I'm starting to think there is something wrong with my plumbing. High filter pressure.

[AW139]

- - - EDIT - - - Pool filter pressure is fine. It’s reading 27 PSI on high. I’m an idiot.


This is the first year I have had my pool, so I didn't have much frame of reference to work with. All I really gathered is that it should never be above 50 PSI, and it never has been. Plumbing is all 2" PVC. At full speed (3450 RPM), my filter is indicating around 45 PSI, but I rarely if ever run it at full speed.

I cleaned the filter fairly soon after the pool came online to clean any debris out left over from construction. There was a fair amount of small sand/gravel that worked it's way into the system. When the PB and myself cleaned up the pool to open it, we used a leaf filter while vacuuming to make sure no big pieces of debris got into the pump/filter system. I have cleaned the filter a couple times this season, and while there has been the expected normal debris (pine needles/organics/etc), I never noticed a reduction of PSI after cleaning. It's been pretty steady the whole season.

When the system is off, the indicated pressure drops to zero. When there is a change in pump RPM, there is an associated change in pressure, so as far as I can tell the gauge itself appears to be working correctly.

The pool setup is fairly basic. One skimmer, one intake on the side of the pool. Two return lines leading to two eyeballs. No spa, or any water features. I had read on another thread that someone had a similar issue, and the pool heater was plumed backwards. That's not the case with mine. I was thinking of removing the eyeballs on the return to see if there is any debris blocking them. The both seem to be allowing an equal amount of water back into the pool.

The PB is coming back mid October to close the pool, but what can I do now to troubleshoot and see if there is actually an issue that needs to be addressed? Or am I just imagining issues that don't exist.

 

[Newdude]

Run several speeds low to high and record the results. Then pull the carts and repeat. Report the findings.

Normally we suspect algae but the psi would lower immediately after a cleaning then rise quickly as the filter clogged.

If the PSI drops considerably with no carts, they are either factory defective or they are gummed up and now defective from something the PB used at startup. If this is the case you can do a TSP soak followed by a MA soak, with nothing else to lose. If that doesn't help, you can likely get them replaced under warranty.

If the PSI remains high with no carts it points elsewhere in the plumbing

 

[JamesW]

Can you show the system?

 

[duraleigh]

Most every pool pump is incapable of producing much psi over 35. If you are showing 45 psi it indicates a complete blockage.

The gauge is bad or you have a valve shut completely off. Are you getting flow into the pool?

 

[AW139]

Run several speeds low to high and record the results. Then pull the carts and repeat. Report the findings.

Normally we suspect algae but the psi would lower immediately after a cleaning then rise quickly as the filter clogged.

If the PSI drops considerably with no carts, they are either factory defective or they are gummed up and now defective from something the PB used at startup. If this is the case you can do a TSP soak followed by a MA soak, with nothing else to lose. If that doesn't help, you can likely get them replaced under warranty.

If the PSI remains high with no carts it points elsewhere in the plumbing

Perfect. I'm out of town till friday, so I will record all the pressure and run the same test without the cartridges installed then. Visually, the filters looked great after a cleaning. I was away when the pool was first opened, so it's plausible something like floc was used without my knowledge and vacuumed through the filter. I don't have a way to vacuum to waste by default on my setup.

 

[AW139]

Can you show the system?

I can take some photos on Friday once I get home.

 

[AW139]

Most every pool pump is incapable of producing much psi over 35. If you are showing 45 psi it indicates a complete blockage.

The gauge is bad or you have a valve shut completely off. Are you getting flow into the pool?

As far as I can tell there is very good flow. At higher RPM, the jets are aggressive and powerful. The skimmer works very well, and visibly sucks in water from the pool, even on lower RPM. When vacuuming through the side intake, the suction is very good. There is really only one valve on the system; the one that combines the intake from the skimmer and the wall. I will run it on full blast in all three positions, and see if there is a difference in pressure. In theory a blockage of one of those should be easy to identify. The harder part would be identifing a return blockage since I can't isolate those.

 

[duraleigh]

If you have good flow into the pool, the 45 psi doesn't make sense. Can you post the pics jamesW asked about?

 

[AW139]

If you have good flow into the pool, the 45 psi doesn't make sense. Can you post the pics jamesW asked about?

I roped my wife into take some photos of the equipment pad. The valve right now is positioned to pull more water from the skimmer. When it was in the “all open” position there is no change in pressure.

 

[Jimrahbe]

AW,

Please tell me what kind of filter pressure you get with the pump is running at 1200 RPM, and what kind of return flow you can feel at your pool returns???

Also, if possible, tell me how much power (Watts) your pump is using when running at 1200 RPM.

Can you confirm that you only have two return eyeballs???

Is that tall black cylinder a UV system of some type???

