Hi from Texas

[Maldravus]

(Cyanuric) Acid sits in the chlorinator and eats the valve when it's off, eventually oozing out when the pump is off. Then it eats whatever else is there. Check valves are installed between the heater and tab feeder specifically for this purpose, but the acid eats the check valve too, then the heater.

Its not a question of if, but when. It doesn't take but a year or two.

They all install a check valve, but as anything sacrificial, it only lasts so long. I circled yours.

View attachment 634104

So stabilizer (CYA) sits in the chlorinator and eats away at that device, the check valve, and the heater? Are there some sources for this? Additionally, at what level does this occur?

We get it and generally do our best to use kid gloves to break the news. We have met 'you' lirerally hundreds of thousands of times. We will continue to meet you over and over again, starting from scratch each time with each newb.

There's a reason why so many keep seeking us out. Keep an open mind and we'll keep trying to teach you kindly.

I understand but it was just yesterday folks on here were telling me it's fine to use tablets on occasion / sparingly with the knowledge of the FC/CYA relationship. Now that seems to not be the case. Is this something I should discuss with our builder?

 

[Newdude]

So stabilizer (CYA) sits in the chlorinator and eats away at that device, the check valve, and the heater?

Exactly.

Are there some sources for this?

I do not have any equipment manuals handy at the moment but it will say to install a check valve on your system. (Which they did)

Additionally, at what level does this occur?

It depends on the idle time. If running 24/7 it wouldn't be an issue because the flow wouldn't allow back seepage.

I understand but it was just yesterday folks on here were telling me it's fine to use tablets on occasion / sparingly with the knowledge of the FC/CYA relationship. Now that seems to not be the case

We prefer using a floater in the pool to not risk the equipment. If you chose to occasionally use the tab feeder, that's still better than full time use, although not great. Everyone who responds will have a different level of risk assessment.

Is this something I should discuss with our builder?

They did what they were supposed to do. We are simply telling you there is a better way.

 

[Maldravus]

Exactly.

I do not have any equipment manuals handy at the moment but it will say to install a check valve on your system. (Which they did)

It depends on the idle time. If running 24/7 it wouldn't be an issue because the flow wouldn't allow back seepage.

We prefer using a floater in the pool to not risk the equipment. If you chose to occasionally use the tab feeder, that's still better than full time use, although not great. Everyone who responds will have a different level of risk assessment.

They did what they were supposed to do. We are simply telling you there is a better way.

By source I mean a credible source from vendors / suppliers documenting adverse effects of CYA / pucks on heaters and valves. Our pump has been running 24/7 because we're using the heater and it is required that the pump be on and at a minimum RPM of 2500 to work. So the pump runs 24/7 and the heat pump has been kicking on in the evening and shutting off when the sun comes out around 10am or so.

 

[mknauss]

Lots of threads on corroded heat exchangers and tablet use.

Google search results

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Newdude]

By source I mean a credible source from vendors / suppliers documenting adverse effects of CYA /

The industry generally ignores CYA and it's effects. Like telling everyone to add their granual (CY)Acid to the skimmers and run it through the equipment. Common sense clearly shows no good comes from exposing the equipment to an acid, even somewhat diluted, when there is a better way.

Our pump has been running 24/7 because we're using the heater

Then at the moment, it's fine. The acid will eat the chlorinator even with flow, and they all leak every couple of years because of it. Either the unions or the lid will fail, being specific to that system/usage.

 

[Maldravus]

Lots of threads on corroded heat exchangers and tablet use.

Google search results

www.troublefreepool.com

I am moreso looking for documentation from the vendors. Presumably if Hayward is aware that CYA will corrode the internal parts of its machine, the manual will list this down as a warning at the very least.

 

[Maldravus]

The industry generally ignores CYA and it's effects. Like telling everyone to add their granual (CY)Acid to the skimmers and run it through the equipment. Common sense clearly shows no good comes from exposing the equipment to an acid, even somewhat diluted, when there is a better way.

Then at the moment, it's fine. The acid will eat the chlorinator even with flow, and they all leak every couple of years because of it. Either the unions or the lid will fail, being specific to that system/usage.

Is there some vendor documentation regarding this issue? Looking specifically for whomever manufactures these chlorinators. I will go see if I can get a make and model.

 

[Maldravus]

Is there some vendor documentation regarding this issue? Looking specifically for whomever manufactures these chlorinators. I will go see if I can get a make and model.

I just checked and it's a Hayward Chlorine Feeder. Did not see a model number.

 

[Newdude]

Is there some vendor documentation regarding this issue? Looking specifically for whomever manufactures these chlorinators.

