Help wiring Smart Wi-fi Switch to Pool Lights

BoNeZ82

Member
Oct 18, 2018
7
Rensselaer
Hi Folks,

I could use some help with how to properly wire a smart switch to my existing pool lights. I'm leaning towards purchasing the Leviton DW15S-1BZ smart switch from amazon - i'm not married to any product just yet. In an ideal world I would like to turn my pool lights on / off via my phone or alexa. If I can also find a product that has an optional remote, that would be amazing.

I will attach pictures, but my issue is the existing switch does not have a neutral. The subpanel, light switch, and GFI outlet are all in-line with conduit access. It's difficult to find a clear solution among different threads and google searches.

My understanding (so far) is that I should be doing the following:
1) take a black line off the HOT LOAD side of the GFI outlet and connect it to the hot on the new switch
2) Take a white line off the White LOAD side of the GFI outlet and connect it to the neutral (white) on the new switch
3) Reuse the existing ground from the original existing switch
4) ??? how do I connect the two red lines. One red comes from pool lights, other comes from the breaker? Would I connect the red line from the break to the Load red of the switch. Then the last red from the pool lights to the yellow traveler?

Note: All assumptions above could very well be wrong! Again, any help or guidance would be appreciated.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
21,105
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
- Pull a #12 white wire for a neutral from the CB panel to the switch box.
- Identify the white neutral going into the light GFCI CB and remove it from the CB.
- Wire nut together the white neutral you just removed and the new white wire to the switch and a short white wire pigtail
- Connect the white pigtail neutral to the GFCI CB
- Identify the red wire that runs to the light GFCI CB - wrap a piece of black electrical tape around it to indicate that is the hot wire
- The other red wire is the load and should run to the light
- New white neutral goes to white on switch
- Red w/black tape hot wire goes to black on switch
- Red load wire goes to red on switch
- Green wire goes to green on switch
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: BoNeZ82

BoNeZ82

Member
Oct 18, 2018
7
Rensselaer
ajw22 - Thank you! Those directions are incredibly straightforward - basically I just need to fish a white neutral from the bus bar, then red hot to black, and red load to red load on switch. I had believed I couldn't do that without creating an uneven line / load ratio which would trip the GFCI outlet below.

As to your question: is the pool light on a GFCI CB - How would I determine this? The electrical was inspected and approved by my town, not that it couldn't have been overlooked. The panel is labed GFI outlet and Pool Light?
 

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
21,105
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
See my edits. I looked closer and you have a GFCI CB. I changed the way you do the neutrals to connect it to the GFCI CB.

The lower GFCI outlet is powered by the CB on the left. They share nothing in common with the light circuit except for some common conduit..
 
  • Like
Reactions: BoNeZ82

Rancho Cost-a-Lotta

Silver Supporter
Apr 10, 2018
1,644
Rancho Cucamonga, CA
For what its worth, I just installed a Kasa TP-Link HS 200 switch for my pool lights. The switch is installed in a steel Intermatic enclosure and still receives a good signal. I was concerned I might need to modify the box as @chiefwej did in THIS post. The Kasa app is great and the switch is on sale right now...a smokin' deal. I paid $28.99 a couple weeks ago and its now on sale for $23.99 minus 30% if you're a prime member. I have about ten TP-Link switches and plugs and they all work perfect.
 

BoNeZ82

Member
Oct 18, 2018
7
Rensselaer
Thank you for the second look, that’s extremely easy to follow. Last question, it looks like the neutral in the CB has two wires: one coiled to the bus bar, a second to the right conduit, maybe running to the lights? Do I disconnect just the one to lights or both? Attached is a closer photo.
 

Attachments

ajw22

Gold Supporter
TFP Guide
Jul 21, 2013
21,105
Northern NJ
Pool Size
35000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Thank you for the second look, that’s extremely easy to follow. Last question, it looks like the neutral in the CB has two wires: one coiled to the bus bar, a second to the right conduit, maybe running to the lights? Do I disconnect just the one to lights or both? Attached is a closer photo.

You disconnect the white wire running down the conduit and wire nut it with the other white and pigtail. Leave the coiled white wire connected to the neutral bus bar.
 
  • Like
Reactions: BoNeZ82

BoNeZ82

Member
Oct 18, 2018
7
Rensselaer
You disconnect the white wire running down the conduit and wire nut it with the other white and pigtail. Leave the coiled white wire connected to the neutral bus bar.
This is magic, more than I could have hoped for. Thank you.

Rancho - I’ll definitely look into the TP link switch. A solid performer is exactly what I need.