Hi from Texas

Also keep in mind that 2 inches of rain, which is usually more than we get at once, will only dilute a 60 inch average depth pool by 1/30th. Not enough to even notice.

A 6 inch monster of a storm will only dilute you 10%, and your FC should not have been that close to min under any circumstances anyway.

The key is circulation. For those running a schedule, it may be 16 hours before the pump kicks back on and 0 FC rain water may go funky on top.

Got it. I will target the higher end of the fc range starting tomorrow. I’m also currently running my pump 24/7 because of our heat pump (it’s dropping to the 50s at night but nearly 90 during the day).
 
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I will target the higher end of the fc range starting tomorrow.
If you really want to be safe, dose above range, so that WHEN YOU TEST, you are in range...that way you never fall below range. FC is safe for people and equipment up to SLAM level FC for your CYA.
 
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Look at all the wiggle room between high target and SLAM. Then look at the little wiggle room between low target and min.

lc_chart.jpg

Its not such a big deal early and late in the season with minimal loss, but during the season you may need to dose over target just to stay above min at the end of the day.

Many of us prefer to land back in mid target, treating 'low target' as our minimum. Then when an unexpected FC loss event happens, we had the wiggle room for it.
 
Got it. I will target the higher end of the fc range starting tomorrow.
Being in Austin, you should be very familiar with the best color ever. Its great for towers, football teams, sunsets and chlorine tests.
 
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LOL at I would fight someone for my SpeedStir, I would as well my friend. It also makes testing more fun, like an actual highs school chemistry class setting. My kids loved it when they were younger. Highly recommended!
I bought one and have been using it. It helps but not worth the $ IMO. It doesn't appear to have a 44ml marker. Now I have to maintain two tubes and keep track of the little white magnet.
 

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If anything it might raise it a bit due to the aeration, but.... lets see how long your water like to stay at 8.0. Mine will stay there for weeks at a time so I let it be and don't hit it with MA until it goes above there.

I've seen people stress themselves out over trying to micromanage their pH, so trying to save you from that.
 
I bought one and have been using it. It helps but not worth the $ IMO. It doesn't appear to have a 44ml marker. Now I have to maintain two tubes and keep track of the little white magnet.
We all set up the test kits differently. I have an individual tube and magnet for each test - FC, CH, TA, Salt. I use a pH meter for pH or just use the simple color comparator that came with the test kit.
 
TA and pH want to be in balance. With a TA of 90, it may just sit at 8.
Leave pH alone until it is above 8.0, then lower it to 7.8.
When your TA is 60-80, pH will be stable somewhere between 7.8 and 8.0. All are just fine.

However, I saw a 0.2 increase directly after the addition.
Post a picture of the bottle.

From poolmath "effects of adding":
1743088955405.png
 
TA and pH want to be in balance. With a TA of 90, it may just sit at 8.
Leave pH alone until it is above 8.0, then lower it to 7.8.
When your TA is 60-80, pH will be stable somewhere between 7.8 and 8.0. All are just fine.


Post a picture of the bottle.

From poolmath "effects of adding":
View attachment 634656

This is from this morning. MA treatment was done Tuesday morning.
 

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