IC40 - no lights except for faint low salt flashing

Stoots

Member
Nov 12, 2020
21
Northern IL
Pool Size
29550
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Our IC40 does not appear to be operating correctly. None of the lights are illuminated except for a faint low salt light flashing. We just had our spa water (Pool is closed for winter) checked and the chlorine is at 0.0. Clearly the SWG is getting power but not sure how to diagnose this. Any insight is appreciated.
 
S,

Is your IC40 part of an automation system, or is it a standalone SWCG system?

I can't think of anything that would cause just the low salt light to be on by itself.

Your video does not work for me.

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
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Hi Jim. Thanks for the response. Yes it is part of a full Pentair Intellicenter which includes Intellichlor, IntelliPh, etc.. We have an in ground pool/spa that was built in June 2020. The pool is shut down for winter (in IL) and now just the spa is open. we have been having issues with Ph and Alkalinity so we had our water checked today. The chlorine is at 0 which indicates to me that the SWG is not producing any chlorine. I was hoping there was some sort of reset I could do.

The video was just a quick shot of the IC40 with the faint flashing low salt light.
 
Ahha, you have an IntellipH and your IntelliCenter gets power through the IntellipH.

You have a problem with the connector or board in your IntellipH supplying power to the Intellichlor cell.

@Dirk is the guy to help you.

See...


 
Funny you should mention that. The IntelliPh board is burned out and we have been waiting on a replacement board since last June. The SWG was working ok this summer even though the IntelliPh system was down.
 
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I can confirm that the cell is directly connected to the main power center. It has been operational the last few months while the iPh has been out of commission since June. I am not seeing any burns on cord end.
 
S,

The IntelliCenter has a output % for the Pool and a different output % for the spa. It is possible that your spa output is set to zero or some very small number.

I have an EasyTouch, but the following pic shows what I am talking about.

View media item 1963

If you have a voltmeter you can test the DC voltage going to the cell. Mine reads about 40 VDC when the cell is at rest and about 35 VDC when the cell is making chlorine. You can test right at the Surge card (Power supply card) for the cell. Test between the Red and Black wires going to the cell.




Thanks,

Jim R.
 
The Output is set to 3%. Salt Level on Intellicenter says 3750 but I am pretty sure that is not accurate.

I wish I had a voltmeter. I guess I could go buy one.
 
S,

I can't think of any failure that would cause the IC40 to not have all of its lights other than a failed cell or low voltage from the cell's power supply (Surge card).

Thanks,

Jim R.
 

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Monitoring this thread, but it sounds like the IntellipH is out of the loop for now and not part of this troubleshooting. I'll chime in if it gets determined the IntellipH is at fault.
 
It appears that there is a fried connector at the board for the SWG and that is why it's not working. Trying to get that rewired.
 
It appears that there is a fried connector at the board for the SWG and that is why it's not working. Trying to get that rewired.
Many of us have had a similar problem with fried connectors on our IntellipH boards. These connectors are no match for the current draw of the IC. Since my board was out of warranty, I chose not to replace it, nor attempt to replace just the connector. Instead, I cut off the connector and soldered the wires directly to the board, which worked great and still does.

It eliminates the ability to just unplug the board, but it also eliminates the likelihood of the same problem happening again if you just replace the connector.

This doesn't apply directly to your situation, because your board is a different one, but the principle, and the problem, are the same: the same inadequate connector. If you'd care to read how I accomplished this, I wrote about it here. The fried connector repair is in the third post, but as an IntellipH/IC combo owner, you might find some of the other posts interesting as well:

 
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