IntellipH control panel and ic40 not communicating?

oakwater

Member
May 20, 2020
11
Charleston, SC
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Hello all! I'm not sure what the problem is, but I'm starting to think my intellipH control panel and 1c40 are not communicating. The ic40 is all green lights: flow, cell, salt level and water temp all seem good. The intellipH control panel, though, has a red status light. It does not appear that the intelliph control panel is letting the ic40 function. I tried adjusting the salt generation power level on the ic40, but the intelliph control panel did not register the change. Similarly, I adjusted the power on the intelliph control panel, and the ic40 did not register the change.
Is it a safe bet that the 2 are not communicating? Is the only solution to purchase a new ic40? It is about 4 years old so I suppose it is nearing the end of its life.
thanks!
 
I haven't heard about those specific symptoms, but here are some things to try.

First, are the IntellipH (IpH) and the IntelliChlor (IC) stand-alone? Or are they plugged into a Pentair Automation Controller (EasyTouch, IntelliCenter, etc)? If they are stand-alone, the IpH will be plugged into a Power Center, which is a tan box about 5" x 5" x 10" or so, probably bolted to a wall or post near your equipment pad.

After turning off all the circuit breakers that power your pool equipment (DO NOT skip that step!), disconnect the IC from the IpH and disconnect the IpH from the Automation Controller or the Power Center, whichever you have. Then plug the IC into wherever the IpH was connected. You're just removing the IpH from the equation. If the IC then functions correctly, you'll know there isn't anything wrong with it. How do you know? If all the lights on the IC are green, and the Cell light is on (which means the IC is producing chlorine), check the returns in your pool for very small bubbles. If you don't see the bubbles, that doesn't mean the IC isn't working, they just might not be reaching the pool. But if you do see bubbles, then the IC is producing chlorine. Verify that by turning off the IC. Wait a while and turn it back on. If the bubbles stop while it is off, then start again when on, your IC is fine. If you can't catch the IC when its Cell light is on, note the current setting, then turn it up to 100%. That should enable the Cell light.

If you're not sure the IC is working (no bubbles, but all green), when the Cell light is on, you can try capturing water directly out of the return closest to your equipment pad. Test the FC of that water, then test the FC of pool water that you collect well away from the return. If the FC at the return is significantly higher than the rest of the pool while the Cell light is on, then your IC is fine. If you don't know how to test FC, that's a different conversation...

If the IC is not producing, then you can perform the cell life test (or you can do this test first, if you like). It's in the manual, page 19 of this online version, "IntelliChlor SCG Usage Hours Meter." Older ICs don't have this function, but I'm not sure what the manufacturing cutoff date is. Give it a try. If the IC is near the 10000 hour mark, it's done.


If all that checks out, you need to inspect and clean all the connections and cables. There are 16 connectors. Four pins and four receptacles for each cable. Clean them out, polish them as best you can. Make sure they're not bent out of alignment, etc. Inspect the cables thoroughly for chew marks. Rodents and puppies just love 'em. When you reconnect the cables, be sure they are fully seated. GENTLY wiggle them a little to maybe help with all the connections.

Before you report back, please fill out your signature, so we know what kind of equipment you have. Something like my signature (below) is ideal. A picture of your pad, showing the IC and IpH might also be helpful.

Good luck. Let's hope it's something simple.
 
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If you have all green lights on the IC40 when you plug it directly into the Power Center chances are the cell is good. When it fails the lights show it.
 
If you have all green lights on the IC40 when you plug it directly into the Power Center chances are the cell is good. When it fails the lights show it.
That is mostly true, but the IC doesn't always report status correctly. The only way to know for sure it's working is to test the output in the pool. For example, we've seen instances where the IC reports no salt, which should cause it to shut down, yet it still produces chlorine (I have one of those in a box in my garage!). Or there's plenty of flow in the pipes, but the IC reports Low Flow (I have one of those on my pad!), or wild temperature readings, etc. Pentair ICs can have both real and mock failures. Which is frustrating considering how much they cost. To be fair, they are working in a pretty harsh environment (heat, cold, water, salt, etc). They is what they is...
 