The chlorinator manufacturer probably doesn't care. The heater manufacturer (Hayward in this case) does.




They call it 'highly concentrated sanitizer' and not acid, but it's the acid that's worse.

 

[Maldravus]

The chlorinator manufacturer probably doesn't care. The heater manufacturer (Hayward in this case) does.

View attachment 634125


They call it 'highly concentrated sanitizer' and not acid, but it's the acid that's worse.

Thanks. It looks like they're manufactured by the same company - Hayward. I am particularly interested in what causes a "pressure differential" which seems to be the trigger for back siphoning. Is this just something that automatically happens when the pump is off or is there some catalyst to this event? It appears they did not install at a lower elevation, but they didn't really have the room to do so.

 

[PoolStored]

Is this just something that automatically happens when the pump is off or is there some catalyst to this event?

Yes.

Have you considered installing an SWG instead of a puck chlorinator? In Texas, an SWG makes all the sense in the world.

 

[Maldravus]

Yes.

Have you considered installing an SWG instead of a puck chlorinator? In Texas, an SWG makes all the sense in the world.

Is this basically converting to a "salt water pool"? We discussed with the builder for a few minutes, but were basically told that it would eat at the limestone and patio furniture so we decided against it. No benefits or specifications were discussed.

 

[PoolStored]

See Travertine and Limestone Corrosion section in the Wiki on Salt.

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

@Jimrahbe @JoyfulNoise and @ajw22 may weigh in...

 

[Maldravus]

See Travertine and Limestone Corrosion section in the Wiki on Salt.

Salt - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

@Jimrahbe @JoyfulNoise and @ajw22 may weigh in...

Thanks. I will say I am very new to TFP, and just making the switch (sort of, my plan was to use tablets sparingly and supplement with LC) to LC. I haven't even grasped that concept yet. I am still getting used to daily testing. So I am not looking to swap to SWG and throw more changes and costs into the mix right now.

 

[PoolStored]

I think that is an OK move. Just know that it is an option...

 

[Newdude]

but were basically told that it would eat at the limestone and patio furniture so we decided against it.

Each gallon of LC raises you 15ppm of salt. In 3 years or so you'll be close enough to a 'salt pool' for the builder to run out of excuses. It's only 10% of the salinity of seawater. Most LC pools who had a reason to test their salt were stunned to see it was as high as it was. But call it a 'salt pool' and Texas PBs have all kinds of things to say about it.

So I am not looking to swap to SWG and throw more changes and costs into the mix right now.

We can have you up to speed in about a month of doing it. Its harder to learn it all with next to no UV demand / not really doing it. Look at how much you've already learned in just a week.

And its never a bad idea to change only one variable at a time.

 

[Maldravus]

Each gallon of LC raises you 15ppm of salt. In 3 years or so you'll be close enough to a 'salt pool' for the builder to run out of excuses. It's only 10% of the salinity of seawater. Most LC pools who had a reason to test their salt were stunned to see it was as high as it was. But call it a 'salt pool' and Texas PBs have all kinds of things to say about it.

View attachment 634144

We can have you up to speed in about a month of doing it. Its harder to learn it all with next to no UV demand / not really doing it. Look at how much you've already learned in just a week.

And its never a bad idea to change only one variable at a time.

Is the installation of a SWG a DIY thing? Not looking for a lengthy article right this second (will as I learn more and work through LC challenges).

 

[Newdude]

Is the installation of a SWG a DIY thing?

Basic PVC plumbing skills are needed and there's 1000 YouTube vids to show how simple it is. The electric work needed is a little more involved but still on the novice side.

I figure $500 to $1000 is fair to pay someone depending on the work needed and local rates.

 

[Maldravus]

Basic PVC plumbing skills are needed and there's 1000 YouTube vids to show how simple it is. The electric work needed is a little more involved but still on the novice side.

I figure $500 to $1000 is fair to pay someone depending on the work needed and local rates.

It is something I will consider once I get a swimming season under my belt with LC. Still have a lot to learn there.

 

[HermanTX]

Thanks. I will say I am very new to TFP, and just making the switch (sort of, my plan was to use tablets sparingly and supplement with LC) to LC. I haven't even grasped that concept yet. I am still getting used to daily testing. So I am not looking to swap to SWG and throw more changes and costs into the mix right now.

This is something we discussed early on and agree that stick with the move to LC and use pucks sparingly such as on vacation or in the winter months when FC is not in high demand. As mentioned earlier, the use of a floater is the best way to add a puck to your pool as there is no damage to equipment as the CYA and chlorine that is released is already mixed with pool water.