We just opened our pool. Everything was fine then we noticed the PSI was high. We checked the skimmer lines, the filter basket and propeller to make sure there wasn’t a blockage. We backwashed and cleaned the filter. The pressure came down but then went back up. We checked the valve, the gauge and even replaced the slats in our DE filter. We thought that solved the problem but a little while later the pressure rose again. Don’t know what else to do? What’s wrong?
High Pressure
- Thread starter Ugh100
- Start date
Welcome to the TFP forum. Can you provide some additional info such what is make and model of the filter, what do you consider "high pressure", what was the "normal" pressure that you had before or targeting and how much rise in pressure did you see from when you cleaned and how much time does it take for the pressure to rise?
Sorry for all the questions but there are so many variables we need to understand the norm vs what is happening.
Also, pictures help.
High filter pressure occurs if something downstream is closed or partially closed causing back pressure on the system, a dirty filter grid, a bad gauge or a blocked gauge. Also, is water flowing out each of your returns in the pool?
Sorry for all the questions but there are so many variables we need to understand the norm vs what is happening.
Also, pictures help.
High filter pressure occurs if something downstream is closed or partially closed causing back pressure on the system, a dirty filter grid, a bad gauge or a blocked gauge. Also, is water flowing out each of your returns in the pool?
- Jul 9, 2016
- 227
- Pool Size
- 24000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pureline Crystal Pure 60,000
Also, you did not mention what your water looks like. Is is clear? Is it green? Can you see the bottom? If you are currently filtering out a lot of sediment and other nasty stuff then frequent filter pressure increases is normal and just requires frequent cleaning/backwashing of your filter.
Thank-you. It’s a Hayward DE 3620. Normal pressures around 16-17. High pressure 30. It wasn’t coming down much at all. So we purchased new filter slats because they were quite old. It’s seemed to help at first but then about an hour to three hours later it came back up. I did vacuum a lot of sediment but we backwashed then it still came up. We also changed the gauge as well.
The water is a bit aqua green not really dark but not completely clear yet. It’s not foggy we can see the bottom.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,104
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
You don't have a pump or filter issue, you have a chemistry issue.
What testkit are you using?
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended testkits.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temperature
How are you chlorinating the pool?
Update your signature with your pool and equipment specs (including model numbers). Add your testkit also.
What testkit are you using?
Post a full set of current test results from one of the recommended testkits.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Water temperature
How are you chlorinating the pool?
Update your signature with your pool and equipment specs (including model numbers). Add your testkit also.
I usually take the water to the pool store and they test it and tell me what I need. We haven’t even gotten that far in the process after opening. We’re just trying to get all the debris out. Which we have now. So I was going to take the water in today to see what we need. We have a salt pool. We’ve just been afraid to keep the filter running -worried the pressure will go to high over night.
- Feb 6, 2015
- 6,104
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Sounds like you need to SLAM Process
In order to do that, you will need one of the recommended Test Kits Compared
Pool store test results are notoriously wrong and/or inconsistent.
TFP will not offer advice based on pool store test results.
Suggest you read thru ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
In order to do that, you will need one of the recommended Test Kits Compared
Pool store test results are notoriously wrong and/or inconsistent.
TFP will not offer advice based on pool store test results.
Suggest you read thru ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry
Appears after you backwash or clean filter you turn on pump and more debris just gets caught again. Even though you can see the bottom you are having new debris (algae) captured which is raising your filter pressure.
As indicated by others you really need to purchase 10 gals or more of liquid chlorine to get rid of the algae and you can either vacuum it or continue to backwash your filter after each pressure rise. 25- 30psi would be a good stopping point to then backwash and start again. Are you adding DE powder to your filter after you backwash?
The reason you should not go to a pool store is that they will sell you a bunch of chemicals you do not need to clean up your green pool. You could spend $300 on their method or maybe $75 (for liquid chlorine and possibly muriatic acid) via TFP and a little patience to follow the SLAM Process
However it is important that you have a proper test kit to get the correct chemistry for your pool.
The TFP is a methodology that is unique but thousands of people on the forum know it works and it has minimal cost.
So you really need to take that next step to follow TFP or just work with your pool store and hope for the best.