That is mostly true, but the IC doesn't always report status correctly. The only way to know for sure it's working is to test the output in the pool. For example, we've seen instances where the IC reports no salt, which should cause it to shut down, yet it still produces chlorine (I have one of those in a box in my garage!). Or there's plenty of flow in the pipes, but the IC reports Low Flow (I have one of those on my pad!), or wild temperature readings, etc. Pentair ICs can have both real and mock failures. Which is frustrating considering how much they cost. To be fair, they are working in a pretty harsh environment (heat, cold, water, salt, etc). They is what they is...

Yes, ICs will have real and mock failures. They all show up as some abnormal light.

As I said, if you have all good green lights then the cell is likely good. The IC does not say it is good on the lights and not be generating.
 
Is it a safe bet that the 2 are not communicating? Is the only solution to purchase a new ic40? It is about 4 years old so I suppose it is nearing the end of its life.
thanks!
Sorry about that, @oakwater. Let's get back on track. There are several possibilities, so let's address your questions and concerns. Please answer the questions, and perform the steps, I gave you in post #3. We'll first either confirm or rule out your concern about your IC40. If you have a Pentair Automation Controller, we can use that to help ascertain if your IC40 is communicating properly with that. Let's just concentrate on those steps, and then we'll move on to the next. Again, please fill in your signature with what'cha got, and shoot us a pic.
 
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Great information! It is a stand-alone system without the automation controller. I'm going to try all these steps now and see what happens. I'll report back soon! (and update my signature)
 
OK, here are some updates:
1) I updated my signature with my setup. Please let me know if there is more information that would be helpful.
2) I do not have an automation controller.
3) I plugged the i-c40 directly into the power box and it is all green lights and seems to be producing chlorine (bubbles and tested returns)
4) The connections and wiring seem clean and in great condition.

So why won't the intelliph allow the i-c40 to work and pump acid into the pool?
IMG_1069 - Copy.jpg
 
So why won't the intelliph allow the i-c40 to work and pump acid into the pool?

You said...

The ic40 is all green lights: flow, cell, salt level and water temp all seem good.

If that is so then the IntellipH is allowing the cell to generate.

When the IntellipH tells the cell to go into standby and stop generating the lights look like this.
The cell output is set to 0 with no LEDs lit and the Cell Status LED is off.


Pentair_ICXX_Cell_Off.jpg


Is your problem with the acid not dispensing or the chlorine not generating?

 

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The i-c40 will only operate when I plug it directly into the power source, not when it is plugged into the IntellipH unit. I did this diagnostic at Dirk's suggestion and it was a great idea. Looks like the i-c40 is working, but the intellipH unit wont talk to it. The system status light on the intellipH is red. Since it is red, it won't tell the i-c40 to produce chlorine, nor will it pump acid. I can override it and force it to pump acid, but it won't do it on a timed schedule.
Is the intellipH unit bad? That seems odd.
 
Post a pic of the cell lights with the IntellipH status light red.
 
All those green lights on your cell say the cell is generating chlorine.

What makes you think it is not?
 
Yeah, that's why it is so weird. If the ic40 bypasses the intelliph control unit, it works. Also, if the ic40 is plugged into the intelliph, the salt output levels don't match. In other words, when i turn up the salt output on the intelliph, the % output lights on the ic40 don't change. Similarly, if i adjust the % output on the ic40, the intelliph output doesn't change.
Through all this, the intelliph won't pump acid because it thinks there is a problem.
I also don't think it is a wiring problem because the cell works just fine when plugged directly into the power box (bypassing the intelliph).
I do not have an intellitouch or easytouch control system.
Really appreciate your help!
 
Allen, he doesn't have an IntelliTouch® or EasyTouch® Control System.

@oakwater, thanks for working through the steps, posting pics and your signature looks great! Here are some next steps...

OK, so now we know the IC is OK. Were you able to test how much life it has left? We'll come back to that in a later post, but for now it would be good to know what we're dealing with in terms of the remaining life of the IC.

