I think I have yellow algae.

[Rose1234]

We have either dead algae or mustard algae or something in our salt water fiberglass pool. We've been struggling with it for a couple years. It's the kind of thing that looks like sand at the bottom of the pool, but when you brush it, the "sand" just disappears into a cloud. It is very thin and will not vacuum. We have tried drop & vac products to make the stuff heavy enough to vacuum. We put it in the water following all the directions and then vac to waste. We've had the sand in the filter replaced. It all seems to go away and then a week or so later, boom, it is back. We cannot drain the pool and refill since it is fiberglass and we don't want it to pop out of the ground. The pool is very clear, but this "sandy" stuff is at the bottom and we cannot get rid of it. What do we need to do to get rid of this issue? Pool store says it's dead algae, I am not so sure. Please see attached photos.

 

[mknauss]

Can you post a complete set of pool water chemistry tests using your own kit?

Do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Target a FC of 15-20% of your CYA for the test.

 

[duraleigh]

Looks like plain ole' algae. You can get rid of it by following our procedures but it will require you to get a test kit both you and TFP can depend on.

We will certainly help but we need the test results first.

Please read "Pool Care Basics" up in Pool School

 

[Rose1234]

I don't have a test kit. We have been using test strips, but chlorine level has been on the low side. PH/stabilizer is good. Is plain old algae not vacuumable? This stuff just turns into a cloud when you try to vacuum it.

 

[Rose1234]

sorry - this just seems like a site to sell test kits.

 

[PoolStored]

sorry - this just seems like a site to sell test kits.

It is not. The forum and TFTestkits.net are two different entities. TFP is a non-profit 503c, entirely funded by donations and pool math subscriptions. We don't care where you buy your kit, we recommend both the Taylor and the TFTestkits.net. TFTestkits tends to be a better value.

What we are is this:

What is TFPC?

We believe any pool owner can achieve and maintain safe, crystal clear pool water, by using the science-based, Trouble Free Pool Care (TFPC) methodology.

www.troublefreepool.com

The reason for the test kit is to have accurate water assessment. Strips and the pool store are notoriously wrong. Giving you advice without having accurate tests, we can actually do more harm.

The other reason for the kit is that when you have algae, we follow the SLAM process. One of these kits is required to successfuly and safely perform a SLAM. Link-->SLAM Process

Also, to test if you have algae, you need the accuracy of these kits to perform an overnight chlorine loss test. Link-->Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

Proof is in the pudding. Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[Rose1234]

Thank you. I apologize and will be buying a better kit!!!

How fast is delivery from TFtestkits? I just ordered the TF-100 Salt test kit with the SLAM option.

Two more questions please:
1. If the algae turns to a "dust cloud" when trying to vacuum, could it still be algae?
2. while doing SLAM and having a salt water pool with a salt water generator, do you need to turn off the generator overnight? The directions say to turn your pump back on for at least 30 minutes prior, but then my salt generator would make more chlorine.

Thank you.

 

[PoolStored]

1. If the algae turns to a "dust cloud" when trying to vacuum, could it still be algae?

Yep.

2. while doing SLAM and having a salt water pool with a salt water generator, do you need to turn off the generator overnight? The directions say to turn your pump back on for at least 30 minutes prior, but then my salt generator would make more chlorine.

Turn the SWCG off during slam. You can turn the % to 0.

 

[PoolStored]

How fast is delivery from TFtestkits?

Pretty quick, 2-3 days?

 

[Rose1234]

Thank you. Will be back to post results as soon as my test kit arrives.

 

[Newdude]

sorry - this just seems like a site to sell test kits

While we have a little downtime, I wanted to touch on this. First off, I entirely understand the position coming in as an outsider and all anybody talks about is starting with a test kit. I didn't have one myself and made it 6+ years just fine without it. It took a minute to understand why it was so important.

But check this out. Back in the day, one of the forum owners was unhappy with the misproportioned Taylor kits with how TFP did things. Folks were throwing out expired CH and TA reagents and replacing FC reagents way early. He had an idea to shuffle the supplies to how we roll, and (an entirely seperate) business was formed.

Here's the thing though, and this is where you can test out our commitment to the cause. While we all recommend TFtestkits as a better value, if you go and buy the 'competition's' test kit, every last helper will happily teach you how to use it. Heck. The former AND also current owner of TFT will be two of the possible helpers that day.

Imagine Ford helping you with the Chevy you purchased ? Or Home Depot teaching you what to do with all the lumber you purchased at Lowes ? Fat chance.

We need to be on the same page, with many forms of testing available. If we're all using Taylor drops (possibly resized through TFtk) then it's like we are standing beside you when you test, and we know what to do with what that kit reports.

All test methods have a variance, and each is different. We need to be 'off' together or we tell you to zig when you shoulda zagged and then you have *2* issues.

Thank you for the leap of faith trusting a bunch of internet strangers. We won't let you down and you're gonna LOVE it here.

 

[Rose1234]

So, I purchased the TF testkit and received. Salt water generator is a Hayward Aquarite and display says 3200 and it is set to about 40. Fiberglass pool about 16,000 gallons.

After testing, these are my numbers:
3,000 ppm salt
FC = 4
CC = 0
TC = 4
Calcium = 75 ppm
Total Alkalinity = 100
CYA - black dot never went away.

Vacuumed the pool on Thursday and sand-looking algae was gone. Poured in 1 gallon of chlorine. Returned home today from weekend away and it does have some at the bottom of the pool already.

Please help.

 

[mknauss]

Follow the SLAM Process. You first need to start dissolving 30 ppm CYA worth of stabilizer using the sock method.
What is your pH? If above 7.5, add acid to lower to 7.2.
Start adding liquid chlorine with target FC of 12 ppm. Check FC and add liquid chlorine every few hours.

 

[PoolStored]

What is your pH?

Follow the SLAM process to clear the pool...Link-->SLAM Process

 

[Rose1234]

Looks very difficult to read but PH looks off the chart. Had hubs hold to sky while I took pic. What should I use to lower ph?

 

[mknauss]

You use muriatic acid to lower pH.
Add enough to lower to 7.4 from 8.2. Let pump circulate for 30 minutes and retest pH. Continue doing that until the pH is 7.5 or lower.

 

[Rose1234]

I am going to have to get some chlorine ... I have this PH reducer stuff, but am unsure of how much to put in for a 16k Gallon pool to reduce to acceptable level of PH. Will edit this and attach pic from my phone.

 

[mknauss]

You can use the dry acid as long as you do not have a SWCG.
Use PoolMath

 

[Rose1234]

We do have a salt water chlorine generator. Is the stuff I posted above ok to use?

 

[mknauss]

We do not recommend using sodium bisulfate in a pool with a SWCG. Sulfates will destroy the coating on the SWCG plates. Manufacturers post the same thing in their owners manuals.