Help troubleshooting my Aquapure 1400?

[generessler]

Okay just ran out to take pictures. Here's what mine looks like before and after swinging the front panel down. I'm just guessing that they skipped printing the message on the front panel in your version.

 

[wireform]

Okay just ran out to take pictures. Here's what mine looks like before and after swinging the front panel down. I'm just guessing that they skipped printing the message on the front panel in your version.
View attachment 572723View attachment 572724

How dumb to have to go through all that for a display that should be up front.

 

[generessler]

How dumb to have to go through all that for a display that should be up front.

Right! The Jandy equipment came with the house. For this one and about 10 other annoyances I'm sure I'd go with Pentair if I were starting from scratch.

 

[wireform]

The jandys of late have it up front in the left corner.

 

[davidwat]

Okay just ran out to take pictures. Here's what mine looks like before and after swinging the front panel down. I'm just guessing that they skipped printing the message on the front panel in your version.
View attachment 572723View attachment 572724

Thx so much for your help. I was clearly confusing this lcd panel (present also on my unit) which is part of the Aquapure module with the lcd module some folks have to the left of the push button panel on their more recent units. With your help I can see that the

Okay just ran out to take pictures. Here's what mine looks like before and after swinging the front panel down. I'm just guessing that they skipped printing the message on the front panel in your version.
View attachment 572723View attachment 572724

Many, many thanks for all your help. I exposed the Aquapure module which shows the lcd. I was confused by having a later edition board with the empty space on the left for the newer display. It shows a "lo" code which indicates(incorrectly) a low water temp which cuts off the chlorine generation. BOOST apparently bypasses this error code. I will peruse the workbook to see what further I can do. Maybe recalibrate the temp? It is interesting that the stated water temp in the IAqualink web app seems about right.

 

[davidwat]

Here is Aquapure LCD.

 

[generessler]

It shows a "lo" code which indicates(incorrectly) a low water temp which cuts off the chlorine generation. BOOST apparently bypasses this error code. I will peruse the workbook to see what further I can do. Maybe recalibrate the temp? It is interesting that the stated water temp in the IAqualink web app seems about right.

Progress! Congrats!

I don't think the temp sensor can be calibrated, but please second-guess me.

All the sensors self-calibrate at startup, so be sure to cycle power to the entire unit before anything else. On mine this is the "upstream" breaker, not any of those in the Aqualink box itself.

If that doesn't do it, cleaning the sensor may help. Also carefully check the sensor cable. Try pulling and re-seating the plug where it connects to the AquaPure board. Spraying that with a good contact cleaner (like CRC) may help, too.

If that doesn't do it, replacing the tri-sensor is the next step. The semi-good news is that it's probably the least expensive part of the system.

NB: The AquaLink temp comes from a different sensor.

 

[davidwat]

“The AquaLink temp comes from a different sensor.” - That’s too bad. The temp sensor is an inseparable part of my (edit)Compupool swg. I’m tempted to cut the thing open. I may plug my old nonworking jandy swg in to see if it generates the same temperature error.

 

[davidwat]

Progress! Congrats!

I don't think the temp sensor can be calibrated, but please second-guess me.

All the sensors self-calibrate at startup, so be sure to cycle power to the entire unit before anything else. On mine this is the "upstream" breaker, not any of those in the Aqualink box itself.

If that doesn't do it, cleaning the sensor may help. Also carefully check the sensor cable. Try pulling and re-seating the plug where it connects to the AquaPure board. Spraying that with a good contact cleaner (like CRC) may help, too.

If that doesn't do it, replacing the tri-sensor is the next step. The semi-good news is that it's probably the least expensive part of the system.

NB: The AquaLink temp comes from a different sensor.

GLORY!
First of all, Thx to all for the help rendered in solving my SWG problem. I also recognize that it is my own ignorance that slowed correction of the problem which was suggested by some and I'm sure recognized by more. I will try to summarize symptoms and the final dx for future readers who might have similar issues.
1) I have a Jandy AquaPure 1400 swg replaced by GRC/J40-3 SWG connected to a Jandy Aqualink PDA upgraded to Aqualink RS under iAqualink control.
2) The new SWG quit working under automatic control but did work under BOOST
3) After I finally recognized that my version of the AquaLink/AquaPure had an LED screen NOT in the current visible location is hidden behind a sheet metal panel (thanks Gene!), I saw error codes variably indicating erroneous temperature (LOW) and salt levels (high). Either of these errors can shut down the SWG for safety reasons. In my case Low temp could apparently be over-ridden by BOOST. HIGH salt (error code Jb) was not. This seemed to indicate an error in the tri-sensor which is known failure point of this system.
4) This assessment was simplified by the aftermarket SWG which has a clear window allowing the visibility of hydrogen bubbles indicating active chlorine generation. Voltage and amperage measurements were thus not necessary for me but might be useful with an OEM SWG.
5) Replacing the Jandy trisensor (bought on ebay for substantially less than retail - although PROBABLY NOT WITH JANDY WARRANTY) has resulted in appropriate function and acceptable chlorine levels.

Thx again to all
David - Dallas