Thank you all very much.. FPM.. I so wish you to be wrong at least until I clear this algae out .. but you are probably right.. Here's my big dilemma ( the one problem all of us newbies have that don't have a good test yet.. because we all have lo learn the hard way).
Here's what I did so far: I raised my Ph around 8.4 before adding the Dichlor ( in my neck of the woods was the cheapest source of Cya plus I got the chlorine too) I added 8 lb of dichlor ( not at the same time of course) which according to Pool Calculator raised CYA to 29ppm, and I started to shock accordingly at first (and blindly thererafter). Since I cannot test for the Cya myself
went to LPS ( only 5 min away) and test result for Cya currently is at 40 and chlorine is at 10 ( I assume they can't even test CL over 10?? )
So now ,all I know is that my Cya is somewhere between 30-40 and Chlorine is at least 10 ( both FAC and TAC).Did 2 tests at LPS in the last 2 days and they are at least consistent ( big surprise) so I am adding chlorine to shock around 16ppm .. but after a few hours I am clueless to what's been used up and I add enough to raise it 3ppm in the second batch and 6 ppm before going to bed.
The water is not green it is bluish but VERY MILKY with no visibility.
So one of two things.. either I am not SLAM-ing accordingly , algae still alive or FPS is right and my crappy Zeobrite will take forever to filter the dead algae. Is it possible for algae to still reproduce if the chlorine is holding at 10ppm??
This is what it looks like. I have less than a foot visibility.
And Yes I will get the recommended Test .. But if you can be kind enough to tell me exactly which one is best ( easiest) to measure Cya and chlorine over 16ppm. For regular maintenance I still have my cheap one.
LPS recommended 12 ounces of ULTRA BRIGHT WATER CLARIFIER. Normally I would not even think of adding unnecessary stuff to the pool but If my filter is the problem could it help just this one time??