I’m on my own

TomMarkz

Member
Sep 22, 2022
5
Spring Hill, Tennessee
:brickwall: So my Hayward pump is on the fritz. I see corrosion. I went to my local pool supply store asked them for their opinion and they concurred corrosion. They ask me to bring a sample of my water and there is the result (see attached). I’m going to take on the task of cleaning and maintaining chemicals in pool. Are the recommendations from a computer read out of your test results sufficient?
One issue I’m having with these results and recommendations are as follows: it’s a Hayward SWG system with a Hayward T-Cell 15 chlorinater. My chlorine numbers are very high. In terms of recommended salt levels with Hayward I can be at 2800 but no ore than 3500ppm. As per the report I’m at 2820 and it’s recommending to pour 74lbs into the pool ( it’s cool now where I live and no one is using the pool) won’t that raise my chlorine levels further? I just replaced the pump and need to get these numbers to normal on my own. Your thoughts on recommendated water treatment plans from a computer pool water analysis?
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Welcome to the forum!
You need a proper test kit. I suggest the TF-100 / TFPRO or Taylor K2006C. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
We do not make recommendations based on pool store testing. The data they show is not chemically possible, with a high pH, 0TA, and 0CYA.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
 
Welcome to TFP! Sorry to hear about your troubles, am sure there are a lot of people to help you get the mastery of your pool.

Your thoughts on recommendated water treatment plans from a computer pool water analysis?
The honest answer is... You will not find anyone in this forum that will help your direction with a pool store set of tests. The only set of test results this forum trusts are done by yourself with one of the recommended test kits. Test Kits Compared

Just looking at that paper makes me cringe. Really bad, probably wrong, and even worse recommendations. You will find the TFP methods are so simple, easy chemicals to keep everything in balance, and a lot of great people here that love to help!

I like the TFTest kit Pro, the most bang for your buck. Take a look at some of @mknauss posts, really great stuff and you with a great test kit, you will get whatever is wrong corrected in no time!
 
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Welcome aboard! You've come to the right place for advice on how to get your pool sparkling clear and keep it properly sanitized.

Everything @mknauss says is absolutely correct. Pool Store info is notoriously wrong as all they are trying to do is sell you chemicals. The test results you show are not possible. In order to properly help you maintain your own pool a good test kit is mandatory. I second @mknauss's recommendation on test kits. Once you've gotten proper chemical test results, forum members will definitely help you get your pool in order.
 
Welcome to TFP! Sorry to hear about your troubles, am sure there are a lot of people to help you get the mastery of your pool.


The honest answer is... You will not find anyone in this forum that will help your direction with a pool store set of tests. The only set of test results this forum trusts are done by yourself with one of the recommended test kits. Test Kits Compared

Just looking at that paper makes me cringe. Really bad, probably wrong, and even worse recommendations. You will find the TFP methods are so simple, easy chemicals to keep everything in balance, and a lot of great people here that love to help!

I like the TFTest kit Pro, the most bang for your buck. Take a look at some of @mknauss posts, really great stuff and you with a great test kit, you will get whatever is wrong corrected in no time!
Thank you. I’ll look into it
 
Everything that’s been stated above is correct, but it seems you have a misconception with how a SWG operates. The amount of salt in the water allows the cell to make chlorine but there isn’t a direct correlation between the amount of salt and free chlorine in the pool. The cell uses salt in the process of creating chlorine. However the amount of chlorine is determined by the run time and production level that you set in the cell. Think of it like a car, you need gasoline in the tank to propel the car forward when you press the accelerator. But just because you have a full tank of gas doesn’t mean you’re moving fast, you need to move the accelerator to move. The salt is the gas in the tank, the cell is the accelerator pedal which you can control for FC output/levels. Welcome to the forum!
 
as per the report I’m at 2820 and it’s recommending to pour 74lbs into the pool ( it’s cool now where I live and no one is using the pool) won’t that raise my chlorine levels further?
Tom,

Salt levels and chlorine levels really have nothing to do with one another. Obviously, the salt level has to be between the minimum and the maximum, but adding more salt will not make more chlorine.

You control the amount of chlorine by adjusting the % of output of the cell, or by adjusting the pump run time, or both.

Salt cells have no brain. You are the cell's brain; you have to test the water to see what the FC (chlorine) level is and them adjust the cell or pump to make more or less chlorine.

Your CYA should be about 60 to 70 this time of year.

Do you have a gunite pool or a liner pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Everything that’s been stated above is correct, but it seems you have a misconception with how a SWG operates. The amount of salt in the water allows the cell to make chlorine but there isn’t a direct correlation between the amount of salt and free chlorine in the pool. The cell uses salt in the process of creating chlorine. However the amount of chlorine is determined by the run time and production level that you set in the cell. Think of it like a car, you need gasoline in the tank to propel the car forward when you press the accelerator. But just because you have a full tank of gas doesn’t mean you’re moving fast, you need to move the accelerator to move. The salt is the gas in the tank, the cell is the accelerator pedal which you can control for FC output/levels. Welcome to the forum!
Finally someone explained it that is understandable. Thank you.
 
Everything that’s been stated above is correct, but it seems you have a misconception with how a SWG operates. The amount of salt in the water allows the cell to make chlorine but there isn’t a direct correlation between the amount of salt and free chlorine in the pool. The cell uses salt in the process of creating chlorine. However the amount of chlorine is determined by the run time and production level that you set in the cell. Think of it like a car, you need gasoline in the tank to propel the car forward when you press the accelerator. But just because you have a full tank of gas doesn’t mean you’re moving fast, you need to move the accelerator to move. The salt is the gas in the tank, the cell is the accelerator pedal which you can control for FC output/levels. Welcome to the forum!

Finally someone explained it that is understandable. Thank you.
@TomMarkz While @Lake Placid is spot on with the front end of the analogy, it breaks down on the back half.

After you have pressed the gas pedal to move the car forward, or add chlorine with the SWCG, unlike the car analogy where the gas is GONE, the chlorine, after it breaks down organics/kill bacteria, it returns as salt in the pool (gets added back to the gas tank). You don't need to continually add salt to the pool. Salt only leaves when you drain/splash out water from the pool and replace it with new (zero salt) water.
 
Tom,

Salt levels and chlorine levels really have nothing to do with one another. Obviously, the salt level has to be between the minimum and the maximum, but adding more salt will not make more chlorine.

You control the amount of chlorine by adjusting the % of output of the cell, or by adjusting the pump run time, or both.

Salt cells have no brain. You are the cell's brain; you have to test the water to see what the FC (chlorine) level is and them adjust the cell or pump to make more or less chlorine.

Your CYA should be about 60 to 70 this time of year.

Do you have a gunite pool or a liner pool?

Thanks,

Jim R.
Fiberglass pool.
 

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