**I HAVE 7 DAYS to get water in good shape. Looking for advice!

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BsPool

Well-known member
May 13, 2015
153
Ohio
Pool company sorted out our previous issues. Filter and pump are running fine.

They only checked these:
Chlorine: 0
Ph: 7 (maybe 7.2)
Alk: 60

The pool is green - but not "swamp" green. I went ahead and added 3 gallons of shock and 1 gallon of regular bleach since I had it here.

I'm still a newb and don't have much time. So looking for advice on what to do next. I assume follow SLAM? I have the 2005 test kit. The FAS-DPD chlorine test probably won't get here until Mon.

Shooting for Memorial Day! :) Thanks in advance![/SIZE][/B][/COLOR]
 
Even though a pool company is probably a bit more reliable than a pool store, I would still take your own readings.

I don't remember ever seeing CYA numbers in your previous post, but I may have missed them. You can't accurately or successfully do a SLAM without knowing your CYA, because it will determine your target FC level. You also can't SLAM without being able to accurately track your FC throughout (so, I would wait on the FAS/DPD test.

When you say 3 gallons of shock, is that liquid chlorine of say 10% or 12.5%, or are there other ingredients?

Did you use PoolMath to determine how much to put in initially, or did you just blindly throw chemicals into the water and hope for the best?

I'm not the most experienced person on the board, but the experienced guys and gals will need to know most of these things, if not more, before they can help.
 
Yes, you need to know your CYA level before you start. The CYA level determines if you need to hold FC at 20ppm or 63ppm (i totally made those numbers up - real numbers are in the CYA/Chlorine chart in the Pool School section). And, if your CYA level is too high, then you may need to do a partail drain/refill before starting the SLAM.

Tons of support on this forum, so don't be afraid to ask any question that comes to mind.
 
Azgirl71 said:
Can you post a full set of results please?
FC
CC
PH
TA
CYA
CH

As already stated your CYA is the key number we need to know before you SLAM PH is also a important number that should be about 7.2 for a SLAM
Click to expand...

I'll be able to test this evening (watching the little ones right now). I'll be sure and test/post for all that I can with the kit that I have. For grins, I checked CYA Weds. I filled the tube all the way up with water from at least 18" deep and the black dot never disappeared (<30).
 
If you really want it clear in 7 days you need to be ready to do a lot of work. You need to raise the FC to SLAM level and keep it there until you pass the OCLT. In the beginning, you'll need to test and add chlorine as often as every hour.

Since you have the K2005 and tested the CYA below 30 I'd use 30ppm as the CYA level to get the shock level. I'd also start SLAMing yesterday At least as soon as you can get out there and test and add chlorine.

P.S. There's no guarantee that you can get it clear and swim ready in seven days by the way.
 
I was able to run down and grab some water from the pool - got some numbers! Not sure if it matters, but I did add 3 gallons of 10% shock and 1 gallon of regular bleach - not sure on %, an hour or so ago.

Here's what I've got:
FC: about 7
CC: about 3
PH: 7.2
TA: 80
CYA: <30 (all the way to the top - could still see black circle)
CH: 100
 
You're going to need the FAS/DPD to accurately maintain your shock level so until that arrives you're probably going to be in a holding pattern. I'm not sure if there's a way to use the chlorine test that comes with the k 2005 somehow to get a higher FC reading like you'll need to SLAM.

While your waiting make sure there's no debris or solid stuff hanging around in the pool and get mentally ready to test and dose very frequently when your FAS/DPD kit arrives.

Aaandd...once you're started, stick to one thread so people who are trying to help can see the history of what's going on and not get confused. :)

Good luck with your SLAM! :)
 
Bama Rambler said:
If you really want it clear in 7 days you need to be ready to do a lot of work. You need to raise the FC to SLAM level and keep it there until you pass the OCLT. In the beginning, you'll need to test and add chlorine as often as every hour.

Since you have the K2005 and tested the CYA below 30 I'd use 30ppm as the CYA level to get the shock level. I'd also start SLAMing yesterday At least as soon as you can get out there and test and add chlorine.

P.S. There's no guarantee that you can get it clear and swim ready in seven days by the way.
Click to expand...

Totally understand, but I'm going to try. Good thing is I'm only working Monday next week and will be off the rest. So I'll be able to pay close attention. Thanks!
 

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Just checked the pressure on the filter and it's up - pushing 30, at about 28. The guy from the pool company said the pressure will first rise when the filter starts to get dirty and that I should bump it using the handle. I tried - but can barely move it. Maybe I missed something. Does the pump need to be turned off to bump it? Or - he showed me how to back wash. Do you think I should go ahead and do that?

Got 4 cases of shock. Going to go ahead and drop a case in.

Edit: Just answered my own question. I DO need to turn the pump off to bump. I'll give it a try.

Edit: SUCCESSFUL BUMP! Dropped - started back up just over 20.
 
If I were going to try this without a FAS-DPD test, I would get a cheap OTO chlorine (shades of yellow) chlorine test (the K-2005 comes with a DPD shades of pink chlorine test, which tends to be easier on the eyes to match than the OTO, but which bleaches out at high chlorine levels unlike the OTO which just gets darker.

