How to Fix Leak on Suction Side Valve under Automated Controller

Jul 8, 2018
108
Austin, TX
It's take a bit of troubleshooting, but I finally figured out why I'm getting air in my pump and lines. Turns out I have a leak in the valve on the suction side of the pump. This has resulted in LOTs of air in my system. At low running speeds it has sucked in so much air that the pump is void of water in about 45 seconds or so, and it kicks into high to suck water back in.

I found the leak by using the soapy water test. After about 15 seconds of spraying the soapy water in between the automated controller box sitting on top of the valve and the valve unit itself (see photo), it stocks sucking in air and quickly results in no more air pockets.

Before I take it apart, my question is: what should I look for when taking it apart, and how might I fix it. I know if it's cracked, I'll have to replace the valve entirely, correct? But could it just be a o-ring problem? I'm not sure it looks like, and I hate taking things apart with no leads on how to fix, so any advice here in advance is greatly appreciated. Regardless, I'll try my hand it later and report back on what I find.
 

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The actuator lifts off the valve after you remove the handle and the four screws mounting it to the valve.

I am assuming you have a Jandy valve and not Pentair or Hayward.

Parts breakdown can be found at https://app.redpepperdigital.net/a10/publications/2022-product-catalog-no-price/290-291

There are three O rings in the valve - parts 5 & 6.

If the top or diverter is cracked you may find it less expensive buying a new valve and pulling out the parts you need then the parts individually.

The housing rarely cracks. But hand thread the screws and don't use power tools on the screws. What cracks are the screw holes if they are cross threaded or over tightened.


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Thank you both for the reply, and sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I've ordered the parts and are waiting for them to arrive. I decided to take the actuator off yesterday to if I could figure it out. Lightly pressing on the top of the diverter immediately caused more air leakage into the pump, so I'm guessing it's a bad seal. I've ordered those, along with a new cover, and hoping that does the trick. I didn't see any visible signs of cracking in the cover nor the housing, but the casing is simple to replace, so I figured may as well while I'm at it.

I'll give another update in a couple of days.

I appreciate the direction and recommendations!
 
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Good news! Looks like that (mostly) fixed it. There's a few bubbles in there now, but I think it's from the return side (probably a rock or something keeping the backflow flap from closing.

The problem was the top o-ring on the diverter stem.

Thanks again for the advice and help!
 
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