Has anyone noticed major discrepancies in FC test results when testing 25ml versus 10ml? I have been doing 10ml to save reagent but would prefer the more accurate route. Thanks!
Hi from Texas
- Thread starter Maldravus
- Start date
The two methods should be close enough to not care if it varies a little (one drop's worth for either test). Newbs always want to focus on the 0.X when the truth is the 'point whatever' has never saved anyone. A 2.8 and a 2.5 are equally as bad in my book and you need a FC boost immediately. The number before the decimal is the important one.
If your 25/10 tests are not reasonably matching, slow it down and allow the drops to fall naturally. Pay mind to keep the bottle vertical and try again. I get a wonky test now and again and taking a breath and slowing it down helps 99 out of 100.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,880
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Taylor accuracy is +/-1 drops for each 10 drops.
FC=5
10mL = 10 drops, so +/-.5FC
25mL = 25 drops, so +/-.5FC
Save the reagent.
FC=5
10mL = 10 drops, so +/-.5FC
25mL = 25 drops, so +/-.5FC
Save the reagent.
Sounds good, thanks. 2 more questions that are semi-related; when I would take my sample to Leslie's, one of the things they would test for is phosphates to determine if there is any algae growth. How do we test for that with our Taylor kit? Additionally, while my pool looks clear during the sunny afternoon, I notice at night when I turn the light on a lot of cloudy reflection immediately in front of the LEDs. Is this normal or do I need to be concerned? I attached a lower resolution photo (server max. upload capacity prevented the full 5mb + file).
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There is a seperate Talyor phosphate kit. While its true that phosphates are algae food, the industry uses them as a scare tactic to sell unnecessary watered down phosphate remover.
A while back someone here likened it to putting all your house contents in storage so that you didn't get robbed when you left the door unlocked. Just lock the dang door (maintain a proper CYA/FC ratio) and the robbers can't easily get in.
Its normal after any breeze. (Providing the FC never sniffed min per your CYA). Suspended particles / dust can take days to find it's way to the filter because of the constant mixing and by the time it's filtered, it was breezy again. It's a never ending battle.
Thanks. No min on FC though it did go down slightly. I’ve attached this mornings results. I used the SpeedStir. I am still struggling to nail down my CH. I cannot tell when I should log it, it’s either around 200 or 250. Also, my TA appears to have raised a bit. I added the recommended level of LC but am debating on whether or not to do a MA treatment. It seems like it may be time.
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Use 225 until it appears otherwise. We don't need to nail this one, although we do strive to be as accurate as reasonable. But we need to know the general CH, that it's 225ish and not 800 or 50.
Its probably close. And here's the deal. Don't lose sleep over it. If you dose a bit early at 7.8, next time comes a bit earlier. If you dose after couple days late at 8.2, PH is a long term concern and no harm was done in the short term.
It'll settle where it wants to be. Maintain the PH and monitor the TA to see how it responds.
Whelp, I went ahead and added the suggested amount, following TFP recommendations. My first MA addition ever (since pool stores have said specifically to not use MA but to use dry acid). Fingers crossed this goes well!
If it helps any, we're learning how your pool responds right there with ya. No 2 line up perfectly the same. We'll road test it and adjust the course as necessary.
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,880
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
Create another pool in pool math, call it Fill Water. Test your fill water for TA, CH and pH. Enter results into the Fill Water pool and report here.
Also, turn on "Track Temperature" and "Track CSI" for your home pool.
I would also use the same Username/Password as TFP, and enable sharing with TFP...then we can see your logs.
Do you have an autofill?
Without a tile line, CH really is not necessary in a fiberglass pool. The only reason to monitor, is that when it gets high, you can get scaling. In TX, you can have high evaporation rates. CH will build up in the pool water with CH in the fill water with evaporation.
You likely have high TA fill water. Here is the thing on pH/TA:
Just manage your pH and TA will come down over time. When pH gets to 8 or above, lower your pH to 7.6. pH will rise again on its own, lower it to 7.6 again. TA will come down over time.
