How to proceed with a new, totally out of balance pool?

[Heard]

The pool has just been completed and started up about 2 weeks ago.
13000 gallons, SWG, tiled all around, overflow edge.
Current chemistry:

PH - 7.8
Total Alcalinity - 165
Calcium - 112
CYA - 30
Free Chlorine - 3.6

I'm not really concerned with low CYA at the moment.
My question is related to very low Calcium and very High Alcalinity.

What should I start with dealing first?
Lower Alcalinity down (via muriatic acid), or increase Calcium up (calcium chloride}?

Thank you!

 

[Texas Splash]

You want a higher CH level of at least 250. If you get a lot of rain and water exchange maybe a CH of 350 would be better. You can work on the TA later.

 

[duraleigh]

Lower you ALK with the acid/aeration method found in Pool School. Get down around 90 or less. 60 is probably ideal.

I would then bring the CH up to around 250 or so.

Keep in mind those results may likely be unreliable. Did a pool store do them?

 

[Newdude]

What should I start with dealing first?

You should start with getting a reliable test kit. The TF-pro-salt is the hands down winner once you add all the components to the other kits.

Test Kits Compared

 

[ajw22]

Note to all that have not yet had their allocation of morning coffee that @Heard location is SE ASIA

 

[ajw22]

What should I start with dealing first?
Lower Alcalinity down (via muriatic acid), or increase Calcium up (calcium chloride}?

Do them both.

Order does not matter.

You can be adjusting both simultaneously.

 

[ajw22]

What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?

Use our tool to find ideal chemical levels for any swimming pool. Check TFP recommended levels on pH, free chlorine, cyanuric acid, and more.

www.troublefreepool.com

Lower Total Alkalinity

A lower Total Alkalinity level can help a pool owner stabalize their pH increase. We'll explain how to lower TA with a little help from muriatic acid.

www.troublefreepool.com

Recommended Pool Chemicals

Which should I buy? TFP's recommended pool chemicals are cheap, easy, and won't unbalance your pool water.

www.troublefreepool.com

How long to wait between adding pool chemicals

The wait times between adding pool chemicals is usually around 10 minutes each, as that is also sufficient time for the chemicals to mix in the water.

www.troublefreepool.com

Calcium Hardness - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Heard]

Note to all that have not yet had their allocation of morning coffee that @Heard location is SE ASIA

Thank you for pointing it out.
I've emailed the TFTeam while shopping for testing kits.
They don't ship to Asia.

This is the only test "kit" that is available for purchase locally.

I wasn't able to locate Taylor kits available for delivery either.
The only other available for purchase option was the Pool eXact EZ photometer.
This is what I'm using at the moment.

 

[PoolStored]

This is the only test "kit" that is available for purchase locally.

Where are you locate in SE Asia?

 

[Heard]

Lower you ALK with the acid/aeration method found in Pool School. Get down around 90 or less. 60 is probably ideal.

I would then bring the CH up to around 250 or so.

Keep in mind those results may likely be unreliable. Did a pool store do them?

I know you guys recommend the reliable TFT kits.
At the moment I don't really have any other option for testing other than the eXact EZ photometer.
Shouldn't it be all that bad since it's NSF/ANSI 50 L1 Certified?

Pool eXact® EZ Photometer

Test your pool water with the Pool eXact EZ Photometer

sensafe.com

 

[Heard]

Where are you locate in SE Asia?

Thailand

 

[PoolStored]

Thailand

Can you get test kits from Clear Choice Labs – Simple. Accurate. Fast.

 

[Heard]

Can you get test kits from Clear Choice Labs – Simple. Accurate. Fast.

"Currently, we are only shipping internationally to New Zealand."

 

[mknauss]

So you are in a dilemma. Poor testing. So you deal with what you got.
So IF the TA and CH numbers are correct, the high TA is saving your grout (assume it is cement based) from the low CH. IF the pH stays stable, and IF you believe the numbers you are getting, leave it. You have a SWCG it says, so keep the OTO test results a very dark yellow. That should imply you have a good TC level.
Do you have cheap/plentiful fresh water? Is salt low cost?

