hi,I recently moved into a home with a pool of 30,000 gallons, I’ve done my fair share of research bought all the chemicals and so forth, I superclorinated the pool when I first moved in with about 25 gallons of liquid chlorine which killed the algae in the pool And turn it from dark green to a navy blue, I excessively brushed and manually vacuumed my pool but the water remained very murky, i waited till my chlorine levels drop to nearly 0 and balanced my ph and alkalinity then added about 3 pounds of shock to raise my chlorine levels back to 2-3ppm tonight, I will be adding flocculent in the morning to combat the murky water but I noticed every time I would vacuum I’d stick the end of my vacuum hose in the return jet to remove the air inside it, my question is with the pump off when I let the flocc sit for the day how do I remove the air from the vacuum so I will get good suction when time comes to vacuum to waste, will the return jets run when set to waste? Will the air bubbles from the vacuum kick up the dirt if I try to prime it that way?, I don’t want to mess this up when I add the flocculent so please help me out, I will be using cloroxx brand sink to clear for my flocculent of choice.
How do I remove bubbles from vacuum when flocking the pool
- Thread starter Swimfactor
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,309
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Welcome to the forum!
PLEASE do not use Floc! It will make a mess.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
PLEASE do not use Floc! It will make a mess.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF-100 A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
While you are waiting on your test kit, add 5 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine / plain bleach to your pool each evening with the pump running. This will replenish the FC lost each day to the sun and also inhibit any algae in the water from growing further.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.
Hi, I bought a Taylor k-2006 test kit, I already purchased the flocculent and watch a lot of videos of it in action,I’ve had my sand filter running for days now 24/7 and the water is still murky, I’ve tested all my chemical levels and they are ok, why don’t you recommend using flocculent?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,309
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Floc is instant gratification for long term pain. It rarely is vacuumed out in one pass. You will have to leave it set several times over a couple days and vac to waste each time. If any gets in your sand filter, it can gum up and make the need to change the sand.
The SLAM Process works. No magic. Just a bit of time and chlorine. You have a good test kit. Use it.
The SLAM Process works. No magic. Just a bit of time and chlorine. You have a good test kit. Use it.
I understand but I’m short on money as these chemicals are very expensive, I have about 9 pounds of granular shock left and nothing but time on my hands, i would vacuum as much as needed if that is what is required and won’t turn the filter to nothing but recirculate and waste for about 4-5 days, will that do the job or do you still think I’m messing up big time using flocculent?
- May 3, 2014
- 58,309
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I understand but I’m in too deep,my question still stands, how would I remove the air from my vacuum without the return jets?
Have you ever used gorilla glue?
Floc is sort of the pool equivalent. It glues stuff together real good but it gets everywhere and glues everything it touches and cleanup is a bear.
But you seem determined. So to answer your question: set the vacuum in the pool and slowly push the hose underwater, so it goes in vertically. That will push all the air out. Then you can slide t over and through the skimmer and connect it.
Let us know how the cleanup goes.
Floc is sort of the pool equivalent. It glues stuff together real good but it gets everywhere and glues everything it touches and cleanup is a bear.
But you seem determined. So to answer your question: set the vacuum in the pool and slowly push the hose underwater, so it goes in vertically. That will push all the air out. Then you can slide t over and through the skimmer and connect it.
Let us know how the cleanup goes.
Update:my pool is 30,000 gallons, I added 24oz per recommendation of the label, went to bed, I woke up 12 hours later to find that the shallow end of my pool was now clear that I could see the bottom well, no doubt it worked , but the deep end of my pool went from milky to hazy and I could barely see the bottom, i wait another 6 hours check again and it looks the same. I don’t know if the flocculant has worked to its fullest potential yet, my question is should I wait till the morning vacuum it out and pour another bottle or should I add the bottle now on top of the flock I had added 18 hours ago.
Most people here will recommend against using any flocculant at all. What is the issue you are trying to address with it?
Flying Tivo
TFP Guide
- Jan 24, 2017
- 2,927
- Pool Size
- 7500
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
99% of the time Milky water means algae. Floc wont clear algae, SLAM Process will but this is not what you want to hear. Please post test result of your water with your taylor kit.
Like this:
FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA
Temp
If you can please do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Also please fill in your signature with your pool specs. You say you have time, so what is the hurry in trying to clear it up?
Like this:
FC
CC
PH
TA
CH
CYA
Temp
If you can please do an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
Also please fill in your signature with your pool specs. You say you have time, so what is the hurry in trying to clear it up?
