Hello from Melville NY--Long Island.
- Thread starter Paulsb01
- Start date
- May 3, 2014
- 58,656
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Round your CYA up to 50. The test cannot be interpolated between lines.
The wonderful people who have ben guiding me her is my update.
OUr weekly service came yesterday and I showed the "pool guy" my readings. He had no clue and gets his instructions form the boss (Larry) who never gets on the phone let alone comes to the pool. He works by remote controlling everyone. Please note I PREPAID my chems with their CHEM PACKAGE ($400.00) for the season. I had to let them have on last try before I parted with them.
The don't use liquid chlorine as transporting it is an issue.
He took his reading (strops) added in BICARB and put 6 tablets in the chlorinator. I was told that they plan to come back on Friday (if the pool is still green) and use liquid First Aid. The pool boy had no clue what that was but the 'boss' said it works all the time.
Second note-- we've always had our pool cleared on Friday by the company 8 years now. Some how they moved us to Tuesday and I said NG. The need to move us back or we will have to part. Today as a result of staying on Tuesday and what I feel is now a semi-educated client, Larry fired me (LOL) and is sending back a check for the unused weeks of the pool chem package.
TFP Brain trust.. I'm in your hands.
This afternoon's readings:
FC: 2
pH: 7.8
TA: 80
CH: 40
CYA: 30--hooray!
This is now my first SLAM
My local Walmart has shelves full of their Chlorine. I bought 18 @ $3.77 a gallon.
I put in 4 gallons and 8 hours later the FC was up to 10.
11PM: I poured in 3 more gallons and will take full readings ( pump running overnight) in the morning and report in. ( I hope I'll see the pool bottom in the morning!)
I also bought Walmart's Clorox Stabilizer, just in case.
Thank you all!
Paul
OUr weekly service came yesterday and I showed the "pool guy" my readings. He had no clue and gets his instructions form the boss (Larry) who never gets on the phone let alone comes to the pool. He works by remote controlling everyone. Please note I PREPAID my chems with their CHEM PACKAGE ($400.00) for the season. I had to let them have on last try before I parted with them.
The don't use liquid chlorine as transporting it is an issue.
He took his reading (strops) added in BICARB and put 6 tablets in the chlorinator. I was told that they plan to come back on Friday (if the pool is still green) and use liquid First Aid. The pool boy had no clue what that was but the 'boss' said it works all the time.
Second note-- we've always had our pool cleared on Friday by the company 8 years now. Some how they moved us to Tuesday and I said NG. The need to move us back or we will have to part. Today as a result of staying on Tuesday and what I feel is now a semi-educated client, Larry fired me (LOL) and is sending back a check for the unused weeks of the pool chem package.
TFP Brain trust.. I'm in your hands.
This afternoon's readings:
FC: 2
pH: 7.8
TA: 80
CH: 40
CYA: 30--hooray!
This is now my first SLAM
My local Walmart has shelves full of their Chlorine. I bought 18 @ $3.77 a gallon.
I put in 4 gallons and 8 hours later the FC was up to 10.
11PM: I poured in 3 more gallons and will take full readings ( pump running overnight) in the morning and report in. ( I hope I'll see the pool bottom in the morning!)
I also bought Walmart's Clorox Stabilizer, just in case.
Thank you all!
Paul
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Glad you didn't add that First Aid junk. It's always amazing how little these pool techs really know. By chance did you lower your pH before starting the SLAM Process? If not, and if your FC is below 10 this morning, use your muriatic acid first to lower the pH to about 7.2 before increasing the FC back to 12 for your SLAM. Good luck!
Hey Pauls !!! Just wanted to point out that Marty and Pat above have helped folks a combined (almost) 70k times. They’ve helped more people clear swamps each week then your pool company does all season. When it comes to maintaining, they’ve helped a similar # keep it clear on the cheap, with far superior results, and for FREE. Check out this thread to see what the program can do for you. These are regular folks pools that are brochure quality for very little effort/expense. We got you. 
www.troublefreepool.com
How Clear is TFP Clear? Let's See (Pics Only Please).
How clear should my water be? A very common question. Here is mine on a calm morning where I could finally vacuum. Yes I know, I'm still manually vacuuming. It took me 7 years to finally get an SWG, I'm working on a robot. :) So now let's see your water clarity.
www.troublefreepool.com
Thanks guys.
