IntellipH control panel and ic40 not communicating?

Out of warranty, unfortunately. Also, I have the older ic40, so I can't find the number of operating hours.
I'm going to go through each of these steps you suggested and report back.
Thank you for spending so much time helping.
Steve
 
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Dirk, I think you've tracked down the culprit. Looks like the comm connector is burnt out. Looks like it is time for a new unit.
Dirk and ajw22...I really, really appreciate all the time you took to help me out. I've learned a ton in just a few short hours. THANK YOU
 
Does that scorched pin align with the black wire? The symptom of this known issue (to us and Pentair) is a dead IC, not the miscommunication you are experiencing. But I suppose it could conceivably be the problem. The IC is pulling too much current through that connector, and it fries. Pentair claims this is only a problem for their IC60 model (which draws more current than the IC40), but you're at least the third one of us that's had it happen with an IC40 (and I think there are others). While I'm not convinced this could affect comm's, it might be worth finding out.

This is DIY repairable. I just finished repairing mine. And @Flying Tivo repaired his too, as have others here. Both myself and Tivo admitted this repair challenged our soldering skills, even though we're both pretty good at soldering. So it's not super easy. I wrote up how I repaired mine, if you care to give that a read. Here.

Know that this symptom may or may not be causing the COM problem, and currently it's not causing the dead IC problem it's known for. So you could replace your IpH, still have the COM problem, and eventually the new one's connector could burn out, too. And you'll be right back where you started, minus a few bills. I know, sucks, right?

If this were me, and I wasn't willing or able to try the repair myself, I might first find someone that could do it. @ogdento, would you take on this repair job? Or you might find someone local that could do it. An appliance/electronics repair shop maybe, or fish around on Craig's List. It might be as little as $100, vs what, 3 or 4 for a new IpH Controller? Something to think about. Even if that doesn't fix the COM problem, you'll be repairing the other known issue, which is lurking in your IpH, ready to strike someday. I contend that the repair I performed eliminates this issue permanently because I removed the connector and soldered the wires directly to the circuit board (which is what you'd want someone else to do). If that turns out to be true, then, at least for me, fixing the problem is a better solution than buying a new one.

OK, so I've exhausted my tips for troubleshooting the COM problem, because I don't know myself how to troubleshoot the electronics beyond that connector problem. So here is an alternative solution, that you can try before you buy a new IpH controller. I would buy a new IC first. Here's why. I've seen first hand a COM problem with an IC, acting similarly to what yours is doing. Which is why I'm preparing you that fixing or replacing the IpH might not fix the COM. If you buy a new IC, and that solves the COM problem, then you know (A) it's not the IpH, and (B) is was the old IC. If a new IC doesn't fix the COM problem, you're not really out any money yet. The IC is a consumable part. It produces chlorine for about 10,000 hours and then it's done, you throw it away and buy a new one. You WILL be purchasing a new IC at some point in the future. That is a given. Maybe soon, maybe in 3, 4 or 5 years. So even if a new IC doesn't fix your COM problem, you'll still be able to use both ICs for as long as each last. ICs have been increasing in price, even before the supply-chain/inflation problem. Will they come down in price, or continue to get more expensive? One could argue that buying a second one now might even be advantageous economically. And thirdly, if it turns out they're both fine, having a back-up IC is good thing. One of them is going to quit on you, either because it dies, or because it gets used up. You'll already have one to take it's place, with no downtime. Currently, some of the models are hard to get (supply chain, probably). If you have a backup onsite, you'll be immune to any future supply issues. So there you go, several reasons to try replacing the IC first.

Then if the COM problem still exists, you can then replace the IpH, or try to get it fixed. I would do the latter, for the reason I stated above.

Stuff to sort out, for sure. Let me know if I can be of further help. I've called in another member, who can do magic with circuit boards. He worked on one of mine, so I can vouch for him. Maybe he'll want to fix your connector, so at least wait for that reply.
 
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PS. Just to avoid any confusion (ha, my own!!), in some Pentair gear, the two COM wires are green and yellow. In your IpH (and mine) they are green and white. I got those mixed up in my earlier post, which I've since fixed...
 
PPS. There is a way to run an IpH without its controller. So that's yet another possible solution. It wouldn't play as nice with the IC as the IpH does, but it's significantly cheaper than buying a new IpH Controller. We can cross that bridge if you want to... I describe how I do that in that same thread I gave you about the repair. I run my IpH that way in the winter, because my IpH won't dispense acid when my pool gets too cold (because the IC goes offline in cold water).
 
The little white DPDT relay is burnt. That is what cuts the comm wire from the main controller and opens it so that communications can flow to the IntelliChlor. The comms chip will be to the left of the relay in the first pic. IPh will not be able to send commands to the chlorinator if those components are not working.
 
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@rstrouse to the rescue!! Excellent catch, thank you so much. @oakwater, that punches a hole in most of my previous advice. Fixing the connector problem won't fix the problem that rs spotted, nor will trying a new IC. I think a new IpH is in your future...

rs, if I may ask, how do you know about the comm components on the IpH board? Because we could sure use someone around here that knows more about that than I do, which is nothing!

