Here is pictures of the pool/Swamp I am dealing with. How much chlorine expected to clear it? Or should I just replace all of the water?You’ve shown pictures of your test kit comparator, how about taking a photo of your pool? Looking at the same area of the pool. In this way you can see the visual change over time. Maybe every other chlorine dosage, take a picture. You don’t have to upload here, unless you want, we love to see swamp to clear.
Help: algae bloom I can't control
- Thread starter martink
- Start date
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,813
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Did you add stabilizer to increase the CYA to 30 or not?
At low CYA levels, the chlorine will burn off fast in the sun.
You need to follow the SLAM Process to the letter.
No shortcuts.
If your CYA is less than 30, it needs to be increased to 30.
SLAM level for CYA 30 is 12 ppm FC.
Your pool didn't get algae and turn green in a day. It will take time to get it clear again.
We can't predict how much liquid chlorine it will take as each pool and algae situation is different.
Stay the course.
At the stairs, put the pool brush into the pool as deep as it goes.
Take your pics in that same location - with the brush in - seferal times daily. This will provide a visual indication of water changes.
At low CYA levels, the chlorine will burn off fast in the sun.
You need to follow the SLAM Process to the letter.
No shortcuts.
If your CYA is less than 30, it needs to be increased to 30.
SLAM level for CYA 30 is 12 ppm FC.
Your pool didn't get algae and turn green in a day. It will take time to get it clear again.
We can't predict how much liquid chlorine it will take as each pool and algae situation is different.
Stay the course.
At the stairs, put the pool brush into the pool as deep as it goes.
Take your pics in that same location - with the brush in - seferal times daily. This will provide a visual indication of water changes.
I increased CYA, and I started the SLAM yesterday at 12am. The pool was still using lots of FC even when not exposed to sunlight.
Should I run the pump the full speed, would that help?
The clarity is really bad, can't see anything under few inches. It is cloudy green. When I brush the floors, the cloudiness increases and I can see clouds of green forming
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,813
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Is the stabilizer fully dissolved?
If so, retest the CYA and report the result here.
Chlorine use at the start of the SLAM Process is high and will diminish as the chlorine kills off the algae.
Brush 2 times daily minimum in the beginning to stir eferything up and help break down the biofilm that forms on algae.
Try the brush trick near the stairs to check on progress..
If so, retest the CYA and report the result here.
Chlorine use at the start of the SLAM Process is high and will diminish as the chlorine kills off the algae.
Brush 2 times daily minimum in the beginning to stir eferything up and help break down the biofilm that forms on algae.
Try the brush trick near the stairs to check on progress..
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,019
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Test & replenish fc to slam level as often as you can to help things go more quickly.
Every couple hours is best especially at first if you can swing it. Starting on a long weekend is usually helpful so you can be around. As you gain the upper hand the fc demand will lessen.
As mentioned above, if it’s been a day since the cya was added re test to be sure you’re using the correct slam level
If the dot dissapears between two values round up.
FC/CYA Levels
Do all the things
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
We’ve seen worse be turned into a sparkling oasis so don’t worry, it will happen, it just won’t happen overnight
Every couple hours is best especially at first if you can swing it. Starting on a long weekend is usually helpful so you can be around. As you gain the upper hand the fc demand will lessen.
As mentioned above, if it’s been a day since the cya was added re test to be sure you’re using the correct slam level
If the dot dissapears between two values round up.
FC/CYA Levels
Do all the things
*Check & scrub every nook & cranny where algae may hide (light niches, steps, drain covers, ladder handrails, skimmer throats/weirs, abandoned lines, autofill, overflow drains, etc.)
*If water can go there, algae can thrive there.
*Run slam level water through all water features & lines for at least a couple hours a day during the SLAM Process.
*Brush & or vac daily (this breaks up biofilms that algae uses to protect itself from chlorine)
*Backwash/clean filter when pressure rises 25%over clean pressure.
We’ve seen worse be turned into a sparkling oasis so don’t worry, it will happen, it just won’t happen overnight
Just tested FC was at 2.5 ppm. The sun depletion is not as bad as I thought it would be. Added one gallon to raise it to 8. It is the last gallon I had and buying more now. I was using similar amount of free chlorine at night
Just tested FC at 3.5, added 1 gallon of loquid chlorine to raise it to 9.
