Hello from Melville NY--Long Island.

craig ( pool man) said get the CYA to anything g Under 30. Even zero is fine
Well, yes, if he is planning on immediately adding back to 30. It’s super easy and relatively cheap if you overdrain, and starting from scratch if you under drain and have to drain lots of your fresh water to get more of the old water out.

well, no if he was planning on leaving the CYA well under 30 after draining. But I suspect it was option 1 and he wasn’t worried about $20 in CYA if you overshot the drain.
 
Paul - Welcome to the forum. I'm 10 minutes east of you. Ocean State Job Lot on Jericho Tnpk in East Northport usually has liquid chlorine at 12.5%. That is where I purchased mine. When I bought my house with a pool, I inherited the pool company from the prior owners. I watched them and paid them the first year and they didn't do much for the money I was paying them. I joined this forum and did a lot of reading. The second year, I fired the pool company and have done everything myself ever since. It's been 7 years since then and my pool has been pristine ever since.

Couple key things you should be aware of if you're going to start this journey and do it correctly:

Number 1 is testing your own water with a proper test kit. Don't trust other's tests. Period. Don't mix and match advice. You're either going to follow the main tenets outlined here or you're going to do your own thing. Jumping around from one approach to another is only going to set you back and confuse your program for water management. You'll need to figure out which avenue you're going to go down. We can help anyone who is willing to listen and follow the protocols.

Number 2 is chlorination and chemicals. We only want to add what the water needs. Your testing will tell you what the water needs. Right now, it seems you need chlorine, and lots of it. You need to maintain SLAM as religiously as possible until all 3 criteria are met. You should also be brushing, vacuuming, and cleaning your filter regularly to expedite the process of removing the algae. Adding pucks is going to raise your CYA. As others have indicated, with a FC reading over 10, your PH reading is no longer valid. No need to test for that during a SLAM. If you keep your FC high enough for your CYA level, everything else is easy. Leslie's recommendation of FC level between 1 and 4 is wrong. CYA matters and is key to the proper management of proper pool sanitation.

Number 3 is the question of who is going to manage the pool. If you're giving the pool guy the responsibility (and a considerable amount of money), then you're not going to be able to manage the pool using the advice here. He's going to add what he wants, and do what he thinks is best. You have a good test kit, and you have extremely talented and experienced people here willing to assist you and guide you. You'll need to choose the correct path that works for you right now. If you don't have the time or the patience to read, learn and follow the expert recommendations provided on this forum...that is OK. Just know that we'll be here for you if the new pool service doesn't work out.

Number 4 is pool opening and closing. I close my pool in late October and open in early April. Why? When pool water temps get above 60 deg F, algae can grow more easily. If you wait until memorial day to open the pool, your water temp is likely in the 70s. I open to a clear pool every season, as do most folks here who close late and open early.

This isn't rocket science, and I can tell you from experience that I have never found a nicer, more helpful bunch of people on the internet than those you will find here on this forum. There are lots of other tips here that you will discover if you read enough and take the time to learn. Good luck with whatever approach you choose.
Thank you much. You sum it up so well. I’m getting chlorine at Walmart. 3.77 a gallon. 10%.
I’ll check out ocean state.

questions: what do you do when you go away for a week or two.?

what about adding in a liquid chhlorinator?

or as the pool guy suggested switching to salt?
 
Thank you much. You sum it up so well. I’m getting chlorine at Walmart. 3.77 a gallon. 10%.
I’ll check out ocean state.

questions: what do you do when you go away for a week or two.?

what about adding in a liquid chhlorinator?

or as the pool guy suggested switching to salt?
I have a Stenner pump that feeds liquid chlorine into the return line after the heater. The tank holds 15 gallons, which lasts about a month. The pump is controlled by an electronic timer that comes on 3 times a day for about 15 minutes each time. This adds about an ounce of chlorine per minute of operation using the #2 pump head tubing size.

Both of my neighbors have salt water chlorine generators, and this can be a very easy and effective way to add chlorine to your pool as well. If you do get one, it is best to oversize it so that you don't need to run the pump so long to keep your FC levels where you need them. The SWCG units are not cheap initial investments, but they can make maintaining your FC simple. They won't help with a SLAM though.

If your CYA levels are low or moderate, you can still use a puck style or floating chlorinator for the periods when you go away. I have two floating chlorinators in my pool right now since I am slowly trying to raise my CYA a little bit. Just be aware that your CYA will rise, and you'll need to adjust your target FC upwards to match.
 
This is Sta-Rite Stacy. I moved Heaven and earth to aquire her first. No unprecedented shortages were going to keep us apart Now I just hafta build a pool for her. Pffffft. Silly little details at this point. 7746FDA3-41C9-4BAB-8426-42FB88AB0EB6.jpeg
 
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Keep at it.
The old saying around here is "the pool didn't turn green overnight, and it probably won't get fixed overnight either."

What you should see is a gradual reversal of the greenish tint. As your vacuuming and filter system removes all of the dead algae that the chlorine is killing, the cloudiness will also start to diminish. Then one day, the pool looks like a normal color and is clear, but even then you need to keep your FC up until you pass the overnight chlorine loss test. Once that passes, you can let the FC levels drift down to your target level on the FC/CYA chart.

Then it's just regular maintenance.
 
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I had 8+ years on my originals and going strong without spares. I’m hoping to achieve similar again. 🤞
 
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Mine got hosed off once after filtering out all the off season silt, once again a few weeks later when the pollen was all done and at the end of the year I gave them a 24 Hour MA bath (50:1) and stored them dry in the garage for next year. I did not have a problem with metals or oils but I advise for anybody else to give them a TSP bath before the MA bath.

When we sold the house they were as tight-y white-y white as the day they were new, but I imagine the bands are gonna go at some point. That’s *their* problem one of these days. Lol.

I never saw the pressure rise enough to warrant the hosings, but did it anyway just because.
 
OK everybody what’s the next step in my slam.
Three more water get the CYA down even further? Or do I add more chlorine first.? The color of green is definitely lighter than it’s been. I can see maybe 2 feet down to the aqua bot. It’s certainly an improvement. The numbers are below. Thank you all for your help.
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Even when reading the slam instructions I am not sure which to do first. Being so many things that are out of whack. I know the chlorine has to be increased to a level of 20, but others saying that I should get the CYA down first. which is my next step according to your suggestion.? Thanks.
 
You show your CYA is 50. That is fine. Follow the SLAM Process. It is well spelled out in the article.
Raise your FC to 20 ppm and maintain at that level by testing and adding chlorine at least 3-4 times per day.
Brush and vac your pool each day.
Once the pool water is crystal clear, do the Overnight Chlorine Loss Test
 
Couldn't hurt to attend the SLAM discussion today at 5PM EDT:
 

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