyone else attempting this and this is for education purposes only. There may be alternative ways of wiring, but this is how I have my unit wired.
you saved my life, my power button broke and with this fix was able to bypass it and run everything from a smart GFI outlet thank you thank you thank you
 
My display has no life at all I want to bypass the timer all together, any suggestions
Yes here is how I bypassed the entire circuit board and everything. Hope this helps people. Pay attention to the start capacitor wiring the wrong way can be bad. Do put cover back on it is needed to circulate the air on the motor correctly.
 

Attachments

  • 234892322_815142825850414_3635399636990713153_n.jpeg
    234892322_815142825850414_3635399636990713153_n.jpeg
    277.5 KB · Views: 95
  • 235433722_174537398109844_6980009427740370839_n.jpeg
    235433722_174537398109844_6980009427740370839_n.jpeg
    265.4 KB · Views: 82
  • 236046768_2596294427332301_2789533626301300853_n.jpeg
    236046768_2596294427332301_2789533626301300853_n.jpeg
    376 KB · Views: 97
  • 236496966_196209645894523_5201601581941330726_n.jpeg
    236496966_196209645894523_5201601581941330726_n.jpeg
    275.3 KB · Views: 72
Hi All!

I recently bought an Intex pump SF60110-2 and it failed after only 2 days, it just beeps and shows a period on the display screen. Found this thread while searching for fixes. Intex is sending out a new pump, but I also wanted to get this one working.

I was able to get it running by bypassing the control circuit board and display board. This is what it looked like before I removed all the wires. I wasn’t sure if the capacitor is polarized so I put blue tape on one lead so I knew which one was connected to the corner of the circuit board. You can see the display board is hanging down as well after being removed from the housing cover.
View attachment 359034

After disconnecting the wires and removing the control board this is what you are left with, 3 wires to from the motor, 2 wires from the start capacitor, and 3 wires from the power cord, not shown.
View attachment 359035

Here is a close up of the control board with labels of what was connected. Sorry for my terrible handwriting.
View attachment 359037

Close up of the rear of the control board. Its just flipped up, the bottom right corner in the top pic is now the top right corner.
View attachment 359038

Shot of the start capacitor, at least I assume it’s a start capacitor. In case the photo links get removed or archived the specs for the capacitor are:
CBB60
40 uF +/-5% SH
250 VAC DB C
50/60 Hz So
40/70/21
View attachment 359039

This is what I came up with for wiring to bypass the control board. I’m not sure its correct but it turns on when I apply power. I think the control board controls the on/off of the start capacitor and this wiring has it on all the time. If anyone has other ideas please share.
View attachment 359040

Using some 14 awg stranded wire I had with some ¼” male quick connects I made 3 connectors to connect the motor, capacitor, and power cord together.
View attachment 359041


All wired up. Again, I’m not sure if this is correct but the pump does turn on and wired like this the GFCI plug doesn’t rest every time you turn power off/on.
View attachment 359042
Amazing

This has solved a similar issue I had whereby the circuit board failed (looked like a popped cap) and I was unable to find a replacement.

In the UK / Europe the wiring colours are slightly different - brown is live (white in this diagram) and blue is neutral (black in this diagram). Interestingly (and I have no idea why) the motor wiring colours are reversed as they are in this diagram, e.g. the blue motor wire connects to the live and the brown motor wire connects the to the neutral. The starting cap also connects to the neutral.

Thanks again for documenting this - I'm going to automate into home controls as others have done.
 
In the UK / Europe the wiring colours are slightly different - brown is live (white in this diagram) and blue is neutral (black in this diagram). Interestingly (and I have no idea why) the motor wiring colours are reversed as they are in this diagram, e.g. the blue motor wire connects to the live and the brown motor wire connects the to the neutral. The starting cap also connects to the neutral.
In the US black is hot (live) and white is neutral.
 

Enjoying this content?

Support TFP with a donation.

Give Support