High pH Question

[SPKNout4CHRIST]

I am working on getting the pool opened and the pH is high - tested much brighter than the 8.2 on the gauge. I added 3 cups of MA per Pool Math to bring it to 7.4 and waited a little over 2 hours and tested again. Still much brighter than 8.2 on the gauge.

I know my kit is at least, if not slightly over, a year old. A new one is on the way along with the pH meter.

Is it possible that it was way over 8.2 and I still need to add more MA? Could the regents be old and showing a higher pH than is actual? Should I wait for the kit to arrive or go ahead and add more MA? Thanks!

 

[mknauss]

What is your FC? Be sure it is at or under 10 ppm for accurate pH testing

The reagent for pH testing is pretty stable. So it is likely accurate. Just keep doing your iteration until your pH reads in the 7's. Be sure to test TA and input that into Poolmath as it is needed for how much acid to use for a specific pH drop.

 

[SPKNout4CHRIST]

What is your FC? Be sure it is at or under 10 ppm for accurate pH testing

The reagent for pH testing is pretty stable. So it is likely accurate. Just keep doing your iteration until your pH reads in the 7's. Be sure to test TA and input that into Poolmath as it is needed for how much acid to use for a specific pH drop.

0 as evidenced by the green pool - I let some warm weather sneak up on me. No fault of the TFP method, just my own oversight

Will test the TA now and dose again as needed.

Want to get pH where it needs to be and backwash the filter so I can SLAM once my VS pump arrives later this week. Using the leaky pump in the meantime to keep the water circulating.

 

[mknauss]

Add 5 ppm FC worth of bleach every day to get a start ahead of the SLAM.

 

[SPKNout4CHRIST]

Add 5 ppm FC worth of bleach every day to get a start ahead of the SLAM.

Okay, will do. Thanks!

 

[SPKNout4CHRIST]

What is your FC? Be sure it is at or under 10 ppm for accurate pH testing

The reagent for pH testing is pretty stable. So it is likely accurate. Just keep doing your iteration until your pH reads in the 7's. Be sure to test TA and input that into Poolmath as it is needed for how much acid to use for a specific pH drop.

I added 3 doses yesterday to bring down the pH. So, 9 cups of MA total and I am still getting a bright pink on the test. Is it possible that the pH is that high? I know it wasn't adjusted at the end of last season...

 

[mknauss]

Be careful. You added a large amount of chlorine. What is your FC?

 

[SPKNout4CHRIST]

Be careful. You added a large amount of chlorine. What is your FC?

I added enough to get it to 5PPM. I tested this morning (using the K1000 as my TF100 update is on the way) and it was 5PPM best I could tell. I guess it could be higher, but only added enough to get to 5PPM based on PoolMath.

 

[mknauss]

Ok. With your TA of 40, your pH cannot be very high.
I know you need to SLAM. But the pH and TA results do not make sense.

 

[SPKNout4CHRIST]

Ok. With your TA of 40, your pH cannot be very high.
I know you need to SLAM. But the pH and TA results do not make sense.

I think I will just maintain my 5ppm of chlorine until my kit arrives and then do a full test. It should be here today or tomorrow.

My TA always seems to come out to 40 and pH always seems to be high. I always seem to struggle to get it in the 7's. I opted to get the pH meter this time around to see if I can keep a closer check on it.

Does this approach make sense?

 

[mknauss]

Sounds good. The data is not consistent right now.

 

[SPKNout4CHRIST]

To make sure I am not going crazy, I tested my tap water pH and am getting 7.5. I'll wait and see how the full test results turn out.