Help me Please

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charden0813

Member
Jun 15, 2019
7
Middle TN
My pool has looked like this since September 6th. We were swimming in clear water on Labor Day and it just seems like over night it crashed. After trying to vacuum it out with my Pool Rover Jr it still stayed cloudy. Went to my local pool store and they told me to shock it day and night till it cleared up. Days go by and it still doesn't clear up. Go back to the pool store and they give me this after testing. Told me to drop my chlorine down with de-chlor and it should clear up. Three days later I go back and the chlorine readings were still high so she told me to put some Baquacil in it and drop the chlorine to zero and put some Pool first aid in. So chlorine is at 0 now and I can somewhat see the bottom. It looks like blobs of dirt(algae) on the bottom and water is still a little cloudy. So I break out the Pool Rover and let it run for 6 hours. Go back out and the pool is right back to cloudy and this is what the filter on my Rover looks like. Is this an algae problem or a chemical problem? I AM LOST!!!

Pool is a 24x52 Above Ground Round
1.5HP Eco-Kleer Pump
Sand Filter.
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While waiting on an expert, check out pool school, abc’s of water chemistry. Also recommended chemicals. Much of what the pool store had you buy is not on the list and most times causes more issues than they fix.

Here at TFP we use our own test kit and don’t depend on a pool store or test strips. Neither are consistent or accurate. I suggest the TF100 or K2006C.

Good Luck!
 
Char,

So sorry to hear of the problems. Here's the bad news: you're worse than lost, you're in the firm grip of the pool store yo-yo, try one thing then another then another 'till you spend a fortune on things that don't work then you end up here out of sheer desperation. Here's the good news: You're here and we can help you take control of your pool without ever spending a dime at the pool store again. Out system isn't rocket science, it's based on solid science and it works for thousands of people just like you. We sell absolutely nothing. We just have experts that will get you out of the mess asap. Here's how to get started:
  • Read Pool School to the left
  • Order a test kit, we recommend the TF 100 with xl option
  • Ask any questions you may have about Pool School or any advice you get from experts
  • Clean up the debris and keep it out until you get your test kit.
  • Get at least 5 gal of liquid chlorine. Pool Essentials if you can or just the cheapest pure bleach only you can. No additives of any kind.
  • If your pool store results are correct you got terrible advice. You have way too much CYA so your chlorine effectiveness is tremendously compromised. This was caused by tablets and shock and other chemicals that I'm sure they recommended.
  • I'll ping an expert or two to help you get started @Richard320 @Texas Splash @kimkats
  • You'll need to stay out of the pool store. If you feel the need to go just read Pool School again
Get your test kit on order asap since we can't start with pool store results. They're way too unreliable. Once you post the results you'll get expert help and you can be back to normal in days not weeks. After that, TFP bliss. Perfect pool for about $10/mo of dirt cheap chemicals.

Good luck to you!

Chris
 
Charden, welcome to TFP! :wave: The folks above nailed it - stay far away from that pool store. Simply horrible advice and it's already cost you some time and $$$. I don't understand the Baquacil addition either. You have a chlorine pool correct? Mixing the two is not good at all.

At this point, I would hold-off on doing much of anything until you get a TF-100 test kit. I would recommend the XL size and a magnetic speedstir if you can. Now before you throw your hands up in the air and go "Oh no, more money!", let me tell you this test kit will more than pay for itself in what you've dumped at the pool store. But at-home accurate testing is priority #1 right now. About the only thing I would encourage you to do for now is keep the FC elevated like you're doing right now. That's probably the only thing keeping your pool from becoming a green swamp.

Once you receive your TF-100, post a full set of results. The instructions are quite clear in the kit, but if you have ANY questions, let us now and we'll walk you through it. Not sure if you plan on closing or keeping the pool open in your area for the winter, so we'll come back to that later. Keep us posted and we'll be happy to help.
 
Hello!

Stay away from pool stores... All you need to maintain your pool chemistry is Chlorine & CYA (stabilizer). Muriatic Acid and Borax to manage PH on a periodic basis as needed.