Strange results this morning. My CL and FC was a red that was beyond the scale on the camparictor I’m guessing the FC number is much higher PH is high for sure pool is still green I’m out of cYA reagent I’ll pick up more and the PH down , clean the filter and take a reading after the sun comes out Do I add more bleach now or do I wait till I take this next reading probably four or five hours from now. Keep in mind that the last chlorine and it was 11 PM last night and it’s now 7 AM
Strange results this morning. My CL and FC was a red that was beyond the scale on the camparictor I’m guessing the FC number is much higher PH is high for sure pool is still green I’m out of cYA reagent I’ll pick up more and the PH down , clean the filter and take a reading after the sun comes out Do I add more bleach now or do I wait till I take this next reading probably four or five hours from now. Keep in mind that the last chlorine and it was 11 PM last night and it’s now 7 AM
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,624
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
BTW. You should not be measuring your FC on the block that measures your pH. Use that block for ONLY measuring pH.
You measure FC using the powder and drops 0870 and 0871. Use the vial marked Chlorine only. Fill to 10ml. Put heaping spoon of powder in. Mix. Drop 0871 until solution is clear. Divide by 2 that is your FC.
Did you get a SpeedStir? If not order one, life will be better.
Your target FC level is 16. Get it there and keep it there.
You measure FC using the powder and drops 0870 and 0871. Use the vial marked Chlorine only. Fill to 10ml. Put heaping spoon of powder in. Mix. Drop 0871 until solution is clear. Divide by 2 that is your FC.
Did you get a SpeedStir? If not order one, life will be better.
Your target FC level is 16. Get it there and keep it there.
FC at or over 10 will give false high PH readings. You may be chasing your tail. GREAT job keeping FC up. Pay no mind to the rest of them until the SLaM is over.
Lskul60
Well-known member
I'm a little late to this convo, but Paul....
Your pool is not 60x40. 40k gallons. It's way smaller.
The pics of your pool look like it's about 16 feet wide. I am basing this on the 1 foot square tiles as a reference. also, the size of a standard size hammock and the ladder.
Also, a 60x40 would be about 100k gallons.
Please check your measurements and report back.
Your pool is not 60x40. 40k gallons. It's way smaller.
The pics of your pool look like it's about 16 feet wide. I am basing this on the 1 foot square tiles as a reference. also, the size of a standard size hammock and the ladder.
Also, a 60x40 would be about 100k gallons.
Please check your measurements and report back.
Last edited:
Lskul60
Well-known member
how come your FC always equals your CC ? At best it should equal TC, not CC.
your last reading would suggest FC = 20.5, CC=20.5, TC = 41.0,
cannot be
your last reading would suggest FC = 20.5, CC=20.5, TC = 41.0,
cannot be
Last edited:
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
Probably just a typo.... let's hope.
Ha. Hey Paul, just focus on the FC testing for now. No need to waste reagents on the others until after the SLAM. Once or twice a day you can check CC if you want, and save the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test for last. Keep up the great work.
Lskul60
Well-known member
That's what i figured too, but wanted to point out.Probably just a typo.... let's hope.
what about the stated volume at 60k gallons. Did you see my other comment?
- Jun 22, 2014
- 47,939
- Pool Size
- 17888
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- CircuPool RJ-45 Plus
I did. I'll let Paul double check his numbers and get back with us.
I measured it fully any our attention right.
we are about 30k gallons. 16x 40.
we are about 30k gallons. 16x 40.
Lskul60
Well-known member
thought so.
should adjust your pool math app. as you may have been making additions at 2x
New update. Friday morning. I met a new pool service company it is a one-man operation with loads and loads of experience. He builds pools too. Very communicative. Very hands-on. Uses liquid chemical testing. And he understands using chlorine bleach. Great communication skills, answers the phone, does the work himself. My wife and I met him we couldn’t be happier taking him on.
CYA is still too high so are we drain the pool again another 25 inches out this time.
craig ( pool man) said get the CYA to anything g Under 30. Even zero is fine. If you could full drain it would okay. But physically without a prop beam to hold the walls don’t empty it.
Once the CYA is under 30. I’ll come back and between us make a plan. Equalize PH, increase calcium Hardness, treat what left of the now lighter green and get swimming.
CYA is still too high so are we drain the pool again another 25 inches out this time.
craig ( pool man) said get the CYA to anything g Under 30. Even zero is fine. If you could full drain it would okay. But physically without a prop beam to hold the walls don’t empty it.
Once the CYA is under 30. I’ll come back and between us make a plan. Equalize PH, increase calcium Hardness, treat what left of the now lighter green and get swimming.
Katodude
Silver Supporter
- Aug 22, 2017
- 2,624
- Pool Size
- 15000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Hayward Aqua Rite (T-15)
Well…..
I dont like your guy already. Under 30 is probably not fine, and 0 definately not fine. Also in a vinyl pool CH is not very important.
But, its your pool do what you want. However, worth noting that mixing and match advice generally does not work.
I dont like your guy already. Under 30 is probably not fine, and 0 definately not fine. Also in a vinyl pool CH is not very important.
