Help, repetitive cya lock

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Pilot23

Active member
Jun 14, 2024
27
vinemont alabama
Pool Size
14900
Surface
Vinyl
Chlorine
Liquid Chlorine
Test came back
Chl-5-6 ppm
Ph 7.2
Alk-40
Hard-30
Cya is 30-40ppm after 50% water change

Pool is green and cloudy, pump is operating flawlessly and is double the size for the pool

Intex 24’x52”

Sand filter 16 inch
8500 gph 2 hp pump
Skimmer added

I had pool store help, and problem got worse, i did the 50% water change and this is where im at , im scared to do anything lol. I own a complete test kit for home use. Please advise, alabama supposed ti get hot hot this coming week and my kids are looking at me like i am lost haha
 
Pilot23 said:
Test came back
Chl-5-6 ppm
Ph 7.2
Alk-40
Hard-30
Cya is 30-40ppm after 50% water change

Pool is green and cloudy, pump is operating flawlessly and is double the size for the pool

Intex 24’x52”

Sand filter 16 inch
8500 gph 2 hp pump
Skimmer added

I had pool store help, and problem got worse, i did the 50% water change and this is where im at , im scared to do anything lol. I own a complete test kit for home use. Please advise, alabama supposed ti get hot hot this coming week and my kids are looking at me like i am lost haha
Click to expand...
Which test kit do you have? You need to be able to test chlorine above 5ppm reliably. The pool store is not good at testing reliably. Thats why they do it for free.

www.troublefreepool.com

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
 
Also like to add. I had been using granular shock, and chlorine tabs. From reading through some forums here I have understood that I won’t be using those anymore, and that my pool was locked up because of the pool store products containing stabilizer. After the last pool store recommendation didn’t work, I bought the master test kit and saw my cya was over 100, this prompting the water change. My above results are after refill and 3 days straight running pump and backwashing. Again I have not added anything since.
 
Bperry said:
Which test kit do you have? You need to be able to test chlorine above 5ppm reliably. The pool store is not good at testing reliably. Thats why they do it for free.

www.troublefreepool.com

Swimming Pool Test Kits Compared

What pool test kit should I buy? Why shouldn't I use test strips? Our recommended test kits will pay for themselves in no time!
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
Click to expand...
I have the hth kit from Walmart, the little box majigger only goes up to 5 or 6 I believe, so I’m sure it falls in the can’t test above reliably catagory
 
Pilot23 said:
I have the hth kit from Walmart, the little box majigger only goes up to 5 or 6 I believe, so I’m sure it falls in the can’t test above reliably catagory
Click to expand...
Yep, read through the link I posted above. The Tftestkits.net has reliable kits that we all use here.
 
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SO, in the short term -

  1. Get yourself a good kit - we recommend the TF-100 or TF-Pro from TFTestkits just because we know whats in it and know its reliable/complete etc.
    1. Looks like you did this already!! Awesome !!!
  2. While you are waiting for the kit to arrive, get some Liquid Chlorine - local sources are Walmart, Pinch-a-penny, Homedepot etc.
    1. You are looking for 10% or 12% strength - it is often called Liquid Shock - it should say Sodium Hypochlorite as the active ingredient. Basically, Bleach without all the additives.
    2. Add enough to equal 5PPM in your pool - that would be about 6 cups of 10% or about 5 of 12%. This will stop things getting any worse, and start you back on the road to TFP Clear :) Do this EVERY DAY until the kit comes.
    3. Once the kit arrives, do a complete set of tests, and post them here.
  3. Avoid using anything that contains anything with the words : Dichloro... Trichloro... Cyanuric...Copper... at least for now :)
    1. No powdered shock, no flocculants, no magic potions - it'll just make things worse !
    2. Stay out of the pool store - their testing is notoriously unreliable, and while most are well-meaning, they often unintentionally make things worse, typically at your expense!
  4. Read Pool Care Basics Archives - especially the ABCs and the SLAM portion
  5. Ask any questions you want - we live for this stuff ;)
  6. Update your profile with your details - size, pump, filter and so on - helps other figure out what they are dealing with.
We'll have your kids in the pool in no time :)
 
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Pilot23 said:
Can I use just straight Clorox bleach? Either way I’m going to get liquid today
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Short answer is , it depends ;)

Most 'laundry' type bleach has additives or fragrances etc. "Splash-less" is not good in your pool...despite what it might initially seem...

The best is either straight, disinfecting bleach (usually the cheap stuff at the store), but it's typically only 6% strength, and a similar price to what you can buy the better 10% or 12% for.
A quick look - Aisle G28 at the Cullman Walmart - $5.67 a gallon for 10% - I'd probably plan on picking up a half-dozen to start.

1718372483518.png
 
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Great!

Lower your pH in .4 increments until you get to 7.4. Add enough muriatic acid to lower pH by .4, pump on, brush around a bit. Test 30 minutes later, lower again in up to .4 increments until you reach 7.4.

Consider your CYA to be 60ppm Always round up your CYA to the next 10. Your SLAM target is 24. Follow the SLAM process after you get your pH down to 7.4. Link-->SLAM Process
 
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CYA of 60 is fine - SLAM away.
Since you are using liquid chlorine, the CYA won't continue to go up - unless you add some.
 
I already messed up

The pool math calculator defaults in 6% chlorine at 6% I needed about 5.5 gals so I put 5.5 gallons in. Well my chlorine is 10%, only needed a bit over 3 gal, am I screwed?
 

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