However, I'll get the TF-100 kit first to get started in taking care of your pool. I would also get the magnetic speedstir with your kit. Once you get your kit, post all your results here and we'll help you get a handle on this.
 
I think I'd go pitch a bit of a fit at the pool store to get a refund on that Baqua product. They should know better! Adding Baqua to a chlorine pool is kin to adding ammonia to bleach (ok, ok, so not deadly like bleach and ammonia, but a mess for sure!).

Maddie :flower:
 
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From now on only use liquid chlorine. The pucks and bags of shocks are adding more CYA aka stabilizer each time you use one. Even the pool $tore says you have too much stabilizer already BUT they told you to add more by giving you the directions they did.................BAD pool $tore!

Add a jug of chlorine each evening and run your pump 24/7 for now. As soon as your test kit gets there let us know so we can get you the videos to watch. The test are east and fun to do so no worries!

Kim:kim:
 
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Thanks everyone. I will be ordering the kit and getting some liquid chlorine. The baquacil she said was to eliminate my chlorine to see if that was whats making my water cloudy. The kit looks super confusing and I don't have a Chemistry Degree lol
 
Not to fear, its an easy step by step test kit. Each chemical level you're testing has its own color coded bottles.... follow the directions by reading along as you perform test and voila! It will be a piece of cake. Just like reading a cookie recipe.

What a shame all that money spent on unnecessary products.... the pool store should be ashamed.

Maddie :flower:
 
Char,

One of the best things about TFP is that it's based on sound science. All you have to do is keep the numbers within their ranges. Many people (maybe most people) never car about anything other than keeping the numbers in the range. Our experts and others delve into the most complicated water chemistry you could imagine in our forum called "the deep end". But it's all the same science and almost anybody can be functional with it in a week or so. And you have the full backing of an army of experts to answer any question and help with anything pool. Plus there's always that great aspect that we don't sell anything. So you'll never play the pool store yo-yo again.

I started this about 5 years ago. Some of the experts advising you were the same ones that got me started. I've cared for my pool most of the time using liquid chlorine, MA and a little stabilizer. Total cost was about $10/mo and we have had a perfectly clear, never even cloudy pool the entire time. More recently I've switched to a salt pool using TFP methodology and it's now even easier.

I hope this helps and trust me you can do this!

Chris
 
charden0813 said:
So what is the need for the chlorine floater and tablets? Do they not offer any kind of efficient help in stabilizing water?
Click to expand...
They certainly have their place and can be used. They key is accurate at-home testing so that the owner knows what their current CYA level is. If the CYA can accommodate a few tabs, no problem. Vacations are a good time to use floaters/tabs.
 
Draining would be my option. However, You can exchange some water without draining.

Use a low speed sump pump in the deep end and pull water from there, while at the same time, add water in the shallow end. To do it this way, note that the water you are filling at the shallow end should be the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose at the bottom), and using a sump pump pull water from the shallow end (top).

I'll let an expert chime in here shortly to expand on this. I've never done it this way. Ive always drained my pool if my CYA was too high.
 
charden0813 said:
So what is the need for the chlorine floater and tablets? Do they not offer any kind of efficient help in stabilizing water?
Click to expand...
Chard,

As Pat mentioned I used tablets when I was on business trips. I would run at the low end of the CYA range so I could use tablets. I used pool math to keep track of how much could be used. Worked pretty well. When I was home I'd switch back to liquid chlorine. I still have some tablets that I keep in case of power failure or pump failure etc.

Chris
 
Mendy48 said:
Draining would be my option. However, You can exchange some water without draining.

Use a low speed sump pump in the deep end and pull water from there, while at the same time, add water in the shallow end. To do it this way, note that the water you are filling at the shallow end should be the same temperature or warmer than your pool water. If your fill water is much cooler than your pool water, then switch it. Add the water to the deep end (hose at the bottom), and using a sump pump pull water from the shallow end (top).

I'll let an expert chime in here shortly to expand on this. I've never done it this way. Ive always drained my pool if my CYA was too high.
Click to expand...

No Drain Water Exchange
 

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