Idk what to do next...

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Geminisq

Geminisq

Well-known member
May 23, 2021
153
LargoFL
Pool Size
7666
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
I have spent the past 2 days reading Pool School and more. It is a lot to take in when you are also trying to solve a current pool issue. Please bear with me: I currently use a max blue 6 in 1 tablet, which my husband bought. I can't really change to liquid chlorine until I get the pool stable. Cloudiness started 2 days ago, now getting a greenish color. I cleaned my filter yesterday. These are my readings and what I've done so far:
POOL TEST LOG: Taylor K-2006C
5/24/21 2pm
FC-8
TC-10
pH-8
TAlk-200
Per ADT-Added 1lb. 8oz Dry Acid
(Chart says 2.31 per 10K gal)

4pm
FC-5
TC-3
pH-7.5
TAlk-130
ADT-Added 1.5lbs dry acid

-At this point I'm stuck. Water is still cloudy& greenish although the levels are getting back to normal. I don't know what to do next.
-When should I clean the filter again? -Is what I'm using going to kill the ?algae?
-Is this problem caused by the tablets?
TIA.
 
You have a great test kit. Now you just need to follow the SLAM Process

I do recommend you stop using the max blue tablets. They have copper in them. That will eventually stain your pool liner and turn blonde hair green.
 
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Here is what I would do:

1. Deep breath, you already have a test kit so you are way ahead of most people who come here with green pools
2. Follow Marty's advice above on the SLAM
3. Find a good source for liquid chlorine (walmart, lowes, home depot, etc.) and use that instead of the blue junk you have
4. What is your CYA? I didnt see that listed and that drives your chlorine levels.
 
Any puck or chemical that says "Blue" anything often contains copper. This stuff stains pools and turns blonds in to green haired leprechauns if it builds up too high. Avoid any chemical with copper.

Liquid chlorine or a SWG is always the ideal way to sanitize routinely. You need to get some liquid chlorine and toss those pucks to a neighbor who doesn't care what their pool looks like. <hehehehe>. Just kidding. sort of.

What is ADT??

Please list you results like this:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt if applicable

I don't see a CYA reading???

A filter doesn't kill algae, chemicals kill algae. A filter just cleans up the dead bodies.

Your numbers look like you have algae growing. You need to perform a SLAM process - SLAM Process

Questions?

Maddie :flower:
 
YippeeSkippy said:
Any puck or chemical that says "Blue" anything often contains copper. This stuff stains pools and turns blonds in to green haired leprechauns if it builds up too high. Avoid any chemical with copper.

Liquid chlorine or a SWG is always the ideal way to sanitize routinely. You need to get some liquid chlorine and toss those pucks to a neighbor who doesn't care what their pool looks like. <hehehehe>. Just kidding. sort of.

What is ADT??

Please list you results like this:
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt if applicable

I don't see a CYA reading???

A filter doesn't kill algae, chemicals kill algae. A filter just cleans up the dead bodies.

Your numbers look like you have algae growing. You need to perform a SLAM process - SLAM Process

Questions?

Maddie :flower:
Click to expand...
Acid Demand Test: It's in my test kit. Tells me how much acid to use. I thought maybe it was a different way to test the CYA?
What is the best thing to use to shock other than those stupid 1lb packets ?
 
Geminisq said:
I thought maybe it was a different way to test the CYA?
Click to expand...
No, you use the R0013 reagent to test CYA. Follow the instructions in your kit.

Geminisq said:
What is the best thing to use to shock other than those stupid 1lb packets ?
Click to expand...
Liquid chlorine. The granular chlorine contains either CYA or calcium. You need neither.
 
I'm back! I have a few test kits, was using the wrong one 🤦 I have ordered the recomended Taylor kit.
Pool is still greenish. I added 1/2 gal of liquid chlorine 10% last evening and 1/2 gal this afternoon. I noted green bubbly blobs when I vacuumed this afternoon. I will attach pictures. Here are my readings for today:
FC-10
CC-5
pH- 8
TA-140
CH-not available
CYA-300
I'm doing the best I can with the 3 Taylor kits I already have to get the required readings. None of them are expired, I just don't have the 1 kit with ALL the tests I need in one. So do I go to the CYA chart now to figure out the correct amount of liquid chlorine to do the SLAM procedure? Thanks all!
 

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JJ_Tex said:
Yep, that CYA is causing you all sorts of problem. Hold on tight and others with draining experience can tell you how to safely do it.
Click to expand...
Ok. Obviously I can't just leave it like this for a week until I can double verify the levels. I will look up more info on TFP and see what I can find out. Thank you.
 
I see that now. I read the info about draining. Where can I find more info about after the draining process? I'm just trying to put the whole picture together so my husband can read it too so we are on the same page, rather than me trying to explain it all to him. Thanks so much!
JJ_Tex said:
Until then, here is what I have:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
 
CYA is too high =. drain pool down and replace with fresh water
algae = Not enough chlorine /Use CYA/FC to determine your SLAM level based on your CYA level. 30ppm of CYA is an ideal place to SLAM.
SLAM = means raising your FC up to a set level (based on CYA level) and *keeping it there* until *all* the algae is dead and GONE.
OCLT = Overnight Chlorine Loss Test = testing pool chlorine for loss when no sun is on the pool to burn it off. If you still lose FC = still got algae

Clear, Sparkling, Sanitary Pool = Trouble Free Pool Method
 
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YippeeSkippy said:
CYA is too high =. drain pool down and replace with fresh water
algae = Not enough chlorine /Use CYA/FC to determine your SLAM level based on your CYA level. 30ppm of CYA is an ideal place to SLAM.
SLAM = means raising your FC up to a set level (based on CYA level) and *keeping it there* until *all* the algae is dead and GONE.
OCLT = Overnight Chlorine Loss Test = testing pool chlorine for loss when no sun is on the pool to burn it off. If you still lose FC = still got algae

Clear, Sparkling, Sanitary Pool = Trouble Free Pool Method
Click to expand...
Thank you! I'm still navigating the site so it's not that I'm not searching for answers, but every one's situation is not exactly the same, lol. I appreciate everyone who takes the time to help those of us newbies to TFP!😊
 
Hey Gem and Welcome !!
Geminisq said:
I'm still navigating the site so it's not that I'm not searching for answers, but every one's situation is not exactly the same,
Click to expand...
This is *EXACTLY* why we always recommend having your own thread. For your own specific detailed answers. Ask away anytime. The wonderful folks helping above are proof you’ll have no problems getting said answers. :)
 
Geminisq said:
I see that now. I read the info about draining. Where can I find more info about after the draining process? I'm just trying to put the whole picture together so my husband can read it too so we are on the same page, rather than me trying to explain it all to him. Thanks so much!
Click to expand...
After the drain I would do the following:
- Refill the pool
- Test the CYA to get a number, hopefully around 30-40
- Begin the SLAM process. With a fresh/mostly fresh fill it will hopefully only take a few days. Details are in pool school, but you will use liquid chlorine to get your FC to SLAM level, keep it there for several days until all of the algae is dead.
- End the slam and enjoy your pool
- Don't use pucks again, as those raise your CYA
 

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