Help on Aqualink Troubleshoot

[joshuazzx]

Hi Experts,

I have a Aqualink PDA PS8 that controls my pool pump and other equipment, and it was programmed to run every day from 8:30am to 7:00 pm. However, recently it seems have some issues and what observed made me very confused.

Earlier this week, I noticed that my pool would started running before the programed start time and the date and time was reset to 2009. After manually correcting the time with the remote it could continue to run until 7pm, but the next day, it would reset again in the morning. First I thought is the 9v battery, even though we did not have any power outage or tripped breaker. I replaced a new battery, but that did NOT resolve the issue.

Below is what I observed so far after paying close attention to it for a few days.

1. When it starts running during the day, everything is fine, the clock is accurate and it stops at the programed time.
2. I am not clear when the resetting happens(seems random to me). I am sure it only happens during the "sleep" status.
3. Last night, I finally captured once when it reset. I noticed the "Auto" light was off and the "SPA Mode" light is on, but the pools pump is not running. None of the button would work, tried the reset button, not working. I cut off the power from the breaker panel, waited 1-2 minutes and turn it on, still the same, no button works and the SPA Mode light keep on. Below is the picture when it happens. I also tried disconnect the battery and cut off the power, it does not help. This morning around 10am, the pool starts running again, all the light and button seems working again, except the time was reset to 2009.
   
4. I checked the wires and did not find any lose wire or broken wire. Below are some pictures of what looked inside. The only thing I can think of is these two weeks are every hot here with outside temp 110+ F
   
   

Any suggestion on how to troubleshoot is much appreciated!!

Thank you!

 

[1poolman1]

Hi Experts,

I have a Aqualink PDA PS8 that controls my pool pump and other equipment, and it was programmed to run every day from 8:30am to 7:00 pm. However, recently it seems have some issues and what observed made me very confused.

Earlier this week, I noticed that my pool would started running before the programed start time and the date and time was reset to 2009. After manually correcting the time with the remote it could continue to run until 7pm, but the next day, it would reset again in the morning. First I thought is the 9v battery, even though we did not have any power outage or tripped breaker. I replaced a new battery, but that did NOT resolve the issue.

Below is what I observed so far after paying close attention to it for a few days.

1. When it starts running during the day, everything is fine, the clock is accurate and it stops at the programed time.
2. I am not clear when the resetting happens(seems random to me). I am sure it only happens during the "sleep" status.
3. Last night, I finally captured once when it reset. I noticed the "Auto" light was off and the "SPA Mode" light is on, but the pools pump is not running. None of the button would work, tried the reset button, not working. I cut off the power from the breaker panel, waited 1-2 minutes and turn it on, still the same, no button works and the SPA Mode light keep on. Below is the picture when it happens. I also tried disconnect the battery and cut off the power, it does not help. This morning around 10am, the pool starts running again, all the light and button seems working again, except the time was reset to 2009.
   View attachment 518058
4. I checked the wires and did not find any lose wire or broken wire. Below are some pictures of what looked inside. The only thing I can think of is these two weeks are every hot here with outside temp 110+ F
   View attachment 518059
   

Any suggestion on how to troubleshoot is much appreciated!!

Thank you!

Do you have a spa-side button? They are notorious for causing this type problem. The connection is the 6-wire plug on the front of the board. Just pull it off and see what happens.

 

[joshuazzx]

Do you have a spa-side button? They are notorious for causing this type problem. The connection is the 6-wire plug on the front of the board. Just pull it off and see what happens.

I do not have a a spa-side button. This is the front panel when it is working. or should should I look inside?

 

[ajw22]

Have you replaced the 9V battery that is in the compartment on the right side?

You remove the one screw to open that cover to access the battery.

The battery maintains the time when the Aqualink loses power.

 

[joshuazzx]

Have you replaced the 9V battery that is in the compartment on the right side?

You remove the one screw to open that cover to access the battery.

The battery maintains the time when the Aqualink loses power.

Yes, it has been replaced. The diagnostic information in the remote also shows Controller Battery OK.

I believe it is something else

Last night, it starts to go into the "bricked" status around 2am, and did not resume until this morning 9am

 

[ajw22]

Some members have had good experiences with BP Engineering, Inc. in Santa Rosa, CA, repairing their Jandy boards.

