Installed New Circupool Edge 40

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I haven't swam in a Salt water pool yet ( water temp still around 62 ) but the water looks so soft. MY water fall usually splash's and makes sound but it's quiet. Not sue if that is the salt or my imagination.
 
laprjns said:
I use this current sensing device, (CR4395-EH-120-110-X-CD-ELR-I). It senses current on one of the pump's 220v lines and switches 120V to my SWCG. When the pump isn't turning there is no power to the SWCG. Current trip point is adjustable. If you don't have 120 available there is a version that can switch 220V (see the second page of the above link). Its a device used in industrial application for motor control and monitoring. Just need to mount it in a box (weatherproof if install is outdoors), make some twist nut connections along with crimping four disconnect terminals. In my opinion is is comparable in cost and installation ease to a timer
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That is a fantastic idea. I would worry about it sticking on, but with the flow switch as long as you checked on it periodically you should be adequately covered. I have a timer that is not hooked up to anything (no joke) but.. Hmm.. I do like that better... With the VS pump I bet you can even set the trip point when it's running on "high".... Cool... Clever...

Now if I ever can get my TA down and pH up at the same time I have the approval from the boss to get one... But I might as well get the water right first.
 
markayash said:
I asked and was pretty much told " don't worry about it, set and let it run" Guess they don't understand my brain
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Their ‘tech support’ is reading from a computer prompt just like everybody else. ‘Ok now reset the unit and wait for it to reboot......’. You can’t deviate from the script and they can only advise you on the most common troubleshooting steps before deciding it needs to be shipped to an actual technician. Even THAT person probably only knows the flow chart of how to diagnose problems without ever caring to learn how any of it actually works.
 
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If/when I ever get one, I'll hook my scope up to the controller... I have read -- here--- there is so much information that it's sometimes hard to find some of it-- that the RJ and SJ series are on 100% for a certain amount of time (duty cycle) I could be wrong about this but it looks like the Edge might be different. Actually I would like to know because that would, IMHO, give the Edge an edge in my comparisons...
 
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Rattus Suffocatus said:
If/when I ever get one, I'll hook my scope up to the controller... I have read -- here--- there is so much information that it's sometimes hard to find some of it-- that the RJ and SJ series are on 100% for a certain amount of time (duty cycle) I could be wrong about this but it looks like the Edge might be different. Actually I would like to know because that would, IMHO, give the Edge an edge in my comparisons...
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My small smart plug doesn't give "daily" details but every time I check it's pulling 78 watts and never stops
Good news is it's on 3 of the 8 bars and my FC is 6 and holding :)
 
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JonoVegas said:
I am installing my RJ45+ today and also going to use a Smart wifi "outlet/plug" that measures energy consumption. I'll post back once I have some data on the RJ45+ series.....for us inquisitively challenged
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I look forward to hearing your report back. I am the inquisitive challenged.
 
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markayash said:
My small smart plug doesn't give "daily" details but every time I check it's pulling 78 watts and never stops
Good news is it's on 3 of the 8 bars and my FC is 6 and holding :)
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I suppose that is what matters.

I will order once I get my TA down to 100, which might be a few weeks, maybe life will be back to more normal by then anyway. I dropped it down 10 PPM (to about 115) and my pH is 7.1 (from 7.8) now... so it will take time.... I need to figure out and build up an aerator, but I don't want to pull the solar cover off quite yet as we might get to the (cold) swimming range here in a week or two since it's finally starting to warm up this week. 80's soon... so I might actually use an external pump to do this under the cover. Or an air pump of some sort that isn't loud. Or wait until we are swimming in it.

I might just try running the pump full on with the returns activated for while.. they are off because I do have the Paramount floor system..

I don't want to add anything basic (high pH) to the pool, the autofill will do plenty of that on it's own with AZ water over time.

I am still leaning towards the Universal40, but maybe I will contact someone who knows more about it. Mainly because with the AZ sun, the metal control box and the non-clear cell seems like it would hold up better. Though I do plan on building a sun shelter for all of the equipment this year before it gets hot out. If I do that, it's a every four year replacement and not five to seven but the replacement cells are cheaper...I suspect the Universal40 is a "bang-bang" controller though.

I think you might have figured out that the Edge does have a variable supply on it unlike the RJ and SJ and that might make me swing in that direction because I like that idea more than it cycling... but if so I definitely need to figure out a way of shielding all that plastic from the sun. Maybe I am wrong but I have not seen any type of clear plastic last long here.
 

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I think I might end up going with the Edge. This confirms the variable supply:

"The CircuPool EDGE-40 electronic chlorine generator is an advanced, fourth-generation salt pool system.......The CircuPool EDGE-40 salt system features streamlined modern design and the latest technology to provide worry-free operation - you'll always know its working thanks to its exclusive edge status lighting. Its digital switch-mode power supply automatically accepts 110V or 220V, making it easy to connect to your existing pump timer or controls. "

Digital switch mode supply by definition means a variable pulse width modulated supply. So with a constant draw like you see the cell is on all the time at a lower power level. I honestly like that. I wish they weren't backordered on the bypass cell now though. It's always something...
 
It took a while to get my bypass..Its the same cell housing with no insides.
I like the fact it's working all the time. Its pulling 11 watts now :)

I am still tweaking mine, now I have it on 2/8 power and FC is at 5 for my 20K pool but I run my pump on low speed 24x7
 
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Hmm at 13kgal I could run it at 3/8 or 4/8 then for the 2/3 of the day or so I currently run probably...

Soon.. Still want to get the TA down a little bit more... I might order a salt test kit soon tho...
 
Rattus Suffocatus said:
Do you know about how many tests you get out of a K-1766? And for the record, Amazon sucks in the Zombie Apocalypse...
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Quite a few. There are two reagents. You use a single drop of the first reagent for each test, so that one lasts pretty much forever. The amount of the second reagent varies depending on the salt content of your water, but for 3600ppm you would use 18 drops per test.
 
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markayash said:
I haven't swam in a Salt water pool yet ( water temp still around 62 ) but the water looks so soft. MY water fall usually splash's and makes sound but it's quiet. Not sue if that is the salt or my imagination.
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Honestly I think the salt might make a difference. I have a big saltwater aquarium, but when I was first starting it up I did a leak test and a plumbing test with fresh water. I spent some time tuning the pumps and the drains to make sure everything was running correctly and when I finally filled it with salt water I discovered that I had to completely retune everything because the salt water was behaving differently than the fresh water was. Obviously the pool has a lot less salt than my aquarium (which is trying to match the ocean) but I can say through experience that salt content definitely does affect the way that water flows.
 
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There is no reason to buy anything from Amazon at present. Ebay is faster and cheaper . :). At some point I am going to have to order CYA reagent because most of it leaked out of the bottle in my kit... Maybe then...
 
markayash said:
I like the fact it's working all the time. Its pulling 11 watts now :)
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I don’t think it’s producing chlorine all the time. I think when it’s pulling 78 watts it’s producing chlorine and when it’s pulling 11 watts it’s just resting. You should be able to look in the cell and see little bubbles forming around the plates when it’s actually generating chlorine.
 

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