I decided not to go to 12 to save on chlorine and increase it at night when UV is not depleting it.
I am sending these messages so I can get advice if I am doing something wrong and to record the progress
I decided not to go to 12 to save on chlorine and increase it at night when UV is not depleting it.
I am sending these messages so I can get advice if I am doing something wrong and to record the progress
- May 3, 2014
- 62,696
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
There are a lot of people here telling you to follow the process and now you are inventing your own protocol. I think you will find that troublesome.
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,019
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Raise to slam level for your cya as frequently as possible. Going under doesn’t quite cut the mustard (isn’t as effective/takes longer). Going over wastes chlorine & risks damage.
The whole premise of the S.L.A.M. (Shock Level And Maintain) process is to reach shock level & maintain that level sun or not.
The whole premise of the S.L.A.M. (Shock Level And Maintain) process is to reach shock level & maintain that level sun or not.
Ok, understood. will raise it to 12 in my next test and Maintain that till the end
- Feb 6, 2015
- 7,813
- Pool Size
- 12300
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Follow the SLAM Process - To. The. Letter.
No shortcuts.
Following the process will afford you the best change of clearing your pool in the shortest amount of time while keeping the pool and equipment safe.
No shortcuts.
Following the process will afford you the best change of clearing your pool in the shortest amount of time while keeping the pool and equipment safe.
Just added 192 oz of chlorine.
I have couple questions about FC and CC testing. In my last test FC was 5 and CC was 2. So my total chlorine was 7ppm. What is the combined chlorine? Is it the chlorine that killed the algae and became ineffective?
Also for the CYA test. The black dot get really cloudy at 30 ppm, I can still see it though, is it supposed to disappear completely?
I have couple questions about FC and CC testing. In my last test FC was 5 and CC was 2. So my total chlorine was 7ppm. What is the combined chlorine? Is it the chlorine that killed the algae and became ineffective?
Also for the CYA test. The black dot get really cloudy at 30 ppm, I can still see it though, is it supposed to disappear completely?
- Jun 1, 2018
- 16,019
- Pool Size
- 26000
- Surface
- Vinyl
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Basically yes
CC - Further Reading
www.troublefreepool.com
It should “disappear with a glance”. You shouldn’t stare looking for the dot.
It is best to do the test in bright light (outdoors on a sunny day is ideal).
If it was anywhere between 20 & 30 you call it 30 anyway. Always round up if between two values.
You added 4 tabs yesterday- have you removed those? If not you will be at a solid 30 or a bit higher once they dissolve.
Just tested FC and it was 1.5, it dropped from 12 to 1.5 in 6 hours of night time. I raised it to 12 again around 3am and will retest now (6am) and adjust as needed.
To expedite the process, can I use phosphate remover?
To expedite the process, can I use phosphate remover?
Sorry to be blunt, but TFP didn't just now invent this process. You should follow it without exception. You can manage your pool water any way you like but deviating from a process we have developed over 15 years seems illogical to me.
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No problem. I tested it this morning at 9am. FC was down but I noticed improvement in the water color. Green was lighter but still cloudy. Will keep adjusting water chlorine level. I am not at home now and will be back in couple hours. Hopefully FC will not be all gone by the time I am back.
I noticed CC is not very high everytime I test. It is within 1 to 2 ppm. Is that normal during SLAM? I thought all FC used to kill Algae will be transformed to CC so I was expecting CC to be high as well
also once all this algae mess is over. TFP does not recommend any other chemicals to be used? No algecides, phosphate remover or clarifier even as part of the regular pool maintenance?
- May 3, 2014
- 62,696
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
No reason to test CC until you are the last stage of SLAM and doing your OCLT. CC is not a primary indicator of algae. It is tied to ammonia based contaminants.
There is no need for those potions. Follow TFPC. Maintain appropriate FC based on your CYA. Manage pH. Easy.
Absolutely no need for any of that if you maintain FC/CYA Levels. The chemicals you mention are pushed by pool stores because the same pool stores recommend chronically insufficient chlorine levels. About 14 months ago I became a new pool owner, and started off with no knowledge. I was lucky to find TFP early on. With nothing more than a good test kit and liquid chlorine I made it through a sweltering Texas summer and fall (with oak tree overhanging the pool) with no issues.