Intellichlor IC-20 No CL reading

[Jkbr78781014]

Unit 4-5 years old
8k hour usage
All readings were addressed and perfect
(Phos 90, Alk 100, Ph 7.7, cya 60, Cal Hard 200, Salt 3600)

I cleaned the cell with acid and rinsed quickly as no visible calcium deposits.

all my lights are solid green and tempted to give up and get a new one.

my last ditch effort is to hook up a dummy cell. Fill the SWG with pool water and press the flow switch. I should see bubbles after 1 to 2 minutes means it’s producing cl according to pentair support.

if not I am considering replacing the flow switch but not sure it’s worth changing.

Although I would look at it as a learning experience and have an extra flow switch for the bee cell.

Has anyone see a bad flow switch when all the lights are green

 

[Jimrahbe]

jk,

If the Cell's "Cell" light is on, that usually means the cell is making chlorine.

If the flow light is green, then the cell thinks the flow switch is working.. Installing a new one is not going to help.

Either the cell is working or it is not.. If the cell is working, then something in the pool is consuming the FC as quickly as the cell can make it.

I suggest that you do what we call an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test or OCLT... Overnight Chlorine Loss Test Add liquid chlorine to get your FC up above 5 ppm and see what you have left in the morning.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Jkbr78781014]

I did that last night 2 lbs of Leslie’s PPP powder shock. This morning getting a high level. (3ppm DPD & 5ppm OTO)

I may take to pool store to run Spinmaster. I fear my kits are old definitely past expiration. The DPD R-0002 has a pink tint when the drops come out which I believe is a sign it’s compromised.

I shocked last Wednesday night 26th and by Tuesday am June 1st it was zero.

 

[Jkbr78781014]

I cleaned my grids with acid twice a few months apart. My cell is no longer producing. All my lights look normal. I tried a test pentair recommended where you install a dummy cell. Disconnect the ic-20 fill with pool water and press the flow switch. I should see bubbles in like 2 minutes. I did it for a while with no action.

But I did notice my last grid inside the cell is not secure and moving back and forth.

is that normal and could that be the issue?

I am going to replace anyway been troubleshooting for a few months since opening end of April. Now the chlorine demand is getting so high with the heat and bather load that it’s not practical to keep on adding liquid Chlorine every other day.

I am ready to throw in the towel as it will be 5 years for this cell this week.

my pool is 16 by 36 3-8 feet approx 24k gallons. Installer definitely undersized me with IC-20 should I go IC-40 or 60?
The difference from 20 to 40 was only $100 so I am think is the 60 worth $200 more?

 

[mknauss]

An IC40 is a good choice in your pool volume in your location.