LoneWolfArcher
Bronze Supporter
Swimfactor, I too came here a year ago with murky water. Watched youtube videos on clearing water. Went and bought a bottle of FLOC, but something in the back of my head was telling me not to put it in. Then I found TFP. The first advice I got was NOT to us FLOC. And I am glad I did because with a cartridge filter, the $20 of FLOC would have cost me $160+ in buying a new cartridge (I can't vacuum to waste with my setup).
The advice here is counter to pool "experts" like pool store employees and pool service folks. But you have to remember, their goal is to sell you products and make money. Plus the pool service guys can only spend an hour or two a week with your pool so they look for easy, fast, longer-lasting techniques. LC is closer to a daily thing.
Anyway, after some initial resistance due to cost and what I had already bought (I bought 24 bags of power shock, and a tub of 3" pucks, FLOC, and couple of other things), I finally listened to the advice here, got my testkit per recommended, switched to LC, and my pool cleared up, and was beautiful all year last year! This year, after opening, the filter has been running 24x7 and the pool is clearing nicely!
So if I compare following pool store, and youtube advice the first year I owned this pool, to following the advice here, it was NIGHT and DAY! I hated my pool the first year. Last year I fell in love with my pool because of the advice here. Cut your losses, listen to the advice, in the long run your money and time will be saved by the methods espoused here! FLOC will require you to do a complete replacement of your filter sand. Your best bet with murky water is to SLAM, brush, vacuum, let the filter run 24x7, and within a few days time your pool will be sparkling!
The advice here is counter to pool "experts" like pool store employees and pool service folks. But you have to remember, their goal is to sell you products and make money. Plus the pool service guys can only spend an hour or two a week with your pool so they look for easy, fast, longer-lasting techniques. LC is closer to a daily thing.
Anyway, after some initial resistance due to cost and what I had already bought (I bought 24 bags of power shock, and a tub of 3" pucks, FLOC, and couple of other things), I finally listened to the advice here, got my testkit per recommended, switched to LC, and my pool cleared up, and was beautiful all year last year! This year, after opening, the filter has been running 24x7 and the pool is clearing nicely!
So if I compare following pool store, and youtube advice the first year I owned this pool, to following the advice here, it was NIGHT and DAY! I hated my pool the first year. Last year I fell in love with my pool because of the advice here. Cut your losses, listen to the advice, in the long run your money and time will be saved by the methods espoused here! FLOC will require you to do a complete replacement of your filter sand. Your best bet with murky water is to SLAM, brush, vacuum, let the filter run 24x7, and within a few days time your pool will be sparkling!
LoneWolfArcher
Bronze Supporter
So to your first question. What I do to remove air bubbles is I put my hose into the pool, then hold both ends under water, and hold the one end of the hose up to a return inlet until all of the air is blown out of the hose. I then hook one end of the hose to my vacuum head and let it sink to the bottom, while holding the other end underwater entirely until I plug it in to the vacuum port.
This should remove 97% or more of the air int he hose. And you should be good to go.
This should remove 97% or more of the air int he hose. And you should be good to go.
before i get bombarded by people telling me not to use flocc, thank you for looking out but i have already used it
i have a 30,000 gallon pool i flocced and vacuumed 2 and a half days ago
I have a sand filter
how long after flocculant is administered should i wait to revert my sand filter back to the filter setting
please and thank you
i have a 30,000 gallon pool i flocced and vacuumed 2 and a half days ago
I have a sand filter
how long after flocculant is administered should i wait to revert my sand filter back to the filter setting
please and thank you
Is there still floc in the bottom of the pool? I would think you could have turned it on by now. Before I knew better the 2 times I flocked I would vacuum once, let it rest a little while longer, vacuum again, , backwash, and then set it right back to filter and run as normal.
I’ve vacuumed about 3 times now and have refilled a lot of water, I just keep letting it sit and every 12 hours I come back I’m still seeing the flocculant pull stuff down to the bottom, each time a lot less, I just got done vacuuming the third time and I’m also slamming my pool at the same time to keep chlorine levels high,do you think it’s safe now for my sand filter with the little amount of flocculant still left in the water, I just think the less the better, but as an update the water is beyond crystal clear now, I could see the bottom so well
When I finish vacuuming I add the shock then set my pump to recirculate to distribute the shock wait 2 hours turn it off and let it sit all over again