Heater replacement - advice needed

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Sounds like the guy who will be hooking up the gas won’t be available until 6/3 anyway, so I have some time to work it out. :)
 
Got the electrical switch swapped out and a new exterior face plate put on the box. Ran new line and replaced the flex conduit on the end of the rigid that was there as it probably was too short and looked old anyway.

Just need to wait for tomorrow so the pool guy can hook up the gas - then we can move the old unit out of the way, get the new unit in place, and start figuring out the best way to run the electrical and plumbing.

I'm assuming the conduit shouldn't run across the top of the side of the heater, right? That seems like a bad idea from a don't-fry-your-conduit-and-electrical-cable standpoint. Should be safe to run it across the side of the heater under the plumbing intake, yes?
 
Gas on the new heater is installed and it is in place. Now I just need to hook up the electrical and the plumbing.

The new conduit is long enough to dip down to the ground and then back up the side of the heater, so that's what we'll do with it. For the plumbing - the guy who hooked up the gas pointed out I didn't use pressure rated fittings with the sweep 90s I had put in, so I will be getting pressure fitted ones and replacing that section. Glad I installed the union so I can just take it off there. :)

Looks like I will want a new 2" elbow and 1-1/2" to 2" converter for the part going into the heater. (Maybe I'll get some 45 degree elbows if I can find them in pressure fittings and just replace all of it from the filter. If so I will need another 90 for what's coming off the filter.) For the return from the heater to the pool I will need another 2" elbow and 1-1/2" to 2" converter, and then two elbows. One union for the connection to the return pipes near the concrete. (I'll just scrap the other union as it won't be needed with the union to the heater already being right there - I just had that to swap in my inline chlorinator that was removed as it was leaking, but instead I'll toss that and use tabs in floaters if I need to go away for a week or so.) I have a bunch of 1-1/2" pipe left over from previous work, so altogether I will need:

Easy option:
- 2" elbow (2) (either street elbows or get some 2" pipe to go into the union for the heater)
- 1-1/2" to 2" converter (2)
- 1-1/2" elbow (2)
- 1-1/2" union

Harder option:
- 2" elbow (either street elbows or get some 2" pipe to go into the union for the heater)
- 2" 45 degree elbow (note above RE: street elbow)
- 1-1/2" 45 degree elbow
- 1-1/2" to 2" converter (2)
- 1-1/2" elbow (2)
- 1-1/2" union

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Just found this, so I guess I won't worry about sweep 90s. :) Will just use normal 90s everywhere.

duraleigh said:
I think the long sweeps look really cool but, over and over, mas985 (our hydraulics expert), has been telling us that the head loss saved over regular 90's is minuscule and simply not worth considering.
Click to expand...
 
So my pH is in the 7's (around 7.2 - 7.4, not raising over time, a little odd since my TA is 70, but perhaps that's my pool's equilibrium), but my CIS is severely negative, about -1.22, as my CH is only about 80. Vinyl liner so I haven't worried about it - do I need to worry about negative CSI with a heater that works?
 

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