High Cyanuric Acid and phosphates

Well it's seems like I tried but may have failed.

Last time I went on a 3 days trip I put 3 tablets and raised the FC to 20% of the CYA. When I can3 back more than 50% of the tablets were not dissolved and I came back to a 4ppm which the low end of my FC range everything was cool.

This time I went on a 11days trip, I put 5 tablets and raised the FC to 20% of the CYA. I came back to an FC of .5 ppm and no tablets in the floater!

So obviously I have 2 questions:
1- Where was I wrong in my estimate and what should I do next time?
2- I don't see any sign of algae and I usually lose 4ppm per day. What should I do to prevent algae? I just added 182oz of LC at 10% to raise ny FC to 10ppm (my goal in a normal setup is 8ppm)

If you'd prefer I start a new thread, I'll do that.
Thanks
 
11 days is a long time without intervention.
You should plan on getting a SWCG if you are planning more extended absences.
Follow your plan on the FC and see how things look.
 

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As I remember you do NOT have Pentair automation, correct?
Without automation, you can get any brand SWCG. You would need a timer of some sort to control it as the pump will not control another device. Circupool gets good reviews. There is the random issue, but overall the products have not had issues with most members whom have them. They have several models. You want one that is rated for a 40K gallon pool at a minimum.

Would you be able to install it or would you hire someone to install?
 
As you know I came back to an FC level of .5ppm, I raised it to 10ppm. The next evening, I had 3ppm and raised it to 9.5 ppm and tonight I am at 4ppm.
Should I just raise it to 8ppm since that was my previous desired value or should I go higher due to the heat? High today was 109.
How many ppm is everyone losing per day on average this time of the year?

Regarding the SWCG, i don't know what pentair automation is and what installing the SWCG requires in order to do it myself.
What price range are we talking about for self install vs contractor installed?
Thanks
 
Raise your FC back to upper target range. The heat is not as much of a consumer of FC as the UV is. And it is actually on the way down from summer peak. My pool is starting to use less FC per day versus the peak. But still up around 4 ppm loss per day.

Pentair automation allows you to control your Intelliflo pump, a future SWCG, etc in concert. If you are really interested in a SWCG, more research in using something like the IntelliConnect with an IC40 for your system. Cost will be dependent on if you install (with a reduced warranty) or hire a professional to install. My rough guess would be about $1500 if you install and close to $2500 for a professional install.
 
So it seems like if I raise it to 9.5ppm (which is higher than the top of my range), I am down to 4ppm in the evening. Basically 5.5ppm loss per day 😢 Too much?
I will research more about the SWCG, I'll get back to you. At $2,500 and about $8.10 per 2 galloons of CL, seems like I will get my money back after about 4 years?
 
That is a little high on the FC loss. But we are in the heart of summer. The liquid chlorine could also be bit degraded too.

We state that the SWCG equates in cost to using liquid chlorine. The convenience factor is what makes the SWCG win out.
 
At $2,500 and about $8.10 per 2 galloons of CL, seems like I will get my money back after about 4 years?
Unless you install it yourself.... then the ROI is quicker, like 3 years... .. and if the cell lasts longer.. its free chlorine time! :whoot:

I installed my SWG, ala DIY, so I figured the ROI was about 3 years... and the first cell lasted just over 9 years. That's 6 years of free chlorine.. but if I factor in the amount of time I saved maintaining my pool, I paid it off in the first year.
 
Thank you for your feedback. Was the DIY install hard? I'll research it too.

Regarding my FC, I am dropping 5.5 to 6.6ppm per day. At what point should I be worried.

And yes it was hot today and yesterday, both highs were 115 and my CL may be a little old 20147.
Thanks
 
Good afternoon,
We build a pool two years ago and I was not given enough instruCtions from the builder. All I have done is maitaining chlorine and checking with a paper strip the different levels.
I recently noticed the chlorine being close to zero and my attempt to increase it for the last 2 weeks has not been successful. I took some water to the pool store and they told me I have to drain the entire pool.
I live in AZ and the temperature is 109 today and will not drop below 95 until 1am. I do not want to risk damaging the pebble on an almost new pool.
Any advice will be appreciated. Here are my result per the store analysis:
Free chlorine: 0.11
Total chlorine: 0.17
pH: 6.8
Total Alkalinity: 0 (adjusted due to CYA)
Calcium Hardness: 234
Cyanuric Acid: 234
Iron: 0.1
Copper: 0.3
Phosphates: 4000
TDS: 2400

Do I need to drain the pool and how can I do it safely? Should I consider partial drain starting at 1am due to temperature? Is it the overall air temperature that could damage the pebble or the actuall sun exposure, basically can start draining at sunset or do I need to wait until temp is below 90?

I am going to spend some time on the forum reading as much as can to learn about how to keep the water balanced...etc Any pointers to articles or specific answer to my questions will be appreciated.
Thank you!
I have used. Company to come in And perform a sort of Reverse Osmosis process to recondition my pool. With water restrictions we were foresee to no longer drain our pool every couple years. The water gets hard, the CYA gets to high and then the work gets harder. Look for a company that has a mobile pool clearing trailer. They park the trailer out front, set the hoses and their pump And return lines, then run it overnight. We can still use the pool in the meantime. It costs about $700 and the pool is good for another three years. It costs me about 3000 gallons of water waste, but that was must better than 25,000 gallons. just look for a mobile reverse osmosis company like Pure Water out of California.
 

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