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[AW139]

AW,

Please tell me what kind of filter pressure you get with the pump is running at 1200 RPM, and what kind of return flow you can feel at your pool returns???

Also, if possible, tell me how much power (Watts) your pump is using when running at 1200 RPM.

Can you confirm that you only have two return eyeballs???

Thanks,

Jim R.

Only two return eyeballs, yes.
Something I probably should have mentioned is that the SVRS on my pump will activate if I run below 1600 RPM. So I have never been able to run it below that speed. I know at 1700 RPM the pump is indicating about 240 watts.

Yeah, that's a (useless) UV filter. Whenever the bulb craps out I will get rid of it.

 

[JamesW]

Maybe a clog in the UV system or the tab feeder.

I would remove both.

To remove, remove the set screw and tubing then unscrew the chlorinator from the T.

Removing a Rainbow 320 chlorinator

I having a problem removing the Rainbow 320 Chlorinator I had a stabilizer problem for about two years Finally got rid of the stabilizer And the guy at pool store told me to start again with 3 inch chlorine tabs (although what I read on this site you should ditch the Rainbow 320–for reasons of...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[AW139]

After I run it with the cartridges removed (if that isn't the issue), I might as well remove the in-line chlorinator yeah. I installing a salt system at the beginning of next year anyways right in it's place, so no loss.

 

[JamesW]

The internal bypass plunger can break loose and go into the plumbing and get stuck in the Rainbow 320 T.

 

[Jimrahbe]

AW,

I asked because I suspect that your UV device restricts some of the water flow.

If this is a new pool there is just no reason for you to have the SVRS version of the IntelliFlo. Your pool builder screwed you, and he should make it right. I know this because I too have a useless SVRS IntelliFlo. I was told it was "required" which a later found out was a load of Bull Feathers...

I'd say that 1700 RPM and 240 watts is about right.

You must have some suction issue as the SVRS usually shuts the pump off when there is some kind of surge in the flow of water. The surge should not be because you run the pump too slowly. I suspect it is because the change from one speed to the other happens too fast. This cause a surge and the pump shuts off.. You can adjust how quickly the pump changes speeds and that might solve your SVRS issues. You also can't shut off the filter air vent valve too quickly either ...

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[JamesW]

Look into the hole where the thermal regulator goes and see if the internal bypass looks ok.

You can also see the internal bypass if you look into the inlet.

You have to look into the Inlet to see the spring (blue arrow).

The bypass is about where the other red drawing is.

Look in the thermal regulator hole up on the top to see if you see a disc or just a hole.

 

[AW139]

AW,

I asked because I suspect that your UV device restricts some of the water flow.

If this is a new pool there is just no reason for you to have the SVRS version of the IntelliFlo. Your pool builder screwed you, and he should make it right. I know this because I too have a useless SVRS IntelliFlo. I was told it was "required" which a later found out was a load of Bull Feathers...

I'd say that 1700 RPM and 240 watts is about right.

You must have some suction issue as the SVRS usually shuts the pump off when there is some kind of surge in the flow of water. The surge should not be because you run the pump too slowly. I suspect it is because the change from one speed to the other happens too fast. This cause a surge and the pump shuts off.. You can adjust how quickly the pump changes speeds and that might solve your SVRS issues. You also can't shut off the filter air vent valve too quickly either ...

Thanks,

Jim R.

I do wish that I didn't have an SVRS, but I'm not sure what recourse I have to have it replaced unfortunately. I did some testing and adjusted the steps between RPM, to try to alliviate the issue. It had no affect. No matter how slow the change happens, at below 1600 RPM it kicks off 100% of the time within a couple seconds.

 

[JamesW]

Maybe open the check valve next to the tab feeder to see if anything is stuck in the flapper.

Does the flapper go all the way up during higher flow?

Maybe try a different pressure gauge.

Maybe add a flow meter.

Maybe check the suction pressure.

Maybe put a pressure gauge after the filter.

If you can install a temperature sensor after the heater, you can use the temperature rise to estimate the flow.

 

[AW139]

Maybe open the check valve next to the tab feeder to see if anything is stuck in the flapper.

Does the flapper go all the way up during higher flow?

Maybe try a different pressure gauge.

Maybe add a flow meter.

Maybe check the suction pressure.

Maybe put a pressure gauge after the filter.

If you can install a temperature sensor after the heater, you can use the temperature rise to estimate the flow.

All great advice.

Check valve opens all the way. It appears to function normally. I think when I get home my first check will be to remove the filters and eliminate that as the issue. Then maybe just grab a new pressure gauge and swap it out. No point in running down a bunch of mechanic issues, if it's as simple as a bad pressure gauge.

No idea how to check suction pressure. When I swap out the tab feeder for a SWG in the spring, the check valve is getting replaced by a check vale/flow meter.

 

[AW139]

I just bought a flow meter to replace my check valve assembly. Edit by Jim R.