 

[Heard]

So you are in a dilemma. Poor testing. So you deal with what you got.
So IF the TA and CH numbers are correct, the high TA is saving your grout (assume it is cement based) from the low CH. IF the pH stays stable, and IF you believe the numbers you are getting, leave it. You have a SWCG it says, so keep the OTO test results a very dark yellow. That should imply you have a good TC level.
Do you have cheap/plentiful fresh water? Is salt low cost?

The grout is portland cement based.
I have plenty of good quality, fresh water.
Salt is low cost.
Sorry, I don't quite quite understand.
Are you suggesting not to try to lower TA and instead leave it alone?
I'm all set to start adding muriatic acid, starting with today.

In the last few days I've noticed that my pump's see-through "window" has changed its properties.
It used to be completely clear.
Now it got an opaque, frosty look.
Related to high TA?

 

[mknauss]

Are you suggesting not to try to lower TA and instead leave it alone?

Again - IF you believe your numbers, the TA is protecting the grout with the low CH. If you lower TA, you need to add calcium. Do you have a source of calcium?

Related to high TA?

No. Appears to be a suction side air leak. Do you have air coming out of the returns?

I asked about water and salt because if this pool goes cloudy due to algae or you have other chemistry issues, you will need to drain, clean, and refill. You do not have the testing equipment to recover the water to safe levels.

 

[Heard]

Again - IF you believe your numbers, the TA is protecting the grout with the low CH. If you lower TA, you need to add calcium. Do you have a source of calcium?

No. Appears to be a suction side air leak. Do you have air coming out of the returns?

I asked about water and salt because if this pool goes cloudy due to algae or you have other chemistry issues, you will need to drain, clean, and refill. You do not have the testing equipment to recover the water to safe levels.

Thank you for the clarification.
I did order quite a bit of calcium chloride.
It's readily available over here at reasonable prices.

And you're absolutely correct.
I do have a slight suction side air leak (bubbles are present).
My pool builder is going to replace the troubled check valve that appears to be leaking air.
It's been initially contaminated with glue during the pipe install and then got stuck open shortly after the start of the pool.
The air bubbles appearance coincided with the check valve reinstall.
OK,
I'll start adding acid and calcium.
And keep testing with what I have.

 

[ajw22]

Heed Marty’s warning that if you get algae you will find it difficult to impossible to get the water sanitary again.

That means run your FC on the high side of TFP recommendations.

How do you chlorinate your pool?

With CYA 30 I would keep the FC at 5-6. That may be difficult to know with a test kit that only goes up to 3 ppm. But you will need to improvise and do accurate dilution of the sample by 50% and see if you get 3 ppm of FC.

 

[Heard]

How do you chlorinate your pool?

With CYA 30 I would keep the FC at 5-6. That may be difficult to know with a test kit that only goes up to 3 ppm. But you will need to improvise and do accurate dilution of the sample by 50% and see if you get 3 ppm of FC.

I chlorinate with an oversized SWG, running at 30% of capacity, yielding 3.5 of FC at present.
My testing device (photometer) is supposed to be accurate up to FC 6.
OK
I'll bump up chlorine production and start adding CYA as soon as it arrives (it's in shipping).
Plan on attaining and keeping CYA in the 50-60 range.
Or should it be 40-50?
The pool gets full shade after 2:30 pm

 

[ajw22]

Target CYA 60 and keep your FC at least 10% of CYA. That is a FC of 6-8.

That gives you room to have a SWG problem and catch it before your FC drops below the minimum of 3.

That is the 5% of CYA you read about. That is an minimum. You cannot run your FC at that level day to day without getting bit when your FC drops for some reason. You need to keep your FC high enough that your SWG can be dead for a day or two before you discover it.

At a CYA of 60 you are safe up to a FC of 24. However your pH test becomes invalid and can read high when FC is over 10.

So with your photometer accurate to FC of 6 then running your FC at the top of what youc an measure is best for you.