IC40 replacement

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D

doclip

Member
Jun 23, 2023
9
Poway, CA
Hello,
I just joined the forum due to abudance of the knowledge here...
I'm new to my pool, purchased the property a couple years ago.
Pool was installed in 2017, Pentair system.
I have a pool guy (through a company) who services the pool once a week.
He mentioned the salt water unit IC40 is end of life (6 years), and needs to be replaced.
He quoted me 1600 + labor.
I looked at pentair website, and under the list of the dealers I could get the unit for ~1k
I wonder if it's worth asking them to replace it vs I try it myself...

I appreciate any feedback regrading this task
 
Welcome to the forum.
Show us a picture of the SWCG with it powered up and the pump running.
Why is he saying the SWCG needs to be replaced.
What volume is your pool?

You can easily replace it your self.
marinapoolspaandpatio.com

Pentair 520555 IntelliChlor IC40 Salt Chlorine Generator Cell

Pentair 520555 IntelliChlor IC40 Salt Chlorine Generator Cell. Lowest Prices Guaranteed. Authorized Service Center - All Pentair Parts Available.
marinapoolspaandpatio.com marinapoolspaandpatio.com

I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool
 
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Here are the pics.
The 'Good' led is flashing, app reads 4400 salt level.
The CELL led goes on and off with no particular interval.

He mentioned that sanitizer has no output, when he was debugging it the 'sanitizer output' leds were all off...but today it's back on again.
He also checked the power to the unit, and all the voltages were correct.
I changed the sanitizer levels between the two shots, that's why one has 2 leds on vs 3 in the other one.
IMG_1747.jpegIMG_1746.jpeg
 
If the CELL light is flashing, and there is no calcium build up on the cell plates, the Cell is dead.

Have you looked at the cell plates?
 
do,

Is the cell light "flashing" or is it sometimes on, and sometimes off?

If you set the output to 50%, the Cell light should be on for about 2.5 minutes and then off for about 2.5 minutes.. If it is doing this, the cell is making chlorine.

If the cell light is actually flashing, and the cell is clean, then the cell is bad.

I suggest that you buy a new cell and then give your pool guy $100 bucks to install it.


Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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I just replaced my IC40 due to flashing cell light. I tried cleaning it with some Muriatic Acid a few times, and also clipping some wires on the flow sensor to see if that is faulty. Might be worth trying both. My GOOD light was not flashing though, so might be a good idea to do a bit more troubleshooting before you spend $1k on a new cell.

If it ends up being dead I wouldn't pay the pool service to replace it unless you have an unusual install. Especially if they're charging ~$400-500 upcharge on parts and labor on top of that.

All you do is pull the old cell out, put the new one in, and plug it into the existing port. The whole thing should take about 10 minutes, the collar on mine has to be just right otherwise water shoots out so it took me about 30 minutes.

Here's a couple of threads that can get you started in the right direction, in addition to the folks here.

IC40 Cleaning Schedule and How To

Our IC40 SWG seems to be working fine. Our pool is new and everything was started up in July of this year - I had marked on my calendar to clean the SWG this week - I can't remember why, but I feel like somewhere (manual or something) I read it should be checked/cleaned every 4 months. Is that...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

Intellichlor Sensor Hack - 3 Wire Flow Switch

My (just cleaned) IC-40 cell is reading ~2000 ppm even though my LaMotte (same as Taylor K-1766) test kit is showing ~3200ppm. After reading through the sensor hack threads, I thought clipping the white and green wires should (temporarily) confirm that the thermister in the flow switch had...
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

If all this sounds over your head it may also be a good idea to get a second (and maybe third) quote from another local company. Given the premium your current company is quoting I'd personally be a bit distrusting that they fully diagnosed any potential issues to save the cell and wouldn't buy parts from them.
 
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do,

There is no doubt that anyone can easily replace an IC40 salt cell.

In the big picture, your best bet is to do away with the pool guy altogether and just maintain the pool yourself.

That said, there are many reasons why some pool owners need a pool guy to maintain their pools.

If you are the kind of person that needs a pool guy, then to me, it makes sense for you to buy the cell, and then have him install it for $100 bucks. This makes it a win win situation for both parties.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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After determining if the cell truly needs replacing.
Before you order/buy a replacement cell let’s also be sure that you get one that’s sized appropriately for your pool. Your pool volume isn’t listed.
It is recommended that you get one rated for at least 2x’s your pool volume or larger if you can swing it.
This is especially important in sunny California with your long pool seasons.
The bigger the cell, the less you have to run it & the longer it will take you to reach the end of its finite lifespan of around 8-10k hours run time @100%.
Upgrading to the ic60 is as simple as purchasing one & putting it in just like the ic40 replacement.
They cost a few hundred bucks more than the ic40.
 

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The pool has irregular shape..I measured the length and width ,which are 23 and 19 feet...Depth is 3-5 feet...so overall the volume is smaller than 23*19*4*7.5=13000 gallons.

I tried the 50% suggestion. When setting the output to 50%, CELL led stays on for around 2:10 minutes, and off for around 2:45 minutes (roughly 50%). Only flashing LED is GOOD which suggests higher salt.

I also found this in the owner's manual:
  1. Press and hold the MORE button for three (3) seconds until the lights scroll across the unit.
    One (1) of the five (5) Sanitizer Output LED indicators (20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100%) will be lit,
    indicating the hours of usage. The Output LEDs are as follows:

    2000 hours (20% LED on)
    4000 hours (40% LED on)
    6000 hours (60% LED on)
    8000 hours (80% LED on)
    10,000 hours (100% LED on)
Click to expand...
only 20% LED turned on with this test, which suggests 2000 hours of usage.

How do I check the cell plates?

I also need to learn taking care of the pool myself..I really appreciate everyone's feedback here!
 
Do,

When the IC40 first starts up, the Low and Good salt lights will flash back and forth as the cell measures the salt level. This can often take five minutes. Once the salinity test is done you should get a constant Good salt light. If the Good salt light constantly flashes, it means your salt level is above 5000, which will not shut the cell off, but is way too high for most people.

You really need to test the water to to determine the "actual" salt level.. The cell can often be way off.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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doclip said:
Pump runs from 9am-2pm daily.
Click to expand...
Was it previously set to the 40% output as shown in your first photo? If so, for 5hr run at 40% you are only adding 1.1fc daily . You are not that far from me and I am averaging 3.5fc daily (and my pool does not get full sun) so by the time pool guy comes once a week, all things ideal, you would have no chlorine.
 
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Have you disconnected it by removing the two collars connecting it to the pipes on each side and looked inside to see if there is scaling in there yet? If it has scaling it will be white mineral buildup in there.

I’d start here if you haven’t. It will be easy to put back on, maybe a little frustrating and wet if yours is like mine. Make sure to shut off the pump first and run it after.
 
Apologies for me being MIA...

I ordered a new IC40 because
1) I don't have time now to take care of the pool myself...(hopefully in near future)
2) I thought it's better to have extra one as the original one is almost 6 years old (and probably never cleaned)

I see in some YouTube videos, that after turning off the system, they de-pressurize the filter (?), then open IC40 to replace
Would you please help me undestand this step?
 

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