There is at least one thread on extended range colors for the OTO test kit, off the scale of the color comparator block
http://www.troublefreepool.com/archive/index.php/t-58831.html notes this is a last ditch effort, not suggesting it to be a good idea.
 
BsPool said:
I'll be able to test this evening (watching the little ones right now). I'll be sure and test/post for all that I can with the kit that I have. For grins, I checked CYA Weds. I filled the tube all the way up with water from at least 18" deep and the black dot never disappeared (<30).
Click to expand...

I noticed something while reading this and want to double check it. When you say you filled the tube with water from 18" deep, you mean you mixed water from 18" deep with the CYA reagent and then filled the tube, correct?
 
Donldson said:
I noticed something while reading this and want to double check it. When you say you filled the tube with water from 18" deep, you mean you mixed water from 18" deep with the CYA reagent and then filled the tube, correct?
Click to expand...

Yep. Only stated that to prevent the question - since it's listed as part of the testing procedure on the kit.

- - - Updated - - -

Isaac-1 said:
If I were going to try this without a FAS-DPD test, I would get a cheap OTO chlorine (shades of yellow) chlorine test (the K-2005 comes with a DPD shades of pink chlorine test, which tends to be easier on the eyes to match than the OTO, but which bleaches out at high chlorine levels unlike the OTO which just gets darker.

There is at least one thread on extended range colors for the OTO test kit, off the scale of the color comparator block
http://www.troublefreepool.com/archive/index.php/t-58831.html notes this is a last ditch effort, not suggesting it to be a good idea.
Click to expand...

Great to know - thanks!!
 
BsPool said:
Just checked the pressure on the filter and it's up - pushing 30, at about 28. The guy from the pool company said the pressure will first rise when the filter starts to get dirty and that I should bump it using the handle. I tried - but can barely move it. Maybe I missed something. Does the pump need to be turned off to bump it? Or - he showed me how to back wash. Do you think I should go ahead and do that?

Got 4 cases of shock. Going to go ahead and drop a case in.

Edit: Just answered my own question. I DO need to turn the pump off to bump. I'll give it a try.

Edit: SUCCESSFUL BUMP! Dropped - started back up just over 20.
Click to expand...

Do you know what your clean pressure is? You should backwash when your pressure is 20-25% over your clean pressure.
 
Sat morning update...

Everything going well - at least visually and with the filter. Water looks WAY better! The green has lightened and I can see the entire bottom. Right now, since I don't have the FAS/DPD test I've been paying really close attention to the filter pressure. I got up throughout the night bumping and shocking. I also dropped the Dolphin in - which did a fantastic job getting the floor clean and must say is pretty freaking cool!

Here's the specifics - please stop me if you see something I should change! This may be a lot of detail, sorry if it's not that exciting ;) But, I like to post the info - it'll help me keep track. Thanks again all!

Fri/Sat (5pm to 7am): 4 cases of 10% shock total. Each time a "bump" is listed that means the pressure was up on the filter - which I equated to the filter working and eating up "dirt".
5:15pm: Shocked - First case of 10%
6pm: Dolphin dropped in (with bags)
7pm: Pressure up on filter. Successful bump. FC level: 7 or so. Shocked - 2nd case of 10%.
8pm: Pressure up, bumped again.
8:45pm: Dolphin cleaned and dropped back in.
9pm: FC test - at this point realizing how pointless the test I have is for this - regardless, FC showed darker - guessing 10 or so?? Filter bumped again. Scrubbed all sides VERY well. This really added a ton of crud to the water. I could see it all really well since it was dark and the pool light was on. At this point, I adjusted the jets to create a swirl back to the skimmer. I knew what I did helped when the chlorine tablet "floaty thing" started riding the wall towards the skimmer again and again. The flow towards the skimmer was MUCH BETTER and all of the crud was going directly towards it!
9:30pm: Shocked - 3rd case of 10%
10:15pm: Bumped. Pressure not all that high this time 26ish vs nearly 30. Hoping that meant less "dirt" was entering the system.
---
12:30am: Half asleep and too dark to see pressure, bumped anyway.
2am: Bumped.
3:30am: Bumped. Shocked - 4th case of 10%
7am: Not a good prime and pressure gauge "bouncy" at 24ish. Bump fixed prime and pressure no longer bouncy. FC level: Guessing 9 or so. Hard to tell. The good thing, it was definitely darker, meaning the levels were at least getting higher. Dolphin dropped in for small stuff - with filters vs bags.

It's nearly 8am and I'm out of shock. Going to get more soon and will continue to shock based on filter pressure - that way I at least have some kind of "measure".
 
WHOA! I was able to pick up the OTO test...

Tested at 10:15: Orangish Red! My guess based on the link above is that my FC is pushing 20. Thoughts? I'll layoff on any more shocking for now.
 
OP, from one (while slightly less now) frustrated pool owner to another, you have to listen to what these guys and ladies tell you. I came too late, and didnt get ours ready in time for my baby's birthday party, but made more progress in just a few days than I had in 2 weeks listening to the pool store. Getting the kit they suggested, and reading pool school has been one of the most empowering things I have done for myself regarding this pool. Do yourself a favor... get the kit, read pool school, and the abc's. They will get you on track. I may be speaking out of turn here because I am still a noob as well, and if so Im sorry.
 

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