They can be contacted at bpengineering "at" sbcglobal "dot" net

 

[joshuazzx]

Some members have had good experiences with BP Engineering, Inc. in Santa Rosa, CA, repairing their Jandy boards.

They can be contacted at bpengineering "at" sbcglobal "dot" net

ok. As I am still an amateur on maintaining the pool, I post this on the forum hoping to hear the options from many of you experienced pool professionals. So based on what I described, this is most likely because the malfunction of the controller board?

 

[dfwnoob]

The board is showing a configuration that isn't possible (e.g no Auto/Timeout/Service indicator but showing "Spa Mode"). In our experience this is indicative of a failed board or a failed PPD (the 52 pin socketed chip).

As far as I know BP Engineering is no longer repairing boards, another member recently posted about them.

I would either replace the PCB with a known good used one or completely replace it with a new PCB (iAqualink 3.0 kit). The iAqualink kit would allow you to throw the garbage PDA system in the trash.

 

[joshuazzx]

The board is showing a configuration that isn't possible (e.g no Auto/Timeout/Service indicator but showing "Spa Mode"). In our experience this is indicative of a failed board or a failed PPD (the 52 pin socketed chip).

As far as I know BP Engineering is no longer repairing boards, another member recently posted about them.

I would either replace the PCB with a known good used one or completely replace it with a new PCB (iAqualink 3.0 kit). The iAqualink kit would allow you to throw the garbage PDA system in the trash.

Thanks you for the information. I am also think about upgrading to a newer system.

For the iAqualink3.0, will the iAquaLink 3.0 iQ30-RS Web Connection Upgrade Kit( the one shown below) work with my other equipment(pump, heater, SWG, light, etc)?

This is will be just a swap with the current PCB and Antenna, right? Is there any other thing I need or know before buying the kit to avoid any unwanted surprise?

 

[ajw22]

The new board works with the same equipment.

Make note of all your settings and schedules as you will need to reenter it all in the new board.

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[dfwnoob]

This is will be just a swap with the current PCB and Antenna, right? Is there any other thing I need or know before buying the kit to avoid any unwanted surprise?

That's all you need! It's a simple swap. Like Allen says, I'd probably write down your schedules, or use this time to review whether or not whatever you have now is appropriate.

 

[joshuazzx]

That's all you need! It's a simple swap. Like Allen says, I'd probably write down your schedules, or use this time to review whether or not whatever you have now is appropriate.

The new board works with the same equipment.

Make note of all your settings and schedules as you will need to reenter it all in the new board.

Finally upgraded to IQ30-RS and everything works fine now. One question is the iAqualink system Date/Time is still manually set, I thought it should automatically sync with internet time when connecting to Wifi. Am I missing something?

Thanks a lot!

 

[HermanTX]

Finally upgraded to IQ30-RS and everything works fine now. One question is the iAqualink system Date/Time is still manually set, I thought it should automatically sync with internet time when connecting to Wifi. Am I missing something?

Thanks a lot!

I notice I have to adjust the time manually after several months as well.

There are some other threads on fhe forum asking about upgrade to iQ30-RS, I was wondering if you could briefly give your experience. Did you buy the kit locally? Did you have it installed by a 3rd party? Any info that may be helpful for others. Thanks.

 

[dfwnoob]

If Jandy had talented or intelligent software engineers, the system would grab and sync network time. Unfortunately, Jandy does not have any talented nor intelligent engineers. So yeah, you have to set it manually

The Aqualink has no idea it's connected to the Internet. The iAqualink antenna just sends/interprets serial data commands the same way any other controller would.

 

[joshuazzx]

I notice I have to adjust the time manually after several months as well.

There are some other threads on fhe forum asking about upgrade to iQ30-RS, I was wondering if you could briefly give your experience. Did you buy the kit locally? Did you have it installed by a 3rd party? Any info that may be helpful for others. Thanks.

I bought it from internet and installed myself. The downside is no warranty if not installed by the authorized retailer or professional company.

The upgrade installation was fairly easy. It was just a simple swap the board and install the new attena. The most time consuming part for me is to route attana wire to the board. The installation job took 1 hour in total.

It is really upto you whether to hire someone else. If there is no change in your equipment, you do not need to touch any of the high voltage part, only those low voltage wires and sensor wires. If require to deal with high volt connections, I would probably think twice.