Help with Aquapure - 144 / No Flow / Fluctuating Temp

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Y

Yinn

Well-known member
Apr 12, 2019
54
New Jersey
Just started up the pool and have been running it for about a week now. Most of the pool is in balance except for the salt; which I'm waiting for the temps to climb a little. Right now she fluctuates between 55-65 as the outdoor temps are still low.

She's run perfectly fine for several seasons but I did a pretty big drain this past winter. The generator shows 144, which I know is low salt. Once I get a nice steady 60+ of water temp I'll add salt into it. I'm not expecting chlorine generation as of now because of this.

What is new is that she shows "No Flow" with a blinking green light for Sensor Flow on the tri-sensor (Program A). Also new is the temperature is displaying weird. Upon pushing temp/boost, it will show fluctuating numbers from 34-40 at a rapid blink. Usually it'll just give me a consistent single number. I've attached a video to help.

So far, I've done the following
1) A breaker reset.
2) Pump shut off, restart.
3) Pulled the panel apart to see if there was a calibration button, but there wasn't one.
4) Removed the sensor and the cell from the fusion and they both look clean without any buildup. Just in case, I also did an acid wash of the cell.
5) Checked flow with pump at 65% (50gpm)
6) Increased pump speed to 90% (80gpm+ at meter)

Again, I'm not expecting chlorine generation because of the temp and salt levels. But I'm not sure if it should still see a flow condition with low salt as well as providing a consistent temperature. My pool heater is plumbed right before it and the water flow sensor does trip and turn it on (40gpm required) and the water temp on the heater reads 64 when I took the video.

I'm guessing I need a new sensor but I wanted to get the forums thoughts on it as well before I threw money at it. Thank you in advance.

 
Your low water temperature and salt level should not effect the flow indication. I think you have a tri-sensor problem.

Let's see what @JamesW thinks.
 
Here is a test you can do to diagnose the trisensor.

Disconnect the flow salinity temp sensor from the board.

Press and hold the test buttons marked salinity and R-temp. While still pressing the test buttons press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 2.8 gpl*.

While still holding the two front board test buttons press the ‘Pool Temperature’ key (‘D’). It should read 75° F or 24° C.

Next, press and hold the board ‘H-Temp’ test button, and at the same time press the ‘Salinity’ key (‘C’) together with the ‘Chlorine Production Rate’ arrow down key (‘A’) on the front cover of the unit. The LCD should read 91° F or 33° C .

If the readings are correct then the board is O.K. and the problem is with the flow sensor. On the other hand if the readings are different then it indicates that there is a problem with the board.
 
The salinity was probably recalibrated. So, the number is ok.

* refers to the recalibration and how it will change the exact number.

Based on the readings, I would suspect that the trisensor is probably bad.

[Edit] With no salt in the water, nothing will work correctly. Add salt before you decide if the system is working correctly or not.[End edit]

How old is everything?
 
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To reset the salinity calibration, do the following and [edit]Lower[edit] the salinity reading by 500 ppm.

Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times.

The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds.

Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.

The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.

When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.

[edit]Lower[edit] the salinity reading by 500 ppm or recalibrate it to match the k-1766 result.

What is the current salinity reading from the box?
 
Last edited:
JamesW said:
How old is everything?
Click to expand...

The pool was built in 2017 and in operation since then. It runs typically April/May until September/October.

JamesW said:
Remove the trisensor and see if it has any obvious damage.
Click to expand...

No obvious damage. The wiring looks good, no kinks, bends, or rips in the wire insulation. The two metal plates on the sensor are shiny and clean - no discoloration or buildup.

JamesW said:
To reset the salinity calibration, do the following and increase the salinity reading by 500 ppm.

Press the “Salinity” button and hold it until it beeps 3 times.

The system will beep when you push it and then at 5 seconds and again at 10 seconds.

Release the button after the 3rd beep. Press and release the “Temperature “ button within 5 seconds to enter the salinity calibration screen.

The system will display the salinity reading, press the up arrow to increase the reading and the down arrow to decrease the reading.

When the proper reading is reached press the “Temperature” button within 5 seconds to store it in memory.

Increase the salinity reading by 500 ppm or recalibrate it to match the k-1766 result.

What is the current salinity reading from the box?
Click to expand...

