Intellitouch i10+3D Spa circuit

Oct 21, 2007
14
I have and Intellitouch i10+3d that will no longer turn on the spa. From what I can tell the relay is not getting trigger signal for some reason. I am presuming the board is bad but wondered if there could be something else.
 
Your problem could be a bad relay or a bad relay driver on the board.

What diagnostics have you done?


24VDC high voltage Omron relays and miniature relays soldered to the PCB are used on Pentair automation boards to turn many things on and off including:
  • High voltage AUX circuits
  • Valve actuators
  • Gas heaters
Often it is not the relay that has failed but the relay driver. The micro-controller cannot safely supply 24V so it uses a relay driver and the relay driver also protects the micro-controller against back emf when coil is de-energized.
  • Easytouch uses 2 socketed ULN2803 drivers, labeled U3 and U4
  • Intellitouch uses 3 socketed ULN2803 drivers, labeled U11, U12 and U13
  • Intellicenter uses 2 soldered, surface mount UNL2803 drivers, labeled U4 and U7
  • Suntouch uses 1 socketed ULN2803 driver
The drivers can fail open or short - which means they can fail in such a way that the relay coil won't turn on, OR won't turn off. Each driver chip controls 8 outputs and any or all of these outputs could be "dead" - but it's typically not all. Also, if your relay or valve sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, the driver is not a likely culprit (in this case, you should test for a bad relay or bad micro-switches in the valve).

You can replace a socketed relay driver on an EasyTouch, IntelliTouch, or Suntouch PCB. The IntelliCenter boards with soldered relay drivers are more difficult to repair.
 
yep, they're on the mainboard, which is the "lower" board that's under the personality card. you have to unscrew the personality card from the plastic frame/bezel, pull it off (you don't have to unplug any wires - the whole personality card comes off), and then remove the remaining screws holding down the mainboard... flip it over and you'll see the socketed chips.
 
The chip replacement did not do the trick. When I did the job there was a fried ant at the terminals of the rightmost socketed chip which I cleaned off. I am now presuming I must replace the main board. Any thoughts?
 
If you need to replace the main board I would get the IntelliCenter upgrade kit. No point in spending money on an obsolete system.

Around $1,000 minus the rebate.


And Pentair has a $500 rebate on it - Offer available March 15, 2024 - Dec. 31, 2024. Must be purchased from a brick-and-mortar retailer, pool builder, or pool service professional to qualify for rebate. See terms and conditions for rebate requirements.

 
For the intellicenter upgrade he'd also have to get the i10 personality board, which is an extra $800?

@chulaman I'll send you a pm regarding repair option
 

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$700 with the rebate.

It is a bargain, and Pentair wants you to upgrade at that price.

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But.. it appears that you can't install it yourself and get the rebate... :(

Jim R.

Pentair has a pretty loose definition of "Professional Installation."

*Note: Qualified Installer - Defined as a licensed professional who charges a fee for his services, and possesses a business license, contractor's license and/or resale permit. Common examples of a "qualified installer" include: Swimming Pool, Home Repair or Landscape Professional; Plumber or Electrician; General Contractor; Heating and Air Conditioning Specialist

Find someone who qualifies and will inspect your work and give you an invoice for his services for a nominal stipend to submit to Pentair.

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one other thought... the i10x expansion mainboard is exactly the same as the "main" mainboard... so if you can consolidate everything to the one i10d - and not need the i10x expansion - you can replace your dead mainboard with the mainboard from the i10x expansion panel.

Only caveat is you'll have to reprogram your equipment/schedules unless you've got an indoor panel and clear the i10x mainboard's eeprom (the indoor stores a copy of your programming and pushes it to a blank board). Of course it's not too terrible to take a bunch of photos of your config and then reprogram everything with an indoor panel, and it's even easier with a screenlogic - but I don't know what you've got.
 
Give us a list of what is connected to your existing system.
Intelliflo VSF for pool, Intelliflo VS+SVRS for spa, 4 Intellibrites in the pool, 1 intellibrite in the spa, SAVI light set in spillway, 2 blowers for spa, multiple lighting circuits either direct 120 or to 12v transformers, is10 spa side remote, mobile touch wireless, 2 520285 valve actuator modules (on each of i10+3d and i10x although the one on the i10+3d is not being used). Valves actuators for slide, bubblers and spa spillway are used. Valve acuators for cleaner has never been used and valve acuators for uppper and lower spa jets that I do not use. There is also an autopilot total control salt cell but wired to the panel but not the automation
 

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