But, its your pool do what you want. However, worth noting that mixing and match advice generally does not work.
Paul - Welcome to the forum. I'm 10 minutes east of you. Ocean State Job Lot on Jericho Tnpk in East Northport usually has liquid chlorine at 12.5%. That is where I purchased mine. When I bought my house with a pool, I inherited the pool company from the prior owners. I watched them and paid them the first year and they didn't do much for the money I was paying them. I joined this forum and did a lot of reading. The second year, I fired the pool company and have done everything myself ever since. It's been 7 years since then and my pool has been pristine ever since.
Couple key things you should be aware of if you're going to start this journey and do it correctly:
Number 1 is testing your own water with a proper test kit. Don't trust other's tests. Period. Don't mix and match advice. You're either going to follow the main tenets outlined here or you're going to do your own thing. Jumping around from one approach to another is only going to set you back and confuse your program for water management. You'll need to figure out which avenue you're going to go down. We can help anyone who is willing to listen and follow the protocols.
Number 2 is chlorination and chemicals. We only want to add what the water needs. Your testing will tell you what the water needs. Right now, it seems you need chlorine, and lots of it. You need to maintain SLAM as religiously as possible until all 3 criteria are met. You should also be brushing, vacuuming, and cleaning your filter regularly to expedite the process of removing the algae. Adding pucks is going to raise your CYA. As others have indicated, with a FC reading over 10, your PH reading is no longer valid. No need to test for that during a SLAM. If you keep your FC high enough for your CYA level, everything else is easy. Leslie's recommendation of FC level between 1 and 4 is wrong. CYA matters and is key to the proper management of pool sanitation.
Number 3 is the question of who is going to manage the pool. If you're giving the pool guy the responsibility (and a considerable amount of money), then you're not going to be able to manage the pool using the advice here. He's going to add what he wants, and do what he thinks is best. You have a good test kit, and you have extremely talented and experienced people here willing to assist you and guide you. You'll need to choose the correct path that works for you right now. If you don't have the time or the patience to read, learn and follow the expert recommendations provided on this forum...that is OK. Just know that we'll be here for you if the new pool service doesn't work out.
Number 4 is pool opening and closing. I close my pool in late October and open in early April. Why? When pool water temps get above 60 deg F, algae can grow more easily. If you wait until memorial day to open the pool, your water temp is likely in the 70s. I open to a clear pool every season, as do most folks here who close late and open early.
This isn't rocket science, and I can tell you from experience that I have never found a nicer, more helpful bunch of people on the internet than those you will find here on this forum. There are lots of other tips here that you will discover if you read enough and take the time to learn. Good luck with whatever approach you choose.
Couple key things you should be aware of if you're going to start this journey and do it correctly:
Number 1 is testing your own water with a proper test kit. Don't trust other's tests. Period. Don't mix and match advice. You're either going to follow the main tenets outlined here or you're going to do your own thing. Jumping around from one approach to another is only going to set you back and confuse your program for water management. You'll need to figure out which avenue you're going to go down. We can help anyone who is willing to listen and follow the protocols.
Number 2 is chlorination and chemicals. We only want to add what the water needs. Your testing will tell you what the water needs. Right now, it seems you need chlorine, and lots of it. You need to maintain SLAM as religiously as possible until all 3 criteria are met. You should also be brushing, vacuuming, and cleaning your filter regularly to expedite the process of removing the algae. Adding pucks is going to raise your CYA. As others have indicated, with a FC reading over 10, your PH reading is no longer valid. No need to test for that during a SLAM. If you keep your FC high enough for your CYA level, everything else is easy. Leslie's recommendation of FC level between 1 and 4 is wrong. CYA matters and is key to the proper management of pool sanitation.
Number 3 is the question of who is going to manage the pool. If you're giving the pool guy the responsibility (and a considerable amount of money), then you're not going to be able to manage the pool using the advice here. He's going to add what he wants, and do what he thinks is best. You have a good test kit, and you have extremely talented and experienced people here willing to assist you and guide you. You'll need to choose the correct path that works for you right now. If you don't have the time or the patience to read, learn and follow the expert recommendations provided on this forum...that is OK. Just know that we'll be here for you if the new pool service doesn't work out.
Number 4 is pool opening and closing. I close my pool in late October and open in early April. Why? When pool water temps get above 60 deg F, algae can grow more easily. If you wait until memorial day to open the pool, your water temp is likely in the 70s. I open to a clear pool every season, as do most folks here who close late and open early.
This isn't rocket science, and I can tell you from experience that I have never found a nicer, more helpful bunch of people on the internet than those you will find here on this forum. There are lots of other tips here that you will discover if you read enough and take the time to learn. Good luck with whatever approach you choose.
Last edited: