!HELP !.. GREEN POOL FULL of YUCK and 0 Cya...

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One other thing... if you had CYA last year, where did it go? You may have an CYA to ammonia conversion on your hands. Maybe it's just because my pool has it and we've seen alot this spring, but that may be the case. If so, you might want to hold off on adding CYA/dichlor until after you know if there is ammonia or not. Adding CYA before eliminating ammonia will require more bleach/chlorine.

See It Can Happen to Anyone

I would start with bleach and check your FC/CC levels, then go from there (after adjusting pH first).
 
Lots of rain..We did a lot of vacuum to waste and back washing and I assume it also got eaten by the mysteriously hungry bacteria? but for sure it's gone we shocked with chlorine just to get rid of the frogs and chlorine is not holding. Do not know how to test for ammonia..
 
You can get a test for it at a fish store that sells aquarium supplies.
 
Ammonia situations pretty much exclusive to Inground pools. I've only seen it in one above ground pool. Bacteria from soil, perhaps rainwater runoff - is the culprit. So unless there's a way soil/rainwater runoff got into the above ground pool - you probably don't have ammonia.

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If you don't mind the hassle and expense of swapping it out, I would go back to regular sand (if it were my pool, I would).
 
I think you are right, I tested the ammonia with a water kit that I have for my aquarium and it is 0. I will probably change the zeobrite with sand eventually but if you don't mind giving me the quick reason why you personally think it's better, it would be much appreciated.
 
if you don't mind giving me the quick reason why
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I can help. The consensus on the forum is the zeosand is unpredictable. It seems some of it is good and, depending on the manufacturer, some of it contains an excessive amount of dust.

Sand is a proven product over many, many years. Seems like there are still some kinks to work out with Zeo.
 
Simply based on a client - they were one of four pools with sand filters. His had zeobrite. His pool took twice as long to clear when almost every other parameter was the same, gallonage - swamp condition - specs of pool from bottom drain, number of skimmers, etc. the pools were all so similar and his was the only one with Zeo and it took FOREVER... this is after passing OCLT.
 
All I can add here is to continue to SLAM. Make sure you are shocking at the correct level and maintain it until the pool turns blue. You don't even have to vacuum (it obviously helps), as long as you maintain shock levels, eventually the pool will clear. You can then see all the **** you need to vacuum out. If you really don't have any CYA then you don't have to use as much chlorine.
 
frustratedpoolmom said:
Simply based on a client - they were one of four pools with sand filters. His had zeobrite. His pool took twice as long to clear when almost every other parameter was the same, gallonage - swamp condition - specs of pool from bottom drain, number of skimmers, etc. the pools were all so similar and his was the only one with Zeo and it took FOREVER... this is after passing OCLT.
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Wow... that's crazy and good to know for those who want to use it! Thanks for posting that FPM! :D
 
Thank you all very much.. FPM.. I so wish you to be wrong at least until I clear this algae out .. but you are probably right.. Here's my big dilemma ( the one problem all of us newbies have that don't have a good test yet.. because we all have lo learn the hard way).
Here's what I did so far: I raised my Ph around 8.4 before adding the Dichlor ( in my neck of the woods was the cheapest source of Cya plus I got the chlorine too) I added 8 lb of dichlor ( not at the same time of course) which according to Pool Calculator raised CYA to 29ppm, and I started to shock accordingly at first (and blindly thererafter). Since I cannot test for the Cya myself:brickwall: went to LPS ( only 5 min away) and test result for Cya currently is at 40 and chlorine is at 10 ( I assume they can't even test CL over 10?? )
So now ,all I know is that my Cya is somewhere between 30-40 and Chlorine is at least 10 ( both FAC and TAC).Did 2 tests at LPS in the last 2 days and they are at least consistent ( big surprise) so I am adding chlorine to shock around 16ppm .. but after a few hours I am clueless to what's been used up and I add enough to raise it 3ppm in the second batch and 6 ppm before going to bed.
The water is not green it is bluish but VERY MILKY with no visibility.
So one of two things.. either I am not SLAM-ing accordingly , algae still alive or FPS is right and my crappy Zeobrite will take forever to filter the dead algae. Is it possible for algae to still reproduce if the chlorine is holding at 10ppm??
This is what it looks like. I have less than a foot visibility.

rsz_dsc09317.jpg

And Yes I will get the recommended Test .. But if you can be kind enough to tell me exactly which one is best ( easiest) to measure Cya and chlorine over 16ppm. For regular maintenance I still have my cheap one.
LPS recommended 12 ounces of ULTRA BRIGHT WATER CLARIFIER. Normally I would not even think of adding unnecessary stuff to the pool but If my filter is the problem could it help just this one time??
 

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I use Ultrabright a couple of times a year to catch fine particles that can only be seen at night with the lights on and it seems to do a good job.

In your case though I think I'd save my money and wait for the filter to catch it. According to the label you'd need 20oz for your pool (over half the bottle!)

I've never experienced it personally but have read here that using to much might have the opposite effect you'd expect.
 
A clarifier (ultrabright) is quite tempting. Sometimes they work miracles and sometimes they don't work at all and sometimes they gunk up your pool.

We never suggest their use because they are unpredictable and what we teach clears a pool about maybe 99% of the time.

DFW has obviously had some success using other products we would not suggest to everyone but TFP would be quite close-minded if we said, "That junk never works!".....there are times when it can and that has to be your call.
 
I make a lot of beer and wine so am particularly fond of clarifiers :) but you definitely need to know how to use them properly (and which one, especially important with a DE filter)

Ultrabright for example says it shouldn't be used with DE! I do it anyway but know I'll be deep cleaning the grids the next day (I actually have a second complete set of filter ” guts” for that purpose)

An interesting note is a lot of commercial beer is cleared with a product called polyclar that's very similar to ultrabright! Yuck! :)
 
I'm too tired to do the math but maybe someone can assist in showing how to dilute your test sample with water so that you can calculate your FC without using up a bunch of sample? How about diluting the water to use with the simple 5 drop that only goes to 5ppm? It would nice to be able to quickly see how much chlorine you have at higher shock levels and how much are you losing, without using up all your chemicals.
 
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