When TA gets to about 60-80, stop forcing pH to 7.6. With TA of 60-80, your pH should be stable around 7.8-8.0.
7.8-8.0 is just fine for pH.
Thanks! Biggest concern is compromising the shell with MA. However 6.7oz distributed over a jet with a very thin pencil like stream into 11282 gallons then stirring and brushing after seems like it should not be an issue. I am paranoid and will keep brushing over and over to be sure.If it helps any, we're learning how your pool responds right there with ya. No 2 line up perfectly the same. We'll road test it and adjust the course as necessary.
Done. I got some very interesting results. Attached. Much different than the pool water right now. Honestly a bit shocking. I do not have an autofill. I currently track my temp and csi.
Attachments
- Jun 24, 2021
- 15,880
- Pool Size
- 29000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-60 Plus
That is a decent CH. Your CH will rise over time...just monitor your CSI...at some point, you will need to exchange water, but with a 140 CH fill, it will likely be a year/two or three.
The TA of 140 in your fill, you will have constantly rising pH.
Low pH and high TA are the cause of pH rise.
Manage your pH. When you add acid, it lowers pH and TA. pH will rise on its own. Follow the process I gave you and your TA will come down over time.
Manage pH, track TA.
The TA of 140 in your fill, you will have constantly rising pH.
Low pH and high TA are the cause of pH rise.
Manage your pH. When you add acid, it lowers pH and TA. pH will rise on its own. Follow the process I gave you and your TA will come down over time.
Manage pH, track TA.
Sounds great, thanks! I took a dip and dove around the area where I administered the MA this morning. Shell seems fine, I do not see any signs of damage. As I said I did it over a jet, very thin stream at the deepest end then stirred and brushed.
The return jet stirred for you. (Doesn't matter which end as long as you added at a return) Skip that stirring and add another swipe with the brush just so you sleep better about it.
My returns are in the shallow end which is nice because it's easier to brush there with a large pool.
My returns are in the shallow end which is nice because it's easier to brush there with a large pool.
Thanks. Do you just brush around the area for a bit after dosing? I started at the return jet and went several feet to the left and right in case it got pushed.
- May 3, 2014
- 62,672
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I pour it in and walk away. Muriatic Acid (hydrochloric acid) will not damage gel coat. Especially diluted in a pool. It is used to clean fiberglass boat hulls.
I do. Just for me to sleep better.
Stay in the stream. Depending on the wind sometimes I pour leftie and other times righty, but the the bottle gets sunk a little on my side of the stream and I pour into the stream nice and slow.
Do y’all ever do anything in preparation for heavy rain? We are supposed to get a ton of rain Thursday and Friday. I know I’m holding off on filling any evaporated water but wasn’t sure if I should target a higher FC level in anticipation of the upcoming rain.
I target the higher FC all the time. Then it doesn't matter what happens, or when.
Big storm overnight ? Covered.
Crazy high UV day ? Covered
Mrs plays hooky and has the gals over ? Covered.
Also keep in mind that 2 inches of rain, which is usually more than we get at once, will only dilute a 60 inch average depth pool by 1/30th. Not enough to even notice.
A 6 inch monster of a storm will only dilute you 10%, and your FC should not have been that close to min under any circumstances anyway.
The key is circulation. For those running a schedule, it may be 16 hours before the pump kicks back on and 0 FC rain water may go funky on top.
Big storm overnight ? Covered.
Crazy high UV day ? Covered
Mrs plays hooky and has the gals over ? Covered.
Also keep in mind that 2 inches of rain, which is usually more than we get at once, will only dilute a 60 inch average depth pool by 1/30th. Not enough to even notice.
A 6 inch monster of a storm will only dilute you 10%, and your FC should not have been that close to min under any circumstances anyway.
The key is circulation. For those running a schedule, it may be 16 hours before the pump kicks back on and 0 FC rain water may go funky on top.