As Allen guessed, you've lost the COM (Communication link) between the IC and IpH. We've seen instances here where this just happens, and we don't know way. I have an IC in my garage that works fine, but won't report to my Controller. Without the Control System, it's going to be difficult to determine which unit is at fault. I only know of two other, uh, unconventional ways to troubleshoot this, assuming you are sure that all the pins in the two connectors are making contact. So lets beat that dead horse.

Those connectors have four pins, two for power and two for COM. We know the power pins are making a good connection, because the IC has power and functions. If the COM pins are not connecting well, then you'd get the symptoms you are getting. You said they look clean, so that's good. You can trying wiggling the connectors, both as they are screwing together, and after they are fully seated, GENTLY, as a way to maybe coerce them into making a better electrical connection. Try disconnecting them, then back together, several times. You'll be rubbing the pins into their receptacles multiple times, as a way of maybe abrading the surfaces that might have some corrosion on them. Or you could try some contact cleaner on them. Or, as a last resort, you can very slightly bend the pins, and I mean very slightly, just give them a very slight angle, either toward the center, or away from the center. Then assemble the connection. This can sometimes force the pins up against the inside of their receptacles in such a way as to create a better connection. As I said, last resort, and very slightly, because you can break off a pin if you get to aggressive and then you'll be hosed. So those are my cable connection tips.

Did you inspect all the cables for chew marks?

By the way, I've been assuming you're out of warranty on these. If not, we can stop here and call Pentair and they'll replace one or both units.

Now if this were my $1200 (IC + IpH), and everything was out of warranty, I'd be tempted to start cutting wires and soldering things together as a nuclear troubleshooting option. But before we go down that path, let's check something else. How are you with electricity?

Shut off all the circuit breakers (you should be doing this each time you connect or disconnect any components to/from each other). Unscrew the three black screws on the face of the IpH. You may want to remove the IpH from the wall for this. Remove the IpH face plate and inspect the white COM connector. It's got four fat wires running to it, red, black, green and white. You're looking for any scorching. Like this:

intelliph repair 1.jpg

Report back with what you find. I'll warn you though, this probably isn't it, but we're being thorough...
 
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Here's another step for you, and something IMPORTANT for you to know. The IntelllipH shuts down the IC when it's pumping acid. This is to protect the IC's plates, and to avoid mixing acid and chlorine in the plumbing. Allen posted a picture of what the IC should look like when the IpH is pumping.

You said you can still get the IpH to pump acid manually. But if the IpH is not communicating properly with the IC, then it may not shut the IC down while pumping, and that's bad. You could try verifying what's going on, but you gotta be quick about it. Start a manual addition cycle with the IpH. Observe the IC LEDs. Do most of them go dark? It happens immediately. If they don't, stop the manual cycle immediately. Report back.

If the IpH doesn't shut down the IC during a manual cycle, then you can no longer use that function to put acid into your pool. Well, you could try doing so when the IC is not production chlorine, but that's a bit risky. You could wait for the IC to cycle off. Or you could manually set the IC to 0 output. But that's not exactly automation. Anyway, if the COM is completely shot, be aware that you shouldn't let the IpH pump acid through the IC when the IC is producing chlorine.
 
By the way, with the COM down, the two units are not aware of each other. The IpH doesn't "know" it has an IC plugged into it, but because the cabling is allowing power to get to the IC, the IC doesn't know, or care, that there is an IpH between it and the Power Center. The two power leads pass through the IpH, directly to the IC. The IpH does not turn power on and off to the IC. It only controls the IC through the COM pins, not the power pins. So the IC will function normally, and the IpH will not. That's why the IC is working, but the IpH won't pump acid. And why the IC lights are green and the IpH light is red.

The IpH will pump acid manually regardless of the status light, even if the IpH cannot communicate with the IC, which is why that function still works. The IpH display will even ask you "Are you sure?" when attempting a manual cycle with a red status light.

So the symptoms you are experiencing are not mysterious. Both units are doing what they do when the COM is down.
 

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