Do you have any insight about if Pentair is going to address the melting connector issue? So far their solution to the problem is like that old joke: "Hey doc, it hurts when I do this." Doc says "Well, don't do that!" I think they finally admitted that you can't use an IC60 with an IpH, but we know it fails with an IC40, too.
 
I do not have any insight as to whether Pentair is going to fix this but I do have great insight as to what happens when an IpH starts to dose. This is the same circuit that exists on IntelliChem. The relay is used so that if an IntelliCenter or *Touch controller is in control of the Chlorinator it will break that connection (RS485 D+/D-) so that the OCP will receive no responses. Then using its own RS485 chip it will begin to send the following sequence to the Chlorinator which sets the output to 0%. That is all it does.
IpH --> Chlorinator - Disable Control Panel
Chlorinator --> IpH - Ok
IpH --> Chlorinator - Set to 0%
Chlorinator --> IpH - Here is my status

This is the same thing that happens when you configure the IntelliChlor to output 0%. IntelliChem when it is dosing chlorine with the IntelliChlor it simply tells it 100% instead of 0%.

It expects the 2 responses from the chlorinator that the request was successful. If it does not get them then it will fail.
 
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Thanks for that explanation. It continues to frustrate me that Pentair seems to have left this unfinished. That the IC and IpH can communicate, and the IC and my EasyTouch (ET) can communicate, even with the IpH in the mix, but the IpH and ET don't communicate at all. This, while IntelliChem seems to get full support from Pentair automation controllers. I've always suspected they just didn't want to risk potential IntelliChem sales by making the ET/IpH/IC combo work better. Bean-counters telling engineers how something should work, yah, that always ends well... The same bean-counters that will sell every last defective IpH before they even think about improving the next batch of circuit boards... :( Sorry, just ranting...
 

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Keep on ranting. I built my own chem controller. For the most part both of them probably fit the good enough category for the average consumer. At least there is some modicum of keeping CSI under control. For me, I couldn't imagine dosing acid on a timed dose. The swings in pH and CSI due to temperature are pretty large without temp compensation. Constant monitoring takes the guesswork out of pH management. Things like a good rain or a temperature spike changes the demand.
 
Keep on ranting. I built my own chem controller. For the most part both of them probably fit the good enough category for the average consumer. At least there is some modicum of keeping CSI under control. For me, I couldn't imagine dosing acid on a timed dose. The swings in pH and CSI due to temperature are pretty large without temp compensation. Constant monitoring takes the guesswork out of pH management. Things like a good rain or a temperature spike changes the demand.
Not to hijack the thread, but more to reassure the OP: I have a much smaller and simpler set up (no spa) so there's that, but I don't find timed acid dosing a problem at all. My pH is very stable, year 'round with my IntellipH. Of course, every pool is different, so who knows. But don't fret it just yet, @oakwater, your system will likely be great for you once fixed. $260 to put this all behind you? That sounds great to me!
 
You can see it on the bright side, you can purchase a basic ET get automation and tie the iph pump directly to a relay function like i did. Dont know if the whisper flo works with the ET. Check that out first. @Dirk has you covered.
 
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hey just saw this thread...

looks like you folks have it pretty well covered! just wanted to point out that D3 (next to the relay rstrause pointed out) looks burned and/or cracked - it probably needs to be replaced as well.

I don't have one of those boards so I don't know what the markings on D3 are, or what it's connected to... it could be a "flyback diode" to protect the logic circuitry from the relay coil, or it could be protection on the data lines (similar to what the uic/uoc have)
 
Thanks Tom (@ogdento). The OP has settled on replacing his IntellipH. Given how many things are scorched, it's probably the way to go.

If I knew a little bit more about how the red and black power leads were being routed on the board, I'd be tempted to take mine off and connect them together off the board (maybe there would be a relay involved?) and then power the board with red and black jumpers from that connection. In other words, liberate the board from the high-current flow of the IntelliChlor, and isolate the heat away from the board. We've now seen too much heat from the red wire and the black wire, frying the connector, and now frying other components as well. It's just not designed well.

When I had mine open, it sure looked like the two black leads were connected together. But they're connected by traces on the board. I think I could safely connect those two wires together before they got to the board. I just don't know what the two red wires are doing, and where on the board they are joined, and if their connection is hard-wired, or controlled by some circuitry.

@oakwater, if you don't have any plans for your old one, before you just toss it, maybe you'd be interested in donating it to me or Tom, and between the two of us we could get to the bottom of this, and then share what we find with the forum. Let me know...
 
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I'd be happy to donate my old one. Just pm me your address and I'll ship it out once I replace it.
Do you just want the circuit board or the whole box?
 
I'd be happy to donate my old one. Just pm me your address and I'll ship it out once I replace it.
Cool. Thanks. I'll report back in the forum with anything I come up with, and be sure to ping you to keep you in the loop, along with @ogdento and @Flying Tivo and anybody else that's interested.
Do you just want the circuit board or the whole box?
All of it, if it's not too much trouble.
 
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