Installing new filter valve

youmyboyblue

Silver Supporter
Jul 12, 2019
28
Ann Arbor, Michigan
Hi all,

I have a replacement valve, a Hayward SP0714T. I have a few questions about the install.

1. The valve came with an O-ring, I think which is for the bottom between the filter and valve (?). Does this need to be glued prior to installing and clamping the valve? If so, what type of glue? The instructions mention Permatex #2, but I think that is for the pipe fittings.

2. There is a twist coupling that I can't unscrew by hand (picture below). I think if I can remove this then I won't need new PVC, but we'll see. Do I just need to get a big pipe wrench that will reach around it? Heat it up with a heat gun? Any tips to remove this without cutting or ruining the PVC?

3. The instructions suggest Teflon tape or Permatex #2 for the pipe fittings. Is Teflon tape really a good choice, will it hold up over time? Which is the better choice?

Thanks!!
 
Hi all,

I have a replacement valve, a Hayward SP0714T. I have a few questions about the install.

1. The valve came with an O-ring, I think which is for the bottom between the filter and valve (?). Does this need to be glued prior to installing and clamping the valve? If so, what type of glue? The instructions mention Permatex #2, but I think that is for the pipe fittings.

2. There is a twist coupling that I can't unscrew by hand (picture below). I think if I can remove this then I won't need new PVC, but we'll see. Do I just need to get a big pipe wrench that will reach around it? Heat it up with a heat gun? Any tips to remove this without cutting or ruining the PVC?

3. The instructions suggest Teflon tape or Permatex #2 for the pipe fittings. Is Teflon tape really a good choice, will it hold up over time? Which is the better choice?

Thanks!!
O rings are not glued, but should have a bit of lube on them.
Those unions seem to get hard to open after a while. May need 2 wrenches or one and a large Channel Lock or oil filter pliers.
Have been using Teflon for 30+ years with no issues. Usually takes more than the normally suggested 3 wraps. I always use at least 6 pulled tight. A little silicone sealant over that just to be sure has been my standard practice.
 
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Thanks so much!!!!

I'll pick up a big-old channel lock wrench and see what I can do.

Further searching led me to these articles which I'll keep in mind on this job:



 
Thanks again for the help.

First I installed three female PVC screw-on unions. These were wrapped with Teflon then some Permatex #2 (which I picked up from Autozone). I let it dry for 24 hours.

The filter sand looked low-ish, so I bought a 40 lbs. from the pool store. I capped off the center pipe in the filter, then dumped it in. I probably could have used two bags, but it'll do.

I then installed the valve to the filter with some suitable O-ring lube (0.5 oz Silicone Faucet Grease) from Home Depot.

I was able to reuse one PVC section. The two other sections were broken when I removed them from the old valve. So I took the old sections to Home Depot and found matching Schedule 40 PVC pipes/unions as needed.

Then it was some cutting and PVC cement to put it all together. I waited another 24 hours, although the directions said the cure time was much less, then got the pump going. No leaks! After a week long SLAM, the water is crystal clear. Should be good to go for the summer!

Scrounging the boxes at Home Depot for the right parts that roughly matched the old PVC was the longest part of this job, hahahhhah.
 
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