I'll have to do this once I pick up the kit. With no salt in the system aside from naturally occurring ones from my well the salinity read higher than I would have thought - 1.1gpl
 

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JamesW said:
To reset the salinity calibration, do the following and increase the salinity reading by 500 ppm.
Click to expand...
I got this backwards.

The salinity was already calibrated to read higher than actual.

The test procedure is reading 3.3 when it should be reading 2.8.

Lower the reading by 0.5 gpl (500 ppm).

The 1.1 gpl (1,100 ppm) should read 0.6 gpl (600 ppm).

Add the salt and then check the salinity against the K-1766 test kit.
 
JamesW said:
I got this backwards.

The salinity was already calibrated to read higher than actual.

The test procedure is reading 3.3 when it should be reading 2.8.

Lower the reading by 0.5 gpl (500 ppm).

The 1.1 gpl (1,100 ppm) should read 0.6 gpl (600 ppm).

Add the salt and then check the salinity against the K-1766 test kit.
Click to expand...

Ok so 2.8 is the calibration bar essentially and use the kit for confirmation. In the previous post it was to use the test kit as the calibration bar
 
JamesW said:
Recalibrate from 1.1 to 0.6 and then recheck the test procedure to see if you get 2.8.

Add salt and test with the K-1766 to see if they match.
Click to expand...

I was able to recalibrate and it reads 2.8 now in test. Added salt, 144 is gone as expected and my salt level is 3.2gpl. Water temp from the water heater read 64F today, but the AquaPure is showing LO and does the temp fluctuation from 35-40 still.
 
I recommend that you get a whole new cell kit with a new trisensor and cord.

Jandy Aqua Pure 1400 3-port cell, 40,000 Gallon (O.E.M) - PLC1400

If your current cell is still good, you can use it until it dies, but change out the trisensor now.

Jandy AquaPure 1400 Replacement Cell, 40,000 Gal Pool, 16ft Cord, Tri-Sensor - Model PLC1400 - INYOPools.com

Replacement Salt Cell for the Jandy Purelink Chlorinator
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

jandy-plc700-02.jpeg
 
Last edited:
JamesW said:
I recommend that you get a whole new cell kit with a new trisensor and cord.

Jandy Aqua Pure 1400 3-port cell, 40,000 Gallon (O.E.M) - PLC1400

If your current cell is still good, you can use it until it dies, but change out the trisensor now.

Jandy AquaPure 1400 Replacement Cell, 40,000 Gal Pool, 16ft Cord, Tri-Sensor - Model PLC1400 - INYOPools.com

Replacement Salt Cell for the Jandy Purelink Chlorinator
www.inyopools.com www.inyopools.com

jandy-plc700-02.jpeg
Click to expand...
Just an update, I started with the sensor first. Purchased online for $100. Plug and play, the entire system started working after that. I then took apart the old sensor to play with it.

After stripping the outer insulation I found a break/short on the internal wires. I reconnected the wires and plugged the old sensor back in and everything worked/read as normal. Luckily I didn't rip out the entire outer insulation so I then cut further down the line to get a clean cut. I then redid the pins to the connector and tested the old unit out...works as intended.

So turns out it was a non-visible short that caused the whole thing. I probably should have tested the pins on the sensor wires for shorts/breaks instead of the visual inspection I did. Lesson learned, I now have a spare sensor.
 
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Circling back on this thread.

45 days in, my panel showed "No Flow".

No error codes, just no flow. Here we go again...

1. Check the filter, pressures good. Cleaned it out.
2. Check the flow right after pump, 60 gpm good.
3. Check the flow downstream right before salt cell, 50 gpm, good.
4. Check the sensor and salt cell for debris and/or build up. Good and clear

mumbling to myself - it's the stupid control board this time.

5. Ran through @JamesW panel procedures....board checks out. WTF?

Now what? It's a brand new sensor and the board checks out.

6. Double check program, ends in A15; Program A. Good.

You know what, let me grab that old sensor.
7. Plugged in the old sensor, turned it on. Flow.

Weird. Undid the screw tap connections. Fished the wires into the panel and placed the controller inside to protect and weatherproof my splice. Some ago taps and 5 minutes later, she's up and running. My 4 year old sensor still works, my 45 day old sensor is apparently dead...time to see how to claim warranty. Newer is not always better I guess but one thing is for sure, it's great to have a spare around.
 
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